• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc shock rebound and sag ??s

M

motosapiens

Husqvarna
A Class
So i got to ride a little today on my new 09 wr300, finally, after spending a truly heinous week cleaning up after the muddy el centro national. I have to admit, I'm not sure why people complain about the mikuni carb or about the suspension. I moved the needle to the 2nd clip from the top, and the bike runs pretty darned well. Very clean and controllable off-idle, which I like for all the rocky technical stuff i do.

There is a bit of instability at faster speeds. I originally measured 4.5" of sag, so i put 2 more turns of preload into the shock, and either that's too much, or perhaps i need another click of rebound in the back. The back end feels like it's coming back at me a smidgen to quickly in big hits and whoops and stuff. FWIW, I seem to like 1 click more rebound damping than stock in all my other bikes too, at least for desert riding. I would try more rebound if I could figure out how to access the rebound adjuster. it appears to be completely blocked by the linkage. what the heck?

Based on a perusal of threads here, i lowered the forks a few mm too. They were at the 2nd line, and I put them at the first line, which should slow the steering slightly and stabilize the front end slightly. I'd like to try 1 more click on rebound, but I'm not sure if i need that, or just back off preload 1 turn. What are y'all running for sag and rebound in whoops and faster stuff?

And what is the secret squirrel trick for getting to the rebound adjuster?
 
Reb damp - You have to have someone sit on the bike or hang from it to compress it and then adjust (like a monkey!).

Sag - 100mm or a little more.

Work with the rebound but it might be that your spring is to soft and you have to preload it to much to get the sag right. That will make it kick in the rear. Not hook up as well ether. Is it a 5.2 or 5.4? The Sachs shock is good stuff.

Glad you like the bike. Another Husky convert. :thumbsup:
 
Motosportz;83340 said:
Reb damp - You have to have someone sit on the bike or hang from it to compress it and then adjust (like a monkey!).

Sag - 100mm or a little more.

Work with the rebound but it might be that your spring is to soft and you have to preload it to much to get the sag right. That will make it kick in the rear. Not hook up as well ether. Is it a 5.2 or 5.4? The Sachs shock is good stuff.
Click to expand...

I only weigh 200 lbs fully geared up (water, tools, heavy boots, etc...). I didn't measure the sag after changing the preload, so maybe I can get my broken-ankled and sick fiancee out to the garage to give me a hand with that.

I'll try sitting on it like a monkey and see where I get, and I'll see if i can see what rate the spring is too. It doesn't feel like it's moving too much on hard hits, so I'd be surprised if it's too soft, but wth do i know?
 
should the spring be marked somewhere with the spring rate? I didn't see anything on there.

I sorta measured the sag myself, and looks like i'm pretty close to 4". I'll have one of my riding buddies double check tomorrow. I'll bring stuff to maybe back it off 1/2 turn and see whether that works better, or 1 click more rebound works better, or the fork positions fixes it all.

For the rebound adjustment, it works to get a long screwdriver, and run it between the chain guide and swingarm, and kinda stand on the other side, and lay across the seat on my stomach to compress it. I have to do similar monkeyshines on my husaberg (which doesn't even have a *#(&#$ linkage, lol). Just means I'll have to bring the long screwdriver for test rides until I get it dialed.

all in all, it's one of the best suspended bikes i've bought for my particular riding style and terrain. I love how it stays high in the stroke through small stuff and gives me a stable platform to attack bouldery streambed sections. Much ground clearance is a good thing.
 
That's closer to what I've been finding works for me, too. I've been anywhere from 100 to 115 and 105 to 110 seems to be the sweet area.

I'm also finding that heavier spring rates seem to be needed. Heavier than other 250 2T that I've had. If I run say a 5.2 then I end up with a huge amount of preload on the spring, around 20+ mm.

The laiden to un-laiden sag measurements suggest that the spring is correct, but there is way more preload that I would normally have on a spring.

With a 5.6 I'm able to run about 8mm of preload on the spring and get good sag numbers, but it actually feels a little softer in the initial stroke.

