• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Sprocket Puller 73 WR250

Gord

Gord

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi folks. Does anyone here have an extra proper sprocket puller for my 73 WR250, they would be willing to sell? Or maybe someone here makes them up for others, or can point me in the right direction to get one? Having great difficulty removing my sprocket for some reason. It hasn't been on there that long, but still refuses to come off.
Thanks
 
Standard 3 Jaw Puller. Not working well. I'm almost positive it is tapered, but can't remember. Tech Reference doesn't show it well. I lose track between bikes.
 
No splines seen , tapered . On my old 71 400 never had a special puller for the sprocket . There is a holder for the sprocket to take the nut off and retighten . I've used both 2 and 3 arm pullers before to get that sprocket off . Tighten the puller and give the bolt of the puller a sharp quick rap with a hammer , that sharp crack just might pop it off . I just used that trick on a maico ignition rotor , a brass one for points , no damage . What it does is when the puller is tight , the threads are tight and by hitting the bolt the bolt can move quick enough to separate the sprocket from the taper . You shouldn't have to beat it to death , just a good sharp hit . If it doesn't come off the first time , tighten the puller a little more and try hitting the puller bolt again . When it pops it will probably end up on the floor .
 
had one on here in the classifieds but no takers..had to sell on the bay...actually just sold! not sure if they are reproduced or not
 
I'm sorry. I thought you wanted a picture of the puller justintendo and Richard were talking about. The picture I posted is what I'm trying to find.
My 3 jaw puller is difficult to keep on the sprocket. It's hard to tighten the bolt without having one or more jaws slip off.
 
I've had success with a 2 arm puller , I would tighten to just before the arms seemed to start slipping and give the bolt a sharp hit with a hammer . That would usually separate the parts . The puller you pictured , do the arms adjust or are they mixed ?
 
ct cr430 said:
I've had success with a 2 arm puller , I would tighten to just before the arms seemed to start slipping and give the bolt a sharp hit with a hammer . That would usually separate the parts . The puller you pictured , do the arms adjust or are they mixed ?
Click to expand...
the puller picture is factory tool, and is similar to the crank gear puller. the puller jaws slide out the sides so yes it is adjustable width wise, and its how the tool fits in tight places. as it can be "built" into a tight place..
the puller jaws kind of look like a lincoln log..
 
Gord said:
View attachment 65398
Click to expand...

That's the factory puller I just sold on ebay...it went for $48 including shipping.
They work well, the 2 jaws do NOT slip off the sprocket.
Important! always use the factory sprocket holder, or a braced gear holder such as a Motion Pro, to hold the sprocket from turning when loosening or tightening the lh thread nut. Keep the trans in neutral.
NEVER try to keep the sprocket from turning by putting the bike in gear. Bad things will happen...
 
Here are the flywheel and sprocket holders for the 4 speed and early 5 speed bikes as well as the special "combination wrench". I just helped Mike out with some of these tools as well as a puller in the resto section with his 73 450WR. Check it out

IMG_6909.JPG
 
On keeping the puller on the sprocket, put a hose clamp around the puller to hold it on the teeth of the sprocket.
Sometimes have to heat the sprocket with a torch, try not to heat shaft.
Have had them on so tight just wouldn't budge left the puller on. Went home for the night came in next day found the sprocket and puller were stuck in the wall.
Some take a lot of pressure.
Be careful.
Have some new puller legs, and some early flywheel holders.
Later George
 
If you don't want to hassle with the stuck sprocket and sprocket pullers and heat torch in the future you can change the sprocket shaft out to the 5 spd SPLINED shaft.
 
Just found this , check out husky club news letters issue 1 in the vintage tech section . There is a service bulletin about the tapered sprocket you may find interesting if you haven't seen it yet .it talks about bad sprockets etc . Good luck .
 
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