• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Servicing rear suspension questions

TyWaugh

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hey guys, hoping to get some insight on a few things.

I have the bike apart cleaning and regressing the rear suspension. This is the first time I serviced the rear suspension (50hrs riding) and wish I had of done it sooner. There wasn't a whole lot of grease and 5 bearings are in rough shape and need replacing. Oh well lesson learned. Bearings removed pretty easily with a little heat to the swingarm and 3/4 inch long socket and hammer.

Im debating installing grease nipples for the frame swing arm bearings but not sure if that's a good idea, it may help the bearings last longer but not too fond of putting even a small hole in the swing arm. has anyone done this before and have some advice for me on whether this is a worthwhile idea?

I removed the swingarm front chain slider and was surprised to see how worn the swingarm is getting underneath the slider. There is a decent groove developing. I checked with a few buddies and I will be bonding it in place with a rubberized gasket material to hopefully prevent further wear.

Lastly I am planning to replace the rear shock pivot bearing with a synergy seals rubber bushing (as found on this site by another rider) Im curious if others have used these and how they stand up?

I was surprised to see this much wear and tear in 50hrs. I am cautious when pressure washing and I dont ride in overly wet conditions. There didnt look to be a whole lot of grease used, I suspect that may have had something to do with it.

A few pics:
Synergy seals:
Husky-P-Bushing.gif


Wear on swing arm from slider (50hrs):
Halifax-20130106-00478_zps30c31ba3.jpg

Halifax-20130106-00476_zps988a5698.jpg


Wear on rear shock pivot bearing sleeve. Swing arm bearings werent as bad but not a whole lot better.
Halifax-20130106-00471_zps6defd000.jpg
 
Nipples wont hurt the integrity of the arm as long as you clean the holes and chamfer the edges of the hole prior to tapping.
What model bike is this?

That's a lot of wear on the arm, you said this is under the slider? Was the slider loose?
I would polish that wear out and not think about it again but I sure would address what ever caused it.
 
Sorry I forgot to mention. Bike is a 2011 TE 250. This was the stock slider and it didn't appear loose. When I removed the slider there was a decent buildup of dirt underneath. I have heard TM Designs makes some great chain slider parts.

The only thing with polishing out the groove I would be afraid of thinning the rest of it out too much. I will smooth it out a bit and hoping some rubberized bonding material between the new slider and swing arm will eliminate future wear from slider. Dirt was getting underneath it somehow so if I can eliminate that problem I should be good.

Thanks for the help!
 
I bought the Synergy composite gudgeon for the lower shock mount, I have not installed it yet, the $8 Grainger bearing I replaced the OEM with is still good. I got a new gudgeon for the lower shock mount (yours looks like a goner), from Bryon at Bill's I ordered it on Wed and received in the mail on Friday.
HuskySynergy.jpg



I made a little jig and with some emery cloth, cleaned up my pitted bushings on the swingarm and frame connections.
HuskyLinkage3.jpg
 
I do my swing arm every six months. My bearings have never needed replacing in any bike in the 4000kms I tend to keep them.
Just use a lot a quality water proof grease and really squeeze it in between the rollers.
If you are in constant mud and water lift the regreasing frequency
 
Thanks for the replies fellas.

OHR - I will check out local bearing shops for rear shock bearing, thats a good suggestion. My sleeves were in too bad of shape to polish with an emery cloth.

ghte - As I said lesson learned haha, I will be servicing twice a year in the future. My old drz 400 saw the same type of riding conditions within the same time period and besides a stuck swingarm shaft/bolt all bearings were in fine shape when I pulled it apart.
 
HOW TO TURN THE ROUND SHOCK ADJUSTER ON AN 06 TC510 OHLINES SHOCK, IT HAS THE ROUND ADJUSTER WITH HOLES AROUND THE PERIMETER IS THERE A SPANNER WRENCH AVAILABLE?
 
