SERVICE THOSE BEARINGS!!!

[Indorider]

Well let's see.... where should I start.
Last week I was preparing for my first group ride on my new (to me) '10 TE 250.
I had already changed out the rear sprocket for a 50t a couple months ago when I bought the thing (how could anyone ride anything technical with a 13/40 setup?) and checked the rear wheel bearings which were a little dirty (a cleaning and re-lube fixed that). I finally found a 12mm hex to remove the front wheel and that's where I started running into trouble. The axle wouldn't come out (with gentle tapping) so I had to knock it out with an old socket extension. To my surprise, the right side bearing came out of the wheel along with the axle! I ended up having to remove the left side of the fork to get the wheel off and with some serious pounding the axle finally came free of the bearing. Luckily I was able to find a set of replacement bearings, cleaned up the axle, and replaced all of it.
I was tempted to go straight after the suspension (knowing that if the guy didn't service his wheels he most likely didn't service the suspension as well) but time was running out so I left it for after the ride.
Had a fantastic adventure in the mountains along the southern coast of East Java and the bike performed flawlessly. My only complaint was the lack of a first gear that could crawl along in the technical stuff (to be remedied this week by changing the counter sprocket to a 12t).
Anyway... I got home and proceded to disassemble the rear suspension which for the most part looked pretty good until I got to the linkage. The first clue was the rusty bolt coming out from where the link connects to the rest of the linkage. After cleaning the rest of the bearings I went after the one I knew would be trouble and BOY WAS IT! the bushing was dead tight. After driving it out I could see that the bearing was a mess of rust. I sprayed some WD in there and started trying to get the bearing to move with my finger. It moved all right! Into little pieces and roller bearings falling out all over the floor. Now I either have to find an OEM replacement or think of an alternative. Judging by the width of the piece where it's housed, I may resort to a couple of sealed roller bearings instead of going back to the original setup.
The moral of the story is: When you buy something used, don't take the person's word that everything has been serviced and don't start riding the thing because you're "chomping at the bit" to get rolling.
Dismantle every part that has bearings. Inspect, clean and lube everything until you are satisfied that the bike is ready to tackle whatever challenges you're capable of attempting.
It's really gonna suck if you're (I'm) stuck waiting for parts after already being addicted to riding the trails.

 

[jtemple]

I really need to get in there and have a look at my bearings.

 

[raisrx251]

The bushing that connects the lower shock to the linkage is a major issue on these bikes. Save yourself some time and order a few spares of this bearing. Someone told me that Synergy makes a better bushing but I have not looked it up. Once all linkage is greased good it stays that way pretty well except that lower shock one. Allballs or Moose racing is very inexpensive for this and I think it may have a better seal.

 

[R_Little]

I've gone so far as to buy an extra swingarm and linkage for all my bikes. I keep them in a rack.

When I change the tire I take the whole swingarm off and swap it all out and them clean and re-lube all the bearings and put it on the rack for the next time.

Husky swingarm bearings are problematic also...especially the chain side.

 

[waserman]

Motosportz has them and I think they were the all balls brand . I think that 2 of the lower shock bearings were included in the kit if I'm not mistaken. That entire rocker/lower assembly needs to be looked after if you do a lot of wet/muddy riding. I would say just get used to pulling it apart and regreasing on a reguar basis 2-3 times a year or more if you do a lot of wet riding.

 

[Phoenix]

I second that motion!

My husband dismantled the linkage/swingarm on his 09 TXC 450 to find that some bearings were disintegrated and some were frozen. He had to take the swingarm somewhere to get the bearings out and destroyed part of the linkage trying to get those out. We ended up buying a used linkage and were probably out $200 in parts and labor between the new linkage, bearings and cost of having the swingarm bearings removed. Needless to say, my bike went on the stand next (2010 TXC) to find similar conditions, but fortunately, not yet past the point of no return. Now those parts are getting serviced every 6 months.

 

[waserman]

I've gone so far as to buy an extra swingarm and linkage for all my bikes. I keep them in a rack.

When I change the tire I take the whole swingarm off and swap it all out and them clean and re-lube all the bearings and put it on the rack for the next time.

Husky swingarm bearings are problematic also...especially the chain side.

Well Rich between the sand and mud over there in NJ and everything that the ECEA has to offer up anything below the level of the countershaft sprocket is always in need of "at least a visual inspection" almost every time we ride . The swingarm bearing seals are not the best design I've seen .

 

[RacerXS]

I'll be ordering the swingarm bearings up today......im betting mine are toast after reading this.

The front wheel bearing were replaced 2 weeks ago, one was crunchy.

EDIT: I found the "All Balls" swing arm bearing kit on Ebay for $50-.....

 

[jtemple]

The 630 has zerks on the rear linkage points. I keep that greased up, but every pivot point doesn't have one.

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

The bushing that connects the lower shock to the linkage is a major issue on these bikes. Save yourself some time and order a few spares of this bearing. Someone told me that Synergy makes a better bushing but I have not looked it up. Once all linkage is greased good it stays that way pretty well except that lower shock one. Allballs or Moose racing is very inexpensive for this and I think it may have a better seal.

