• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

so, i guess it is not such a good idea to mess with your shift lever on the te511 haha

SloChicken

Husqvarna
AA Class
decided to move my shift lever a little down to help with upshifts. It rode a little too high and I was missing upshifts as a result of not throwing the lever enough. So, simple procedure, right ???
My advice ...
Just don't do it. That stupid little bolt took like 2 hours to get back in after making my adjustment. Sometimes I think the engineers design shit just to frustrate people ... Not enough clearance to fit a ratchet, too tight for a driver, open ends are like 1/8 of a turn at a time. Just a huge pain in the ass for a single simple 8mm bolt ...
My ducatis have the same pain in the ass tendencies. On the other hand, (and contrary to popular opinion, my yammer, and my harley are actually pretty straightfoward stuff.
Why (oh why) must italian machines (and italian women) be so covetable, yet unexplicably a pain in the ass for no good reason ?
Whatever,
Glad that is done ...
Now time for a cold stone IPA ...
Life is good
 
I just spent an hour changing the oil for the first time on my 12 449. That doesn't include the trip to Pep Boys for a funnel that would fit.

I think I tried every tool and pick I own to get the old filter out of its place. Also tried feeler gauges and still couldn't get the damn thing out of its little V8 can shaped housing. I finally stabbed a slotted screwdriver through the end and pulled it out.

Then I thought i needed to be a magician to get the oil plug back in and start the thread.

Finally done and runs well.
 
as for the threads on the filler cap, just turn back (counter-clockwise on a clockwise thread) until you reach the "higbee" portion of the thread. If you are spinning the thread backwards, there will be a small thump feeling when your reach it. This signifies the beginning of the threading. You can begin to thread it on at this point.
Yes, both the metal filters below and next to the drain are a little sticky, and the big one too.
Like I said, Italian women, and the Italian bikes, they have treated me the same. beautiful, and a bit on the high maintenance and finicky side.
Eh, sometimes you just have to smile and ride the shit out of em' to be worth the trouble, no?
 
Regarding the shift lever bolt, I can 'just' get a 1/4" drive ratchet in if I hold the shifter in either the up or down position (can't remember which it was at the moment).

Of course, that is on an 09 TE250, so may not help for you.

BTW, I like your choice of Stone IPA!
 
I just spent an hour changing the oil for the first time on my 12 449. That doesn't include the trip to Pep Boys for a funnel that would fit.

I think I tried every tool and pick I own to get the old filter out of its place. Also tried feeler gauges and still couldn't get the damn thing out of its little V8 can shaped housing. I finally stabbed a slotted screwdriver through the end and pulled it out.

Then I thought i needed to be a magician to get the oil plug back in and start the thread.


Finally done and runs well.

I'm actually working on a new filter cap design which will eliminate problems of removing the old filter. It will also eliminate stripping of the outer bolt head. I should have a working product in thirty days.
 
I have no issues with ether. For the shifter I have a metric one of these and pushing down slightly on the shifter and getting it in there. Works EZ once you figure the puzzle out. As for the filters I only do them when new and then check them once in a while as there is never anything in them. The main filter you can get out with a strong magnet. A few tricks to learn. You should see the mess of hoses and wires on the TE250/310 and the oil line running to the drain bolt. That and the mess of hoses in the tank for the EFI crap is bordering on ridiculous. The EPA requirements make these much more complex than need be.
 
A small engine valve lapping tool to pull filter works perfect, and I do believe there is a Allen head slot inside the 8mm head as well :)
 
I just take off the covers, pull up the kickstand, and drop it on it's left side! Gravity and Newton's Laws take care of the rest. Those filters pop out just enough to grab them with your fingers.

Seriously though, it is a tight fit, and I've often thought how italian girls have such long slender little fingers and wondered myself if they are on the race team for more than holding umbrellas and causing pre-mature issues amongst the competition. :p
 
I just take off the covers, pull up the kickstand, and drop it on it's left side! Gravity and Newton's Laws take care of the rest. Those filters pop out just enough to grab them with your fingers.

