huskybear
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Assimilation complete.... you are now one of us
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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Round two of the "other" carb types - Lectron
- Thread starter Motosportz
- Start date
Husqvarna
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Long_Stroke
Husqvarna
AA Class
Looks like you got the right cable stop at the top, Dirtdame. Do you know if its been cut shorter, too?
I just sent mine back yesterday for the brass top and 3 mm cut off the reed side.
I just sent mine back yesterday for the brass top and 3 mm cut off the reed side.
johnnyboy
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I ended up trimming my airboot, I cut it just past where the clamp used to be and now every-thing fits great! I also did not like the shock spring contacting the airboot and the wrinkle that was in it.I was deciding whether or not to cut it, but I am never taking the lectron off and I am keeping this bike until the wheels fall off so I trimmed it.The lectron is a winner!Maybe the next mod will be the wb165 kit-I am sure it would be awesome with the lectron as well!
I popped in and bought a new boot for mine and was really surprised how cheap a new one is as I also cut mine back, I even went as far as running a 4 inch grinder end on with a new disc around where the boot is radiused to square it back up so the clip stays closer to the carb (dont think its nessersary) but better to be safe than sorry
When the new Lectron ever turns up I will try the old one on the 144 as I still havnt given it a go as I cant be bothered to fight it into place lol and will most probably have to order another one as stupidly I did say a mate can try it on his 125 and I cant see me ever getting it back
street2dirt
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Just received mine yesterday also, will be sending it back to be cut down. Awesome looking unit..........................
ScottyR
Husqvarna
AA Class
Lance. At the WEC in Parry Sound, all the CH Racing guys had PWKs on their bikes. I cant see them going back to TMXs 5 yrs later.
Steve-oh
Husqvarna
AA Class
Installed my new Lectron Carb today, started on the third kick 
, I couldn't take the bike for a spin due to snow and ice but after a good warm up outside of my garage I found the engine to blubber when cracking the throttle and to get the engine to idle I have to have the idle screw all the way in. I suspect I will need to lean the needle jet out. Before I installed the carb I leaned the jet 1/4 turn (counter clockwise) just from what I've been reading here, guys say the carb is sent out on the rich side. Lectron guys how much more do you suspect I need to go to get rid of the blubber and correct the idle screw setting? Thanks for your input in advance.
Steve-oh
, I couldn't take the bike for a spin due to snow and ice but after a good warm up outside of my garage I found the engine to blubber when cracking the throttle and to get the engine to idle I have to have the idle screw all the way in. I suspect I will need to lean the needle jet out. Before I installed the carb I leaned the jet 1/4 turn (counter clockwise) just from what I've been reading here, guys say the carb is sent out on the rich side. Lectron guys how much more do you suspect I need to go to get rid of the blubber and correct the idle screw setting? Thanks for your input in advance.Steve-oh
huskybear
Husqvarna
Pro Class
On my wr150 I had to turn out the metering rod 1 and a half turns from the base setting to get rid of the rich bog off idle,runs great now! I also had to turn in the idle screw quite a bit for it to idle initially.After turning out the rod,I had to turn it back out. I watched the lectron tuning videos on you tube and videos # 3,4, and 5 talk about proper slide height at idle. My slide height is very close to what it should be according to the videos and the bike runs great. Hope this helps,Installed my new Lectron Carb today, started on the third kick
Steve-oh
steadydirt
Husqvarna
AA Class
Thanks, yes saw that- curious what they are using these days for Romaniacs and Erzberg
Xcuvator
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Installed my new Lectron Carb today, started on the third kick
Steve-oh
I turned the needle 2 1/4 turns further out on my Lectron/165 install. I plan to go another 1/4 turn or more out of curiosity until it acts lean then go back in.
Steve-oh
Husqvarna
AA Class
Had another crack at setting the needle jet this afternoon. I turned the needle jet another 1/2 turn counter clockwise to lean it out further. The blubber is pretty much gone, and my idle screw is now turned out exactly a 1/2 turn for a more desirable idle. Question is, you fellows that have your Lectron set up where you like it, where is your idle screw set at? 1 full turn out, 2 full turns out? So far I have turned my needle jet 3/4 leaner from its original setting. Just curious about the idle screw setting, thks..
454x
Husqvarna
Pro Class
When you adjust the metering rod to leaner setting you must also adjust the idle(slide) to let less air in.Your doing it right,lower metering rod=lower slide=lower idle. Remeber the idle screw is now your airfuel screw as well.
Yep, you guys got it. I am finding 1/2 to 3/4 turn leaner than they send them. I think it is smart they send the rich as they are EZ to lean and you are not sending someone a lean condition (Damage) Once set you do nothing ever again. My bike has been running perfect for 10 plus rides, never think about the carb any more other than how freaking fantastic it runs.
wallybean
Mini-Sponsor
I have sent my 38mm Lectron to be tested by the ultimate critic of carb changes. If it can sway even him with its outstanding performance, efficiency, and economy then anyone on the fence has no excuse for ignoring the glaring advantages. I know I am going through withdrawal and realllllllly hope Kelly can send me a new one ASAP before I disintegrate into a drooling puddle of gooo.
Vinduro
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I tested mine a bit today. I rode in the back parking lot of the shop. I had needle adjusted 3/4 of a turn leaner than stock per what I have read here. It was OK but had a sudden lean surge in power at times like a lean spot. So I richened it back to only 1/2 turn leaner than stock. I had to idle the bike down when I cranked it up. It seemed better. Boy does it rev also. I can't wait to test it in actual offroad riding. Still won't be able to for a couple more weeks. Don't tell the wife I was riding even in the parking lot ! She wouldn't be happy. But the therapist says I am doing great and ahead of schedule on my new shoulder.
