Run In questions 2014 TE310R

[2wheeler]

I have not previously owned a machine of this sophistication. Got a couple of newbie housekeeping questions and a break-in plan ready for critique.

Questions:
Fork Lock: Wheel turned all the way left. Turning key counter-clockwise then back and removing key, doesn't lock. What am I doing wrong?

Tire Pressure
Tires: Michelin Enduro Competition 90/90-21 & 120/90/18
Owners Manual: Front 15.6 psi, Rear 14.2 (is that correct?)
Current readings: Front 14 psi, Rear 16 (in heated garage)
What psi should I run on the street?

Run In Plan:
I plan to break it in on asphalt. Would 35-45 mph max while varying speed and RPMs for short durations be ok? After 0.5 hrs of operation change oil & filter, clean screen, new oil fill. Repeat oil/filter/screen/fill at two hours operation. One more oil/filter change before first service. Have dealer handle first service at 10 hours.

Any additional information for the Euro Bike newbie is greatly appreciated.

 

[danny318]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[oneal]

just my opinion id rather run her in as per oem manual.

 

[huskydude59]

Well Mr2wheele, Congrats. Running in a dirt should be done on dirt !!! Your steering lock is a very finicky thing you gotta wiggle the bars it a little, push it and it will work. It's really because know one really uses them I think.. But they do work.. As for your tyre pressure set it to 14 front and rear cold will be fine.. To run a high performance dirt bike is pretty simple. Just go and ride it. Not too slow, not too fast for long periods. Remember it's not just your engine you are bedding in.. suspension needs to be moved thru its full stroke. When I start to run in my TE511 I will ride it like would normally, suspension will be adjusted softest setting for compression leaving std setting for rebound. I will ride it until it feels like I need to bring the dampening back up again. adjusting the settings as I feel it needs it. Setting you static sag after you feel its bedded in properly. The rest is normal maintenance.. Hope this helps.. Now go and tare up some dirt dude..

 

[2wheeler]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I was expecting the manual to be a little more specific as to rpms. Currently the forks are through the triple clamp on what appears to be a third line. The shock has 5/8'' of thread left.

 

[reveille]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I was expecting the manual to be a little more specific as to rpms. Currently the forks are through the triple clamp on what appears to be a third line. The shock has 5/8'' of thread left.

Is this your first bike or have you had others in the past? I have a 2012 310 and I broke mine in riding a mix of off and on road. I did a few 30 minute runs mixing up RPM's. After 30 minutes I let the bike cool and then repeated. The 310 engine will feel really tight at first and may even stall at low RPM's on you. Don't be alarmed it will get better. have fun and enjoy. It is one hell of a great dirt bike! Change the oil at 4 hours to get any left over manufacturing debris out.

 

[2wheeler]

Haha I have now been busted to a degree! This is the first new bike I have owned in many years. I grew up with the 70's dirt bikes. Got some serious catching up to do. You guys are giving out some great information!

 

[reveille]

Haha I have now been busted to a degree! This is the first new bike I have owned in many years. I grew up with the 70's dirt bikes. Got some serious catching up to do. You guys are giving out some great information!

Don't sweat it man! You came back just in time to buy one of the best Enduro bikes ever built. Unfortunately it is being killed off to make way for white KTM's with a Husqvarna logo on the side. Some sarcasm in there but I am hopeful that Huskys future will be positive

 

[2wheeler]

Nice! Great news from an experienced owner. I too am hopeful for Husky's future. For now I'm pretty excited! Just picked her up Friday.

 

[duggoey]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I like this theory in summary. Though I don't believe the "ride it like it's stolen" approach is totally ideal. There are more parts that need to seat and break in besides the rings and bore. I believe you should trail ride it loading all the gears in both acceleration and engine breaking, always moving to keep it cool but avoid redlining it.

 

[richard kersten]

Have fun !!! Not alot of fun on the street but in the dirt.... ooooooooya!

 

[2wheeler]

Ok the fork is now locked lol. More sound advice from our friends down under. Definitely looking forward to having some fun! What makes this bike not a lot of fun on the street?

 

[Boogie]

Below is cut from the 2012 workshop manual. It says the TE model is ROAD USE. Well not really, they are a TXC with lights and just enough crap to choke the performance to get a plate.
To get the most from your TE310R, you'll want to power it up (txc spec).
This should include a gear change from 40T to 50T on the rear.

The 13/50 gearing and close ratio gearbox are one reason these bikes are not commuter comfortable.

Oh yeah... the 310R is one brilliant enduro bike

 

[2wheeler]

Got it! Gearing/Engine RPMs being the primary reason she is not happy on the asphalt. Much like an old school 4 speed muscle car with a 4:56 gear in place of the stock 3:73. While loading the bike to bring it home, the power up kit was mentioned. Either pcm replacement or remap and o2 sensor removal. Will have to check that out.

Boogie, I see you have a 310R and a 250R. My understanding is the primary differences are the displacement and seat height. What did husky do to achieve the lower seat height of the 250?

 

[reveille]

The 310r model doesn't need the O2 sensor removed. Just need to pull the Cat converter, open the air box and reflash the ECU. The TXC air filter assembly helps with the airbox. I have the 2012 which requires a more involved power up procedure, including removing O2 sensor but the new R models are easier. Enjoy!

 

[2wheeler]

Thanks reveille. This is such a great community! I really appreciate everyone's patience with the old-guy-newbie! I hope to learn more from everyone's knowledge and experience!

 

[Boogie]

In Australia, the 250r and 310r have exactly the same seat height. The lowered 250 was only in the US.
However... I had my 250r lowered and set it up for my girlfriend. It was lowered 50mm internally. No lowering link was used. It's all reversible.

 

[2wheeler]

I suppose that is what Husky did to lower the 250R in the US. This would be achieved with different spacers and possibly different springs in the forks and the shock? BTW, what does dropping the fork tubes in the clamps do other that lower it slightly?

 

[Boogie]

I suppose that is what Husky did to lower the 250R in the US. This would be achieved with different spacers and possibly different springs in the forks and the shock? I think so.
BTW, what does dropping the fork tubes in the clamps do other that lower it slightly?
Moving the fork tubes up through the clamp will 1. shorten your wheelbase slightly 2. reduce the trail measurement slighty 3. lowers centre of gravity
Basically, it affects steering geometry. It will make the bike turn faster but be less stable at speed

Good info on dirt bike suspension here: http://motocrossactionmag.com/Main/News/bbcbd491-0546-4c53-9a4e-03d46244c88f.aspx

 

[Tinken]

Ride it normal, do not run it hard during break in. Change the oil at 30, 100 and 300 miles (48, 160, 480 Km). Use Mobil1 0W40 or equivalent light weight synthetic, change oil filter and clean pre-filter at every change. The new Husqvarna's are especially susceptible to damage during break in and have to be babied even more. I have rebuilt more 310 (R's included) engines than I care to admit and the 310R engine is not Jap-crap, it's an Italian racing engine.