Seriously though, it is a tight fit, and I've often thought how italian girls have such long slender little fingers and wondered myself if they are on the race team for more than holding umbrellas and causing pre-mature issues amongst the competition. :p
Lmfao!
 
I have one of these hottie Italian bikes too. Where do I go to get my hottie Italian girl? I don't think my local husky dealer carries them.
 
+ on the pick. Every good bike mechanic needs a pick set.
The service wasnt hard for me but Ive been a bike tech working on Hondas and Harleys as well as working on the past 21 different bikes Ive owned so maybe my view is a bit askew.
 
a hook is the key. start fishing and you'll be all set :)


I just spent an hour changing the oil for the first time on my 12 449. That doesn't include the trip to Pep Boys for a funnel that would fit.

I think I tried every tool and pick I own to get the old filter out of its place. Also tried feeler gauges and still couldn't get the damn thing out of its little V8 can shaped housing. I finally stabbed a slotted screwdriver through the end and pulled it out.

Then I thought i needed to be a magician to get the oil plug back in and start the thread.

Finally done and runs well.
 
I've used picks as well and they work fine, Every mechanic should have a good set of oring and seal picks if youve worked on any hydraulic apparatus like on aircraft landing struts etc. When that doesn't work or my small picks happen to be missing in action. I usually grab one of my 2-1/2 dia disc magnets. The magnets I'm talking about are designed for holding one of those tracking lights down on the side of a Border Patrol Vehicle or the Police style radio antenna on the roof all the time when there out in the desert brush. These things are so strong I can lay it on the top of the back of my hand and it will hold a machete upside down on the palm of my hand facing down. I have pretty big hands.

Unlike these "Italian girls you guys are speaking of which I would rather have around for all the other activities, slim fingers and all.

This still works well for me the only problem is getting the darned magnet off a flat steel surface to use it the next time. It has to be slid to the edge of whatever you last stuck it to. Or use a hammer and putty knife to get under it. I think I'll start doing like Huskynoobee and push the bike over on its side. With me riding thats going to happen anyway plus my hyde racing skid plate doesnt fill itself with all the oil that way.
 
+1 on the magnet. Give it a gentle pull and it comes our pretty easily. Now the shift lever is a P.O.S. IMO. I'm on my second one as the original
one stripped out while I was out riding and left me stuck in 6th gear. Luckily the ride back was mostly down hill but let me say it took some serious
clutch work to get back and amazingly my clutch didn't get fried.
 
The BMW shifter is the same way bolt position wise on the shifter lever. It does have a torx or a allen head in the center of the hex head bolt if thats any help on both shifter bolts. I run the Husky Shifter on my BMW chassis as its a bit longer in over all length which I like but don't like the splined position itself when installed. The damn thing has to be held up into 2nd gear to get a wrench on it and If your at all familiar with the BMWs chassis there is no under cradle on that frame. its fairly easy to get to you would think but awe no. It's still awkward as hell to get to and won't come off the shaft with out removing the rearwheel forward and jumping the chain off the sprocket especially if your running a 14 or 15 tooth front. Even the 13 requires the chain to be slacked off quite a bit to get it off. I drilled a large hole in my Hyde racing skid plate just to access the bolt itself with a 1/4" swivel and extension on a small ratchet or nut driver. I can't imagine you guys with your full cradle Husky frames having to do this same job. it must be a 1/16th of a turn at a time. I have some tiny ratcheting metric box ends and the hole i use in the skid plate i made does the job easier. Just my view on this. I swear I'm going to cut two shifters up into halfs and make my own with my tig welder to get it where I would really like it to be.
 
I don't know what all the fuss is about, for the shifter, remove the skid plate, hold the shifter up, and use a 5/16" or 8MM shallow Snap On or Mack 1/4" drive swivel socket with a 6"+ extension and a ratchet and it's no big deal. I tightened mine up good when it was new, and 800+ miles later, still solid. As for the oil filter, I use a craftsman piston ring spreader inside the recess on the bottom of the filter and just pull it out.
 
I'm actually working on a new filter cap design which will eliminate problems of removing the old filter. It will also eliminate stripping of the outer bolt head. I should have a working product in thirty days.


You mean like the shitty manufacturer should have thought about in the first place?
 
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