Some TE310 questions

[WbCherry]

Just picked up an 09 TE310 with a few armor additions.
The bike feels perfect for me, and what I'd like to do. I'm 5'8", 135 lbs - a fan of light bikes.
Coming from a Kawi Versys, I'm very pleased. I intend to commute lightly to grad school (13 miles each way, 45-50 mph), and try to break my collarbone in a semi-remote forest.

(I have no idea what single track, hare scramble, or the rest or those acronyms mean. Please dont use them or explain them. I don't really care - I think its silly. Just wanna ride the thing.)

My questions:
1) i plan to use a 15t for the street, swapped with 13t or so when I want to get dirty. Some say a 16t will fit. Is that true?

2) Can anyone help with rear/front sprocket combos that work at the same chain length? Master links make me sad.

3) Does the stock stator have the guts for a TrailTech X2 HID at 70 watts? This 35w headlight business is disappointing.

4) Is the MotorSportz kickstand made of steel or aluminum? Do they offer a pre-shortened version?

5) why is the key shaped like an IntraUterine contraceptive for a midget?

6) Any way at all to beef the rear subframe? I carry lots of heavy books because I wanna be smert.

7) I wear Aerostich Combat Tourings. Will my feet twist completely off?

8) ???????

9) PROFIT!


Thanks.

 

[ghte]

Mate I do not appreciate question 5.

 

[Sven]

You silly!

 

[glangston]

I'm pretty sure the stator is around 200 watts rating, so enough for what you proposed.

 

[WbCherry]

Reference for the "pretty sure" ?

I also have a spare rear shock spring, if anyone is interested. It came from the seller, still sealed in the box. Not sure if it's aftermarket - he was about 200 lbs.

Does anyone know the axle diameter, width, spacers, etc? A friend of mine has a few dozen wheels...to make a motard set for me.



You heard it here first : I'm putting oil coolers in front of the radiators, plumbed to the valvetrain feed with AN fittings.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/21006A/10002/-1?parentProductId=1675460
Will give a bit more volume, plus better viscosity for my commuting. Thinner and shorter than the radiators, so the radiator guards will take the brunt of side impacts. Frontal damage will be blocked by additional screening, when I find some I like. Maybe just the Husky angled panels.

Maybe its been done before with bad results. Hopefully an old timer can chime in with advice...

 

[duggoey]

i run a 13/47 (stock front, -3 teeth from rear) good for single track to 90km/h cruising speed. unless you are carrying in excess of multiples of more than 10's of kilos i doubt you would need to strengthen the subframe, but dont tie stuff to the rear fairings, it is mounted to crappy tiny holes that will sheer through when going over bumps.

 

[WbCherry]

Thanks.
I mounted some little handles to the sides of the rear fairings, for strapping down small items like DVDs and such. I think it may have been a mistake - someone may use them to pick the bike up....

A TrailTech X2 HID is on the way. If it doesnt work, I'll have the stator rewound. either way, I'll report back.

Still alot of little things to do on this bike. The previous owner's tailight is wired backwards, etc.

does anyone know if the MotorSportz kickstand is offered is a "lowered" version?

 

[duggoey]

C

Reference for the "pretty sure" ?

I also have a spare rear shock spring, if anyone is interested. It came from the seller, still sealed in the box. Not sure if it's aftermarket - he was about 200 lbs.

Does anyone know the axle diameter, width, spacers, etc? A friend of mine has a few dozen wheels...to make a motard set for me.

You heard it here first : I'm putting oil coolers in front of the radiators, plumbed to the valvetrain feed with AN fittings.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/21006A/10002/-1?parentProductId=1675460
Will give a bit more volume, plus better viscosity for my commuting. Thinner and shorter than the radiators, so the radiator guards will take the brunt of side impacts. Frontal damage will be blocked by additional screening, when I find some I like. Maybe just the Husky angled panels.

Maybe its been done before with bad results. Hopefully an old timer can chime in with advice...

Can you give more (lots more!) detail on the oil cooler? Maybe even start a thread, this would be very interesting. Where exactly are you feeding the lines to/from on the motor. Does the feed for that oil pump have the "grunt" to move that much oil up to "x" height to the radiator without lowering flow rate and volume.

 

[WbCherry]

There's a line on the right side with banjo fittings. I'll keep the line in my pack, in case the system fails.

I'm having hoses made with AN -6 going to the left cooler. AN to AN to the right, then AN to banjo back to the engine. Before the engine, a pressure sensor. Somewhere in there, maybe a t-vavle for draining.

The feed/return lines are on the same side, unlike the cheap coolers where they're on the bottom. (Along with the other problems with the cheapo stuff -bad brackets, etc) Putting the fittings-side inboard, so they won't punch through in an inevitable crash.

The ones I linked are 3x8 inches. Two inches deep. The radiators are 4x12 inches, roughly. That gives room for fittings, and I'll mount them as high as I can. Fab some bracketry to stand them off the radiators by about a half inch or so.

It's not THAT much oil. They're ten-row coolers, but the tubing is low diameter. Too lazy to do the volumetric math at the moment. I'll run thinner viscosity. The gravity isn't the problem, it's the drag against the tubing (fluid dynamics). At the higher RPM's I'll be running, I believe the pump can push it. I'm tracking down a pressure sensor and indicator/gauge that I like, and compare the readings with a phone call to Husky. If not, I'll drop one of the coolers or switch to a smaller one (a two-pass).

If the pressure is up to spec at low RPM's, I'll remove the gauge for simplicity. Keep the sensor and an LED indicator on the dash. If I bash something or get a warning, I'll swap in the stock tube and refill.

 

[WbCherry]

Some people do this:
http://www.streetmaster.net/oil-cooler.html

For now,I like coolers better. I'm not sure how well the Husky frame is sealed, yet. I may end up doing the frame thing, for the simplicity, later.

The oil drain bolt is supposedly plumbed into the frame because the pump moves so much fluid at high RPMs. Helps assure me pressure won't be a problem.
Won't be able to plump to THAT frame rail. Haven't checked anywhere else.

 

[glangston]

[quote="WbCherry, post: 196050"]Reference for the "pretty sure" ?

I also have a spare rear shock spring, if anyone is interested. It came from the seller, still sealed in the box. Not sure if it's aftermarket - he was about 200 lbs.

Does anyone know the axle diameter, width, spacers, etc? A friend of mine has a few dozen wheels...to make a motard set for me.

You heard it here first : I'm putting oil coolers in front of the radiators, plumbed to the valvetrain feed with AN fittings.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/21006A/10002/-1?parentProductId=1675460
Will give a bit more volume, plus better viscosity for my commuting. Thinner and shorter than the radiators, so the radiator guards will take the brunt of side impacts. Frontal damage will be blocked by additional screening, when I find some I like. Maybe just the Husky angled panels.

Maybe its been done before with bad results. Hopefully an old timer can chime in with advice...[/quote]

was just reading through the repair manual and saw a graph made for stator output. The 08 TE and SMR makes;

168 watts @ 2000 RPM

203 watts @ 4000 RPM

217 watts @ 6000 RPM and a maximum of

224 watts @ 10,000 RPM

It actually reads in amps @ 14 volts and you have to convert it.

It is on page M14 (page 294 of the pdf).