But, to the stability question, if you decreased the sag, you pulled in the rake, causing better turnning, but more instability. Moving the fork down should have countered some of that, but you may need more. That will also start to shift the weight bias toward the rear and increase the sag again, but it may not be enough to notice much difference.

Just sharing what I'm finding, but I'm not saying it's right or that anybody else should run it. Just my two cents on the subject.
 
MOTORHEAD;83427 said:
That's closer to what I've been finding works for me, too. I've been anywhere from 100 to 115 and 105 to 110 seems to be the sweet area.

I'm also finding that heavier spring rates seem to be needed. Heavier than other 250 2T that I've had. If I run say a 5.2 then I end up with a huge amount of preload on the spring, around 20+ mm.

The laiden to un-laiden sag measurements suggest that the spring is correct, but there is way more preload that I would normally have on a spring.

With a 5.6 I'm able to run about 8mm of preload on the spring and get good sag numbers, but it actually feels a little softer in the initial stroke.

But, to the stability question, if you decreased the sag, you pulled in the rake, causing better turnning, but more instability. Moving the fork down should have countered some of that, but you may need more. That will also start to shift the weight bias toward the rear and increase the sag again, but it may not be enough to notice much difference.

Just sharing what I'm finding, but I'm not saying it's right or that anybody else should run it. Just my two cents on the subject.
Click to expand...

You want about 10mm preload (+ - 2mm ) on a linkage bike. About 30-35mm static sag.
 
That's about where I'm at now. I honestly think going to the Synergy bushing made a big difference in the way it sets up and feels. Seems like there was a bunch of bind in the linkage.
 
Vinduro speaks the truth on unladen sag. if not around 30-35 then spring is either too soft or too stiff.
 
One set up likely will not cover all riding demands and one is always working with a setting that works passably well in all situations
Running the flats here using the top of the gearbox needs the forks right down level or into the top triple clamp especially in whoops at 50-60mph
If you can not use your bike pinned wfo safely and with confidence in top gear on an open section you are losing time
If you do carry a screwdriver to make adjustments try a few things.
After you set the sag on fresh-ish oil/springs;
Set the compression both ends at zero turns +1 and ride it a bit and see what it feels like
Then set it at full -1 and ride the same bit of trail/track
Then go back to stock and reflect
You can try the rebound same way
My 2cts
 
I am no expert but I believe more high speed compression will make the bike ride higher and less lower. You could try decreasing it.

I ended up going the other way with sag. On my 125 I have springs for a 200 pound rider (4.4 front, 5.4 rear) and used to run 100mm sag. One day I put on a trials tire and was amazed how well the bike turned. I assume it is because it jacked the back up. When I went back to a knobby I set my sag at 95mm and moved my forks up to where 3 lines are showing. The bike turns really well now and I am not sure how much better the new framed ones could work. But where I ride I am most concerned with turing at second and third gear speeds.
 
What the default rear spring for the WR300? I've been wiping it down trying to find some info printed on there.
 
BikeSDP;88268 said:
What the default rear spring for the WR300? I've been wiping it down trying to find some info printed on there.
Click to expand...

5.4 on my 2009. I could never see it when it was on the bike, but i took the spring off to ship the shock and forks to LTR and the little sticker became more obvious.
 
5.4, eh?
Cool. Finally a bike I dont have to replace the spring on :thumbsup:

Not that I was going to cause it feels good, but I am glad to know the spring I really need is already on there.

Any idea whats in the forks?
 
5.4 is for a 200#'er (so my suspension guy says) and I would guess for every additional 20#'s you'll need to go up one step.
 
Beefeaters up;88293 said:
Is that with or without gear? And what do y'all use to measure in MM's? I can only find tapes in inches. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I just multiply the inches by 25.4 to get mm. You can leave off the .4 if it makes it easier, and just shoot for sag in the 4" - 4 1/4" range (102 -108mm)
 
Beefeaters up;88293 said:
Is that with or without gear? And what do y'all use to measure in MM's? I can only find tapes in inches. Thanks.
Click to expand...

with gear, just like you ride the bike. Sit in the front middle portion of the seat, feet off the ground and let someone else measure the sag. Set at about 110mm :thumbsup:
 
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