• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc Splitting the Case of a 2010 wr300

LBBKserg

LBBKserg

Husqvarna
A Class
So ended up with this husky and its been having this problem http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2010-husqvarna-wr-300-pushrod-breaking-clutch-problems.87805/ don'T know what too do with it and now I'm going to attempt to split the lower end and examine all the parts/look for worn bearings ect. I have never split a dirt bike case, any tips on what tools to buy to be able to apart the bottom end easily and on what components too look at for wear.

Will be updating with pictures of everything!
 
LBBKserg said:
thanks was looking at one of those, anyone know where i can get torque specs for bolts? and a good digital torque wrench/ size good for working on dirt bikes
Click to expand...
you will need a crank puller/installer as well when it comes time to reassemble. the tusk brand one will work too..
im not personally a fan of digital torque wrenches, but i like the split beam style. cdi torque products makes a good product for the money, i guess it depends on what you want to spend. they make some snap on wrenches but buying the cdi brand saves a good chunk of money.
 
well washed it down and getting ready to pull the engine out image1 (2).jpeg
what do you guys use for gaskets on the side covers oem, or some type of gasket maker and what kind.

IMG_6555.JPG
like on this side cover.
Also what are the two side covers called on each side of the top cylinder, and do I unscrew the bolts inside them to take the top end off or just the four bigger bolts outside the case? thanks everyone going to be pretty much ordering a whole tool kit for working on dirtbike here before the week ends.
 
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LBBKserg said:
well washed it down and getting ready to pull the engine out View attachment 83661
what do you guys use for gaskets on the side covers oem, or some type of gasket maker and what kind.

View attachment 83662
like on this side cover.
Also what are the two side covers called on each side of the top cylinder, and do I unscrew the bolts inside them to take the top end off or just the four bigger bolts outside the case? thanks everyone going to be pretty much ordering a whole tool kit for working on dirtbike here before the week ends.
Click to expand...
I ordered whatever OEM gaskets that were originally on each side. Those are power valve linkage assemblies. I left the right side one pretty much alone (just cleaned it with some solvent), and only uncoupled the linkage arm on the lefthand side when I rebuilt my topend.
 
okay finally an update got the fly wheel puller so I was able to pull the engine off!IMG_6592.JPG
IMG_6616.JPG
tools I bought:
flywheel puller
seal puller
tusk crank installer/puller
tusk case splitter
motion pro gear jammer
motion pro clutch holder
permatex engine assembly lube
liqui moly installation paste
oem gasket kit

IMG_6593.JPGIMG_6594.JPG
time to pull out the clutch components..
 
IMG_6600.JPG
clutch cover off
(noticed chunk off of basket missing(on the right outer teeth) is that a bad problem?) the rest of the basket looks great tho.
IMG_6601.JPG
oem plates and rekluse out;)
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clutch hub out
 
IMG_6604.JPG
basket is out.
IMG_6605.JPG
left top gear is out
IMG_6615.JPG
right gear that sits on the kick starter sleeve gear is out.
IMG_6609.JPG
it appears it has some wear against the kick starter sleeve gear should I have them replaced?

that's as far as I got for today talked to mr.crankshaft quoted a $199.99 for my crank to be rebuild, as for the bearings/seals that goes with a bottom end rebuild does anyone know the part numbers for them?

I randomly found someone on instagram and clicked on their profile and found a picture saying "figured out why my pushrod kept breaking, because the transmission bearing was bad" most random place to find someone with the same problem finally after searching/calling everywhere, so hope that is my problem.
I might aswell rebuild the whole bottom end even though the plan was to get rid of the bike before I had to do that.. looks like I might own it for one more season, haha
 
rancher1 said:
Where are you at in washington ?
Click to expand...

vancouver, how about you?

IMG_6618.JPG
took the clutch case off
IMG_6619.JPG
using the gear jammer to get this bolt on the gear off
IMG_6620.JPG
bolt is off the gear
IMG_6623.JPG

taking the kick starter bolt off and getting ready to use the tusk case splitter.
 
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