• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Sleeve removal tool?

Bigbill

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Does anyone offer a sleeve removal tool? I need to press a sleeve out part way to add ports.
 
Use a barbie (oven not doll) mark guide lines cylinder to sleeve tap out using soft jaws on vice and aluminium drift, I used large od aluminium tube to place the cylinder on upside down big enough to hold the cylinder but wider than the sleeve then tapped the sleeve out.
 
The cylinder is bored ready to go. I need to move the sleeve out so I can add the 82/83/84 ac vertical cr porting to a earlier late 70's cylinder right in front of the reeds from the crankcase.
 
You really should put the cylinder in the oven at 200ish degrees to move the sleeve at all. Especially if you lose the rotation and need to correct. You would have to possibly re-hone if you move either with or without heat
 
Having done many a sleeve jobs,I would hone to .002 interference fit.This will give you 20/30 seconds after heating to line the ports up and still have a solid fit.
 
My problem is the cylinder is bored perfect already for assembly. I want to add the extra cr porting that the 82/83/84 250's have without reboring the cylinder.
 
My problem is the cylinder is bored perfect already for assembly. I want to add the extra cr porting that the 82/83/84 250's have without reboring the cylinder.
sounds like its too late to do that then. not worth wasting cylinder meat boring again over it.
 
Unless I drill holes first then play connect the dots with a dremel tool. It's surgical work.
 
Make sure you do not starting drilling into fins. The older cylinders may not have the meat to do what you want anyway. So check everything carefully before starting.
 
Thanks for your reminder your right everything must be checked first so this will work. If it can be done the older late 70's engine will have more respect.
 
When I have heated the Cylinder the Liner has fallen out with no tools at all. I don't think that Heating it is going to change the dimensions of Your Bore and Hone. I understand what ports You want to add a I have an 84 250 WR Cylinder. If I was to add the ports to a Cylinder I would probably do it in a Milling Machine and I would do it with the Liner Installed. Why remove it ?
 
My '84 250wr AC they say has a cr ported cylinder from the factory. My two other '83 250wr's couldn't come close to this bike. Those two extra vertical ports make a difference and probably has some port timing changes too. I have a late 70's cr cylinder I'd like to try adding these two ports. Besides porting the transfer ports and exhaust port. She could be a little animal.
 
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