HUSKYnXJnWI
Husqvarna
AA Class
Ok just thought I'd share some spark plug/ cap info:
I had the cr8b in the bike stock and it did fine- however seemed to collect more carbon over time- Admittedly, my bike was also running a bit rich- until I tuned it with Ibeat- in early June 10'. I used 2 CR8B over a 8 month period and then switched to the cr8eix. That ran cleaner longer. To run it you have to screw on a terminal nut which is not included- type of contact to the cap. These can be found in any hardware store- or you may have some lying around. The CreEix has worked great- much better based on my experience with the Cr8eb. I had purchased the CR8EIB-10 also. It comes with the correct permanent terminal - just like the Cr8b. It was reported to be slightly deeper than the Cr8b or Cr8eix. Good bad or no effect.
I started having a spark jump to the cylinder from the cap near the center once in a while. I actually could see it in daylight. It was intermittent however. This indicates the cap developed a "carbon trail". SO I figured I'd explore new caps.
You can purchase the caps for removable terminal nut( or stud) and solid terminal nut spark plugs- Stock is “solid terminal nut” . For those that don’t know- the caps and the coil have screws that screw into the spark plug wires- its not magically connected just screwed in- and can be yanked out if not careful when removing the cap from the plug. For this you can cut ¼” off that end and re-screw in the wire to get a good connection again.
For Refferance:
Thread I first heard about the CR8EIB-10
NGK Racing Spark Pulg Wires w/Cap
NGK Spark Plug Cap guide
So you can convert to use CR8EIX and run the correct cap with it without using the “removable terminal nut” by ordering a cap made for that such.
Or you can replace the wire and cap and buy the “racing wire and cap” for either.
I bought the racing wire cap for the terminal nut or solid terminal- which works exactly and (although red in color) looks exactly the same as the stock cap. The wire however appears of better quality and made from silicone. The- which is for the terminal studs (threaded ends). I So I can switch to the caps and use CR8Eix and use this cap without worrying about those removable terminals loosening or anything.
I am currently running the CREIB-10 (RMZ450 plug) without issue with the NGK Racing Wire and cap part # CR3, stock #8089. I ran the bike 12miles yesterday in tight single track- no issues. That spark plug works fine in this bike and also works with the stock set up without any messing around. I will inspect to ensure the carbon is not building up on the threads if it actually even goes deep enough to expose threads to the inside of the cylinder. That could effect removal if left on for extended periods of time- not sure yet if that’s an issue. Also could potentially expose the tip to more heat- which in theory could keep the tip cleaner or melt the tip. But again very very small difference between the depth of the CREix and the CREIB-10.
If you want to stick with the CREIX- and need to change caps- I’d recommend the “NGK racing wire and cap” or NGK cap for that terminal. Which would be “Stock #CR3 Part# 8083” and/or “Part #SD05F Stock #8022” respectively.
Just thought I’d share a sudden compulsion of information on spark plugs and caps. IN reference to spark in general here’s what I did to ensure my coil was working properly-
Good Sparking
,
B
EDIT NOTE**** DO not get the plastic caps (SD05F) the plastic caps don't fit into the spark plug cavity- stick with the Racing wire and caps.
I had the cr8b in the bike stock and it did fine- however seemed to collect more carbon over time- Admittedly, my bike was also running a bit rich- until I tuned it with Ibeat- in early June 10'. I used 2 CR8B over a 8 month period and then switched to the cr8eix. That ran cleaner longer. To run it you have to screw on a terminal nut which is not included- type of contact to the cap. These can be found in any hardware store- or you may have some lying around. The CreEix has worked great- much better based on my experience with the Cr8eb. I had purchased the CR8EIB-10 also. It comes with the correct permanent terminal - just like the Cr8b. It was reported to be slightly deeper than the Cr8b or Cr8eix. Good bad or no effect.
I started having a spark jump to the cylinder from the cap near the center once in a while. I actually could see it in daylight. It was intermittent however. This indicates the cap developed a "carbon trail". SO I figured I'd explore new caps.
You can purchase the caps for removable terminal nut( or stud) and solid terminal nut spark plugs- Stock is “solid terminal nut” . For those that don’t know- the caps and the coil have screws that screw into the spark plug wires- its not magically connected just screwed in- and can be yanked out if not careful when removing the cap from the plug. For this you can cut ¼” off that end and re-screw in the wire to get a good connection again.
For Refferance:
Thread I first heard about the CR8EIB-10
NGK Racing Spark Pulg Wires w/Cap
NGK Spark Plug Cap guide
So you can convert to use CR8EIX and run the correct cap with it without using the “removable terminal nut” by ordering a cap made for that such.
Or you can replace the wire and cap and buy the “racing wire and cap” for either.
I bought the racing wire cap for the terminal nut or solid terminal- which works exactly and (although red in color) looks exactly the same as the stock cap. The wire however appears of better quality and made from silicone. The- which is for the terminal studs (threaded ends). I So I can switch to the caps and use CR8Eix and use this cap without worrying about those removable terminals loosening or anything.
I am currently running the CREIB-10 (RMZ450 plug) without issue with the NGK Racing Wire and cap part # CR3, stock #8089. I ran the bike 12miles yesterday in tight single track- no issues. That spark plug works fine in this bike and also works with the stock set up without any messing around. I will inspect to ensure the carbon is not building up on the threads if it actually even goes deep enough to expose threads to the inside of the cylinder. That could effect removal if left on for extended periods of time- not sure yet if that’s an issue. Also could potentially expose the tip to more heat- which in theory could keep the tip cleaner or melt the tip. But again very very small difference between the depth of the CREix and the CREIB-10.
If you want to stick with the CREIX- and need to change caps- I’d recommend the “NGK racing wire and cap” or NGK cap for that terminal. Which would be “Stock #CR3 Part# 8083” and/or “Part #SD05F Stock #8022” respectively.
Just thought I’d share a sudden compulsion of information on spark plugs and caps. IN reference to spark in general here’s what I did to ensure my coil was working properly-
Good Sparking
,B
EDIT NOTE**** DO not get the plastic caps (SD05F) the plastic caps don't fit into the spark plug cavity- stick with the Racing wire and caps.
