• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

Searching for low end 82 CR250

Eurofreak

Husqvarna
AA Class
20170123_103244_zpstetftuyr.jpg

So she is home. I picked her up on the way down to the Swap meet. She runs good but in the woods has a tendency to bog low. I'll start with the pilot jet tuning and check the carb in general. It runs great once the revs are up a little but is a bit abrupt when the power comes on. Plenty of midrange, very snappy. I know it's a motocrosser with a small flywheel.

Picklito commented
It's a subtle change but noticeable. Thinner gasket will lower cylinder/lower port timing/increase compression/tighten squish distance. These all play toward more low end torque. Thicker gasket tends to shift toward higher rpm power. But these engines are a little loose on squish distance, so raising the cylinder really doesn't help them. I like to 'gasket them' to have .040" squish, and all the other numbers are really close this way and they run well.

So, Pipes are an option. Anyone have experience with a WR pipe on a CR? If so, what years would fit? I deally I want to soften the transition as it comes on the pipe and give it a little more bottom end in general.

The bike is currently geared with a 12 tooth countershaft sprocket.I would rather get a bigger rear sprocket if it's available.

The suspension works great in the woods. The bike handles very well, turns nice doesn't deflect off rocks or logs. Any other set up tips for off road are welcome.
 
First jet the carb to clean up the circuits. Check the timing. What mix ratio are you running? A bog down low could be rich or lean. I ran 11t front sprocket in my 250cr in the woods. The rear sprocket was a 53t. It took out the taller first gear. I installed a thunder products UFO in the bottom of the slide. If that's the stock cr pipe leave it. I like my cr' ballastic in the woods when I wick it. It's part of my weight loss program.
I like a bike that comes to life.
 
cold out Pete so jetting prob a tad lean and givin the stumble. Pipes are tough for 250 unless you wanna pay several Franklins and I mean several
 
All of a sudden it come to life maybe a jetting problem. Go with the 11t front sprocket and jet it. The UFO helps it smooth out too.
 
rich on the needle can give you that hit as it suddenly cleans up on the main jet. repacking the muffler with steel wool can help a little low end but may cut high top end a tad.

go to a external lighting flywheel for more inertia.

remember its a 2fitty, not a 500....
 
Thanks all.
I'll dig into the jetting. It is cold out. No problems with the mid range or top end. When it comes on the front end just keeps coming up, gear after gear. :D When it's on the pipe it's got plenty of power :thumbsup:
My research on pipes so far $$ agrees with Joe. Dynoport said they could build a custom pipe if they have the bike for $500. Doubt I'll do that.
A 12t sprocket makes me cringe- an 11...? I can certainly ride it for a hare scramble. It will be a little more work for the enduros. For now there's the '86.
20170123_163712_zpshxo2fwsr.jpg

She's happy in her new digs. Complimentary mug provided by a Husky guru to welcome the girl home.
 
After riding the 390cr the 250 Is cake to ride. Well the 1200 Suzuki bandit on the street and the 390cr in the dirt no fear took over.

My spell check changes my words.
 
My
rich on the needle can give you that hit as it suddenly cleans up on the main jet. repacking the muffler with steel wool can help a little low end but may cut high top end a tad.

go to a external lighting flywheel for more inertia.

remember its a 2fitty, not a 500....

81 250cr had a motoplat flywheel external. But extreme porting also.
 
Thanks all.
I'll dig into the jetting. It is cold out. No problems with the mid range or top end. When it comes on the front end just keeps coming up, gear after gear. :D When it's on the pipe it's got plenty of power :thumbsup:
My research on pipes so far $$ agrees with Joe. Dynoport said they could build a custom pipe if they have the bike for $500. Doubt I'll do that.
A 12t sprocket makes me cringe- an 11...? I can certainly ride it for a hare scramble. It will be a little more work for the enduros. For now there's the '86.
20170123_163712_zpshxo2fwsr.jpg

She's happy in her new digs. Complimentary mug provided by a Husky guru to welcome the girl home.
bike looks great. 11 tooth is an awful idea. a 13 would be much better for longevity then add a 54 on the back. 12 would be the smallest but you may need it on the air cooled bike in the woods.

nice to know dynoport is willing to do a custom, even if its in person. not a bad price...they are built well.
the heavier flywheel will help the power delivery big time..the bottom will just never pull real hard. you just have to use it like traction control.
 
Pilot sounds rich, drop 2 sizes recheck, needle and slide maybe rich cut out size?, drop needle, check reeds are sealing fibre glass rather than carbon fibre, advance timing a tad, squish band width?.
I prefer a lighter flywheel and an even lighter clutch.never had your bike but reckon the cr ignition /flywheel combo with the wr cylinder/head would be a good combo worked well on my 125/144.
Nice looking bike makes me want move to america seems to be bargains galore over there.
 
the heavier flywheel will help the power delivery big time..the bottom will just never pull real hard. you just have to use it like traction control.
I don't need the bottom to pull hard, just not bog, then wheelie. I like to get opinions and possibilities before I dive into something. Traction control is fine.
Pilot sounds rich, drop 2 sizes recheck, needle and slide maybe rich cut out size?, drop needle, check reeds are sealing fibre glass rather than carbon fibre, advance timing a tad,
Anyone have stock timing specs?
I'll pull the carby apart and check the jetting and reeds. The previous owner went through the motor, new crank seals, piston and rings, obviously new plastic, bearings and tires, rebuilt Ohlins. Anyone have stock timing specs?
squish band width?
Please school me.
I love projects, especially tuning where the majority of the work is already done.

Yes, there's Husky's everywhere once you start looking. The US is a BIG country and a lot of old Husky riders in the East.
 
New motors usually pull higher vac leaner might be the go regarding jetting but trial and error dont go too lean on jetting if your doing high speed road sections at low rpm this equates to cooler than normal engine cold siezure
 
bog and wheelie has my money on the pilot / needle. lift needle clip 1 notch and see if it improves you will know your on the right track if it does
 
Jimspac posted about a 20mm extension to the exhaust pipe from a Husky service bulletin. Wouldn't be difficult. I have a donor pipe.
 
Squish band can be measuerd using a piece of solder extended through the spark plug (google/youtube etc) bottom end can be improved with less squish and advance on timing but will need to know squish band before experimenting.if its tinker time due to wether then have a play if not use the clutch and ride.
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