• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

SMR511 coolant drain threads stripped

DrRobotenstein

Husqvarna
AA Class
The threads on the coolant drain hole on my SMR511 are stripped. Can anyone suggest a fix? Can a helicoil work? Would I need to get a new water pump cover?
 
Helicoil. Or drill out and tap to next bigger size and match to a bigger bolt.
Careful not to let the swarf into the motor and cooling system.
 
The threads on the coolant drain hole on my SMR511 are stripped. Can anyone suggest a fix? Can a helicoil work? Would I need to get a new water pump cover?

give us a picture of the damage. It may be possible to chase or re-tap the threads and put the drain bolt back in (lightly) with some goop or Loctite.

you also might consider J-B Weld or that Loctite thread repair epoxy. It should be able to handle the heat without a problem. ...and if any of these techniques fail, you can resort to a heli-coil (although I like timeserts better).

Also, consider using an aluminum bolt for the drain: easier on the female threads and it should grow/contract closer to the same rate as the hole. Watch for galling though- go easy.

It just a plug basically; shouldn't be under *too* much stress or pressure (20-30 psi).

good luck.
 
If you use a helicoil kit, make sure to cover the tap threads in grease and clean/replace the grease every turn or so of the tap. The grease will hold on to the swarf and stop it going into the engine. Then use a cotton swab to clean it out at the end.
 
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