• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc Secret tool for Cylinder Nut inside the power valve cover?

Folks, please read the Service Manual before attempting any serious maintenance work on "anything" really. Not torquing the cylinder bolts evenly might be a good way to crack a cylinder. Some equipment manufacturers specifically instruct to torque certain bolts without any lubrication, at other times to use lube. It can alter the applied torque dramatically, so good idea to follow the instructions, if given. If not specified, I would assume dry torque, less likelihood of over torqueing the fastener.





Power on regardless
 
While I'm a big fan of using lube to get the job done, there's nothing in the book about using it on the bolts on the Hoosk. Timmy, I had completely forgot about those stubby torque adaptors. Thanks!
 
I'm a big fan of 3 in 1 oil, anti seize, marine grease on any bolts and nuts that don't need loctite or dry torquing...just as l like to copper spray just about every gasket.
 
Cylinder gaskets both sides OMG? Shits me to tears tryin to get gasket material off the case halves during a top end. Absołute worst part!
 
Yep, l find it easier to remove the gasket after copper spraying it, use a razor blade in between the gasket and the surface and it will pry off with no drama's ....l had to make my own base gasket in the latest rebuild after the OE gasket decided to imprint itself, on the 360 l've reused the base gasket in 2 top end rebuild with no issues.I don't use the tube version (too messy), just lightly coat, wait about 10mins to touch dry and then install, too easy.
In the past, aviation form-a-gasket was my sealant of choice on engine rebuilds especially headbolts and threads but you've got to be careful as it can distort torque figures if too much is applied and can block galleries is you spread it like it's peanut butter.
2T dirt bike motor's are piss easy compared to V8 rebuilds...l haven't tried my 4T yet:rolleyes:
 
Am I the only one that just removes the PV cover/arm, then uses a socket/torque wrench?

Maybe they don't fit the bigger bikes like they do the 125...
 
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Reactions: JAM
No i use a socket, dont tell timmy i only own a 1/2" torque wrench.
But i was once told by a rolls royce engineer "a good man knows when its tight enough"
Course we wernt talking about fasteners then but i figured thats what he ment.
 
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