Isn't there a bearing at the lower shock mount not just a bushing? but a bearing as well?
The synergy bushings that would replace are a composite flexible plastic material- I had their bushing on a ktm instead of the non-greasable teflon bushing (more $ and high failure rate). It was a great replacement for that and was serviceable. I don't know- on the Husky, I think I'd rather have a bearing than just a bushing...
I just disassmenble and grease everything 1-2 times a year and have not yet had to replace anything. I also cut a tube and ziptied it so it covers the lower shock bolt when I bought the bike... maybe that is helping more than I know.

 

[MontyCarlo]

I also cut a tube and ziptied it so it covers the lower shock bolt when I bought the bike... maybe that is helping more than I know.

That is a great idea

Now I know what to do with the tube I pinched in 3 spots mounting up a new front last weekend

 

[jtemple]

That is a great idea

Now I know what to do with the tube I pinched in 3 spots mounting up a new front last weekend

I hate that! I wasted a set of Dyna Beads doing that just a couple weeks ago.

 

[huskyista]

I had to replace 6 bearings in my rear linkage recently. It had not been greased by the previous owner. I greased it well with marine grease. We will see how it holds up. I plan on greasing the rear linkage once a year and I pressure wash the bike.

 

[Indorider]

I wish I had access to the Euro and U.S. dealers but they won't accept a credit card from an Indonesian bank (neither will PayPal) due to the corruption over here. My driver (sounds so posh but his salary is only $150 month and paid by my office) is out searching for the bearing (and a couple extras) as I write. If he doesn't find one I'll go through the dealers to get a full kit.
I was able to press the bearing out using a vise and a 3/4" Stanley socket (fits perfectly) with a piece of 1" pvc pipe on the other side. The breakdown of the suspension is so easy I'll most likely do it after every 10 hours of ride time for an inspection, cleaning, and re-grease. Next up is the valve adjustment. The previous owner claimed it had just been done the week before I bought it but after this I'm not so sure.
Is there some sort of chart that tells you what size shim you need according to the measured clearance?

 

[jtemple]

Is there some sort of chart that tells you what size shim you need according to the measured clearance?

No. If your clearance is too loose, just put a thicker shim in there until you get it within spec. If it's too tight, do the same with a thinner shim.

I have a digital micrometer. I measure the shim that's in the bike, then measure the shim I want to put in it's place.

 

[Indorider]

That was my plan. I can't get the shim sets that are available overseas so I have to measure then order. I was able to get some nice long feeler guages that I can bend for easier access. It'll be my first time adjusting valves that use shims but it looks pretty simple. Probably good for me, a person can get pretty lazy only working on simple 2 smoker bikes. This is the first 4 stroke I've had in 20 yrs. The last thing I adjusted valves on was a '69 VW...

 

[Indorider]

Here's a video of the group ride I joined last weekend. The only Husky in the group.

 

[jtemple]

That was my plan. I can't get the shim sets that are available overseas so I have to measure then order. I was able to get some nice long feeler guages that I can bend for easier access. It'll be my first time adjusting valves that use shims but it looks pretty simple. Probably good for me, a person can get pretty lazy only working on simple 2 smoker bikes. This is the first 4 stroke I've had in 20 yrs. The last thing I adjusted valves on was a '69 VW...

Just don't drop the new shim down in the engine. It's a b**ch to fish out.

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

Is there some sort of chart that tells you what size shim you need according to the measured clearance?

There are excel spreadsheets that do the math for you- but I haven't seen one for Husky's- usual when someone makes one they don't want anyone to change the math (such as the stock specs that they made it for) so they make it Read only.

YOU can simply do the math-
For instance my specs for my 09TE450 are .004 to .006" for the intakes and .006 to.008" for the Exhaust.
For example: Lets say I checked my valves and I found the exhaust valve clearance was .009" on an exhaust valve.... .009"=.22859mm
I then take out the shim and mic it (because the numbers aren't readable) and it is a 2.2mm shim.
The spec range converted to mm is .1524 to .2032mm and I want to find a number somewhere between that based on available shims. (shim sizes range in variances of .025mm)
I then take my measured clearance and subtract the shim size difference I believe will hit the mark (.05 less) .22859-.05=.17859mm (that will be my new clearance with the shim adjustment of .05mm and it is between the spec numbers)
Then I figure out what shim I need: my original shim was measured at 2.2mm and I add .05mm= 2.250 (that's the shim I buy or put in)
******EDIT: FOUND THIS:*** here is a link to a "calculator that works for any bike that uses a shim" you just have to have the recomended clearence the measured clearence and the current shim thickness: http://www.maultechatv.com/techguides/Valve Clearance Calculator/index.php
I played with it- it appears to work accurately- but I always 2nd guess anything easy- double check your measurements and numbers.*******

Looks like a fun group you joined- how much are dues for the club and does that include airfare from Wisconsin (US)? Awesome trail and scenery

 

[mekanik]

gotta love the riding gear of some of the riders! shorts don't work here