• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc Shifting problems on 2010 WR300 6-speed transmission swap

S

Scott Howard

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi all

I've been installing a 1993 WXE360 transmission into my 2010 WR300. I finally got it put back together and started it up today. It runs. (Phew!) The Rekluse clutch, is dragging a lot, which is wierd because it was fine before I disassembled the motor, but I'll go over it again and make sure I didn't mess something up.

The piece that has me scratching my head is shifting. Up shifts are fine, but it's basically impossible to downshift unless I kill the motor. This could be related to the clutch, but why so different between upshifts and downshifts?

There doesn't appear to be any adjustments in the shifting mechanism. Does this mean that the shifter arm is maybe bent, or worn?

Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.
 
I've got no idea as far as a rekluse goes...but...

How did the shifter claws look when you put it in? I don't care for the the mechanism compared to when the newer 5 speeds use, it never felt as positive on the shifts.

Anyway, those claws don't grab a whole lot of the shift drum, so it'd be important that they are in good condition. I had an extra one in my box of parts that the up shift tang was broken off. Also, with the such little to grab, I put and extra washer to reduce the in and out movement of the shaft (you know the washer that it rides on against the inner clutch cover?). If it's moving too far in and out, it could be that your boot pulls it out when down shifting and in when upshifting.
 
msmith345 said:
I've got no idea as far as a rekluse goes...but...

How did the shifter claws look when you put it in? I don't care for the the mechanism compared to when the newer 5 speeds use, it never felt as positive on the shifts.

Anyway, those claws don't grab a whole lot of the shift drum, so it'd be important that they are in good condition. I had an extra one in my box of parts that the up shift tang was broken off. Also, with the such little to grab, I put and extra washer to reduce the in and out movement of the shaft (you know the washer that it rides on against the inner clutch cover?). If it's moving too far in and out, it could be that your boot pulls it out when down shifting and in when upshifting.
Click to expand...

These are great suggestions, thanks! I will get the Rekluse sorted out and then go back and look at the shifter shaft and claw.
 
I had that problem with mine after a year or so of use. The difficulty down shifting I mean. Of course I tore it down and
split the cases. Nothing was amiss. After further inspection it turns out my selector where it grabs the pins on the little shifting "sprocket" was worn enough to make it next to impossible to down shift and when it did it didn't feel right at all. The good thing, now that I know is, it can be replaced by just removing the side case.
Maybe you've got the same issue?

Dave
 
The shift drum cog and the selector were updated in the last year or two of production and were available when I did my conversion.
They may have helped but the bottom line is that I don't think the 6 speeds shift the same as the 5 speeds and require a little "getting used to".
After a couple rides I wasn't missing and shifts.
 
Not to contradict, I am very pleased with how mine shifts. Just a nudge is all it takes. But I will look into the later model/version.
 
WVdag said:
I had that problem with mine after a year or so of use. The difficulty down shifting I mean. Of course I tore it down and
split the cases. Nothing was amiss. After further inspection it turns out my selector where it grabs the pins on the little shifting "sprocket" was worn enough to make it next to impossible to down shift and when it did it didn't feel right at all. The good thing, now that I know is, it can be replaced by just removing the side case.
Maybe you've got the same issue?

Dave
Click to expand...
So, it worked well for about a year and then began misbehaving?

Any idea how many hours/days/years of use it had on it before you installed it in your bike? I'm just wondering if this will be an ongoing issue that will require regular replacement of the shift selector.
 
I don't have any idea how much prior use but the transmission was out of a 91 or 92 WR. I didn't know enough to inspect the selector before installing it. Chances are it was worn alittle when I got it. Got another one and all good now. As far as an ongoing problem, if I can get 20 some odd years out of the replacement that'll do me.

Dave
 
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