Hey lads just a lesson learn't hey....In general, no matter what brand of bike you purchase, it is always advisable to remove and regrease all the linkage and shock bearings etc. I don't think I have ever purchased a new bike that in my opinion, had enough grease installed at the factory....Second hand bikes ! should be one of the first things inspected (even before purchase, check for movement)....Same goes for the stearing head bearings. Minimum every 6 months I would say.My TC 449 had next to no grease in any of the bearings from new....It seems like alot of effort to pull apart your brand new pride and joy but, will save you money in the long run.....The TC has two grease nipples in the linkage set up from the factory, but still had jack grease in them....Swing arm wear from the the chain slider is another thing that basically occurs on majority of dirt bikes. Make it a standard thing that you do when greasing all the linkages to silicon, then bolt the guide in position at the same time. This will prevent any wear from occurring as movement is eliminated.....=)....Not sure about the 80 nm on the linkage bolts, sounds a tad high, only soft alloy threads which can strip easily ****************************************!, Will check and see what I can find ...
 
Hey guys, hoping to get some insight on a few things.

I have the bike apart cleaning and regressing the rear suspension. This is the first time I serviced the rear suspension (50hrs riding) and wish I had of done it sooner. There wasn't a whole lot of grease and 5 bearings are in rough shape and need replacing. Oh well lesson learned. Bearings removed pretty easily with a little heat to the swingarm and 3/4 inch long socket and hammer.

Im debating installing grease nipples for the frame swing arm bearings but not sure if that's a good idea, it may help the bearings last longer but not too fond of putting even a small hole in the swing arm. has anyone done this before and have some advice for me on whether this is a worthwhile idea?

I removed the swingarm front chain slider and was surprised to see how worn the swingarm is getting underneath the slider. There is a decent groove developing. I checked with a few buddies and I will be bonding it in place with a rubberized gasket material to hopefully prevent further wear.

Lastly I am planning to replace the rear shock pivot bearing with a synergy seals rubber bushing (as found on this site by another rider) Im curious if others have used these and how they stand up?

I was surprised to see this much wear and tear in 50hrs. I am cautious when pressure washing and I dont ride in overly wet conditions. There didnt look to be a whole lot of grease used, I suspect that may have had something to do with it.

A few pics:
Synergy seals:

Wear on swing arm from slider (50hrs):

Wear on rear shock pivot bearing sleeve. Swing arm bearings werent as bad but not a whole lot better.

I've never even considered that wear on the top of the SA like that ... Can something like that be built back up some aluminum welding or maybe JB weld or some other product to replace what is missing? ...

--

My SA bearings seem to have the longest wear time of any bearings on the rear shock so not really a concern to me there ... Maybe they are sheltered the best from mud and splashes ,,,

--

And that bottom shock bearing is about the worst ... I'd be interested in changing to that synery bushing possibility ... Maybe some one can give a report on the PROs and CONs of it ...
 
You can build it back up, only to wear it off again. It wont add any strength but can be sacrificial in this case and a good idea. I think gooping it up with RTV would be best to keep it from moving and getting sand in-between it and the swingarm.
 
I bought the Synergy composite gudgeon for the lower shock mount, I have not installed it yet, the $8 Grainger bearing I replaced the OEM with is still good. I got a new gudgeon for the lower shock mount (yours looks like a goner), from Bryon at Bill's I ordered it on Wed and received in the mail on Friday.
HuskySynergy.jpg



I made a little jig and with some emery cloth, cleaned up my pitted bushings on the swingarm and frame connections.

Can you give some more info on this bushing, is it to replace the bearing altogether? If so, this seems like a very good idea.
Can you provide a PN and such?
 
Can you give some more info on this bushing, is it to replace the bearing altogether? If so, this seems like a very good idea.
Can you provide a PN and such?

Yep, replaces the bearing altogther, the Synergy gets pressed into the linkage and the gudgeon fits into the Synergy, the oly problem I am having is that I have a small amount of play between the bolt and the gudgeon.
 
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