• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc shock rebound and sag ??s

motosapiens;83339 said:
so i put 2 more turns of preload into the shock
Click to expand...

That's a huge change. If you were at 4.5" you were close. I'd try 1/2 turn at a time and ride the bike for a good half hour each time.
 
So I was trying to adjust my rebound damping on my wr300 and the screw which you turn is on the chain side of the shock. This appears to be different than what the book shows.

This would normally be a non-issue I guess except that it is going to be very tight to get a screwdriver in there.

Is this what everyone else is dealing with? Or do I just need to unbolt and twist that shock?

thanks
 
motosapiens;83339 said:
There is a bit of instability at faster speeds. I originally measured 4.5" of sag, so i put 2 more turns of preload into the shock,
Click to expand...

Math is hard. In case anyone cares, 23" - 19.5" = 3.5", not 4.5".

I already had too much preload, and I put more in. no wonder it handled funny, lol.

I also discovered that the upper and lower shock bolts are not the same, and that the lower one prefers to be installed in a particular direction so as not to hit the linkage. :p :doh:
 
motosapiens;91288 said:
I also discovered that the upper and lower shock bolts are not the same, and that the lower one prefers to be installed in a particular direction so as not to hit the linkage. :p :doh:
Click to expand...

I was in the same boat last week. There I was all happy to have changed my spring to Chunky Monkey 5.8, reassembled the subframe and then I only had a couple inches of travel.

After switching around the lower bolt direction, I ultimately ended up putting the longer bolt on top. I couldn't remember which went there. :excuseme:
 
BikeSDP;91295 said:
After switching around the lower bolt direction, I ultimately ended up putting the longer bolt on top. I couldn't remember which went there. :excuseme:
Click to expand...

That's what I did too. Both bolts seem to stick out about the same with the longer one in top, so that seems right to me. With the shorter one on top the upper bolt doesn't go all the way through the nut.

Didn't even think about it cuz on my ktm's it's the exact same bolt for top and bottom.
 
Yeah, I always snap a pic before disassembly of the linkage. Good reference.

Mark, hows the bike work now?
 
Motosportz;91344 said:
Mark, hows the bike work now?
Click to expand...

I only rode it around the neighborhood long enough to make sure it was back together more or less correctly. Going riding tonight tho. Mostly course marking, but i should be able to start getting a feel for LT's work.
 
I was pretty happy with going up to 5.8 from 5.4 on my 300 (thanks, Kelly). In getting some air at the local riding area this past Sunday, I noticed an improvement. Now I too need to send the forks out for Les to change the springs, valving and generally plush it out.
 
For those who upped the spring weight, what do you weigh without gear? And no lying :naughty:

I weight 215# minus gear and I think the shock and fork spring rates are real close for my fat n' slow ass :busted:
 
225 at the gym scale (no gear) and I went with the 5.8 spring. Maybe I could have gone with a 5.6 and more preload. Maybe I'll order up a 5.6 and leave it on my kitchen counter as an incentive to drop 20lbs by summer.
 
Call Les and he will tell you your spring rates needed. I am 210 with gear/190 without. I am @ 5.6 rear and .46 front (wr250).

I need to work on the front 50mm forks/spring rates/oil level/see if they need bled (wr125). They should have adjustable sag settings on the front as well. I was told each notch is 5mm of spring movement in either direction to adjust sag.
 
I'm 175 w/o gear, a bit over 200 with gear (we carry lotsa gear here in idaho, since walking sucks). The stock 5.4 seems pretty good to me, especially after revalving. I went to .44 on the front (from the stock .47), based on Les' recommendation, plus .44 is what I run on my kx and it works great.

BTW, the bike works pretty good with LT's revalve. I didn't touch the clickers yet. I had a bit too much preload on the spring, so I backed it out 1 full turn about halfway through the ride and that really made a difference. We measured sag at 3 7/8 standing in attack position and 4 1/8" sitting in a normal (not full attack mode) position, so i might experiment with another 1/2 turn less preload.

The bike is pretty unbelievable in rocks now. I can charge through stuff at speeds that are kinda scary (and i really like rocks and am a good technical tight rock rider). In the wide-open dezert stuff with big whoops it may need a couple clicks more compression, but i think the stock settings are going to pretty spot-on for racing enduros.

The forks feel really soft and plush but i'm still more than an inch away from bottoming them out. :notworthy:
 
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