• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Size of tool needed for steering head nut?

30mm. Bought one for my crf100 a few years ago and found out afterwards that it fits the husky. I've also read that the flywheel puller is the same. I have one, just haven't tried it on the husky. Fun having dual usage out of oddball tools!
 
No problem, Glad it worked out for you. I have had really good luck with the specialty tools made by Tusk.
 
So I am still re assembling my bike during the winter months and after getting the forks and front wheel on I noticed that with the Motosportz dampener installed I lost a significant amount of steering angle. The nuts for the handle bar clamps hit the dampener ring pinch bolt area about a 1/4" before the steering stops. Thing is, my stops were really far out to start and I was not happy with the lack of turn radius and had planned to run them in a bit but now I am perplexed on a solution. Anyone else run into this issue and if so what can be done if anything? I do a good amount of really tight woods rides and this isn't sitting well in my stomach. I would hate to have to remove the dampener and take a loss but I don't see much alternative here... HELP!:(
 
reveille said:
Anyone know what size spanner to remove the steering head ring nut on a 2012 TE310? I know I can use a screw driver and beat on it but if the right tools is cheap enough I will pick one up for future maintenance. I have a dampener in the mail and want to disassemble and lube everything at the same time as installing the Motosportz dampener. TIA
Click to expand...


Take pictures. I'm creating a photo album of your projects so when I get around to doing them on my bike, I have a reference. You should change your name from "Reveille" to "Guinea Pig."
 
I responded to your Email. A few solutions. Yes those are very tight installs just like everything else on those bikes. Respond to my Email and we can work on a solution to the stop limit. I will be gone from about 9:30 - noon today but will look for your responce. thanks
 
My solution was to carefully line up the nuts so the flats indexed with the clamp which yielded a few more millimeters of clearance and a few degrees more turning. My other solution was to go with a 10mm by 1.25 thread bolt and use a smaller nut. (stock is 1.5 pitch). This would give me a nut with a 14mm outside diameter instead if 17mm.

I bought the bolts and nuts and they have been sitting in my box for over a year because even though on the bench I saw a reduction in lock to lock out on the trail I never noticed it.

Post up the solution you come up with.
 
Micfasto said:
My solution was to carefully line up the nuts so the flats indexed with the clamp which yielded a few more millimeters of clearance and a few degrees more turning. My other solution was to go with a 10mm by 1.25 thread bolt and use a smaller nut. (stock is 1.5 pitch). This would give me a nut with a 14mm outside diameter instead if 17mm.

I bought the bolts and nuts and they have been sitting in my box for over a year because even though on the bench I saw a reduction in lock to lock out on the trail I never noticed it.

Post up the solution you come up with.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your input! I may be over thinking it. I like the 14mm nut idea. Kelly has been working hard to get me squared away and it's much appreciated.:thumbsup: He also mentioned a weld on post option but my welding skills are novice. I have the HDB bar clamp and top clamp so that limits other solutions too. I will tackle this in a couple hours when I get off work and post some pictures of where I am at. Where did you source the bolts? I picked up the 10mm x 110mm long bolts from a local Fastenal store. Nobody else had anything in stock. I guess I could just order some on the interwebs...
 
I have a local ACE hardware that has a really good selection of metric hardware. Several isles of it! It is one of the self service type with hundreds of bins. I find myself staring at the bins looking though it often and coming up with solutions I never would have thought of, or never knew existed.
 
Here are the pictures of the issue with the damper post mount as a reference. It sure looks like a smaller diameter nut would do the trick. I am having issues sourcing a 10mm x 110mm x 1.25 pitch socket head bolts. The last picture shows the distance or gap from the frame stop. As you can see I have the stops out quite a ways and it still isn't close. Also looks like I need to clean those connectors better...LOL
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