• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Resistance Reinstalling Water Drain Bolt TE 310

2wheeler

2wheeler

Husqvarna
AA Class
About half way in there is a lot of resistance. Definitely do not want to shear this thing! :eek:

I'm using an 8mm box end wrench about 4 inches long. It did require use of the wrench to remove the bolt no finger loosening.

Some white crystal gook is visible on the cylinder threads. Have tried to get some of it out with q-tips. Rubbed some WD-40 on the bolt threads using a q-tip.

This guy is just below the exhaust. How shall I deal with this thing?

Water Drain.PNG
 
Maybe a thread chaser. That's not a thread tap itself its just for cleaning up existing threads. Use of a little anti-seize on the screw threads on the next installation might be a good idea. The white crystal gook is the start of dissimilar metal corrosion. May be a good idea to also switch coolants if this is happening.
 
Weird. Your bike is a 2014 yes? Shouldn't be too much corrosion build up to cause an issue. Did you reuse the brass crush washer that was on there?
 
Thanks guys. Yes reveille a 2014 with about 160ish miles. Have the brass crush washer on the bolt. That was the factory fill I drained. Haven't filled with tap water to flush it yet. So she is in climate control, empty, and buttoned up with the water drain bolt half way in. I saw the white gook on the bottom of the cylinder threads.
 
I had that white junk on the radiator cap of my 650 when it was brand new. Flushed it thoroughly and changed coolant right away. My dealer had no idea what was in it. Chase the threads and make sure the threads on the bolt are good. If in doubt buy a die and chase them too. Anti seize is a good idea. I am changing over to XF Coolant on all my bikes.
 
Thanks. Will see if I can source a thread chaser and die today. There is about 2" from the cylinder to frame. In the event I am not successful will need to haul it to a nearby shop. How long can she sit buttoned up with nothing in the coolant system? WP_000891.jpgWP_000892.jpgWP_000901.jpgWP_000891.jpgWP_000892.jpgWP_000901.jpg
 
+1 on the bolt.

I would get a new bolt from the hardware store and see if that threads in any easier before chasing the threads. If so then just buy a new replacement bolt from the dealer. That metal is SOFT and using sacrificial bolt may work. You just don't want to buy a new bolt from the dealer and use it BEFORE you try. You can already see from your picture the threads are chewed up.If you do chase it. Be really careful getting it started. It's easy to chew things up.

Just as an FYI you should hand turn that bolt all the way in before putting an 8 mm socket on it. They used some really soft metal on these bikes.

Joe
 
Glad to know she can sit empty of coolant or water. I really was not sure.

Sized up the factory bolt at 6mm x 1 course and got a testing bolt from the hardware store. The factory bolt went right into the sizing tool with no problem. Double checked the two bolts by touching the threads together and they mated.

Got home and cleaned up the factory bolt with PB Blaster. I pulled a lot of white gook out of the cylinder with q-tips and a tiny gun barrel brush. Rotated the brush in and out as would a bolt.

Both the factory bolt and the new test bolt go in 3/16" or 4.76mm before resistance. The factory bolt has 5/16 thread without the washer. So it doesn't have far to go.

The cylinder threads have a the same coloration as the bolt. Dark at the very end.

Tomorrow morning going by Fastenal to see what they have.

I am all out of ideas other than to do as you guys said and chase the threads and get a new bolt.

If Fastenal can provide both is there any reason not to use their bolt and the factory washer?

(Note to self: Never remove this bolt again) :banghead:
 
A quality fastener is just that. If its the proper fastener to use for the job it can be sourced from anywhere. Aftermarket hardware and fastener kits for engines are quite the big industry and have been for years. Usually better quality than original. Look at ARP (Automotive Racing Products) they have built an empire providing superior quality fasteners to the Automotive racing, Aerospace, Aeronautical, Motorcycle Racing, industries for years. I have studded every racing engine I have ever owned with their superior hardware. Everything they sale meets or exceeds the original spec hardware by far. They do Metric hardware also of course but what you have should be able to be replaced at any local hardware store if you purchase the proper grade hardware. by the best one available. They will tell you which ones are the hardest material of their available assortment.

Of course there are the purists, who would rather go themselves and also have you go to the dealer to buy the proper .45 cent original replacement, (not including the distance of the trip and your time). Which would come right out of a nut and bolt organizer box in the back room just like any other garage or hardware store has. To each there own.
 
Great! Yes I recall ARP from my LS1 racing enthusiast friends. I have just driven mine and added a few mods.

The only concern with the local dealer is they are a selling machine. And I get a feeling they are dropping the brand while a local KTM dealer now has a Husqvarna sign as well with the new ones on the floor.

The Fastenal guy is well versed in his trade. I have purchased other quality hardware from them.

Regarding a chaser, there is only 2" between the end of the drain hole and the frame. ughh
 
Thread chasers are relatively short and stubby in length, most of them have a hexed head to fit in tight places rather than a shank like a tap has and the notched threaded portion is short also. It should fit no problem.

Your Fastenal dealer should easily have what you need and I must say you are lucky to have one nearby.

I live in a rural area on the Border where things are hard to find and after bringing a framed picture of one of my Race Cars to my local family owned hardware store. They decided to help sponsor my Drag Race Car operation because for all these years that had gone by while building over 7 or 8 full tube chassis cars. I had been buying boxes and boxes of tiny specialty button head fasteners and rivnuts etc. for chassis work and installing hand formed aluminum interior panels. They seldom ever had what I was really looking for. They used to think I was nuts.
 
LOL funny story about your race car adventures. No doubt you have had some good times!

Bet you have some fun riding in your area! Sometimes I wished I lived out so I could just hit some woods. Way more gates and no trespassing signs than when I was a teen. Have to trailer to the good stuff.

That is great to know chasers are shorter in length. I have only used a tap before. Yes I am hoping for a 'break' at Fastenal. Gotta say this adventure has provided some anxious moments. Got some arm and hand surgery soon. Don't want to be pulling motorcycle engines for a bolt that is 1/8" from seating.
 
Have a look at the http://www.mcmaster.com under taps you'll see a link at the top of the page "more about taps". it's a good overview. Like Big Timmy pointed out they have a lot taps. Most people use hand taps and you're looking for something with a short tapper as you don't really want to run the tape deep.

McMaster isn't super far from me and it's an impressive warehouse that has everything they sell in stock. The guys ride around on bike to collect the orders.
 
Great info! It appears the short chasers are everywhere but here.

Fastenal ordered M6-1 x 8mm flange. It is 10mm long while the factory bolt is 8mm long. No go on the thread chaser at Fastenal.

So I will trailer her to a shop Saturday morning, they will chase the threads.

Could the extra 2mm in length be a problem?

Once the threads are chased, should I run water through the water pump or lower hose connection and tilt her booty up in the air allowing the water to flush out the water drain plug hole? Then flush as normal, then fill with coolant?
 
If it goes in by hand it should be fine. If not file the end off .080 or 2 mm. or get the proper length screw somewhere else. It isn't a critical fastener.
You should be good to go.
Sears has a nice set of thread restoring chasers for about 50.00 online or in store among other places, Harbor freight tools, Grainger, etc.
 
2wheeler said:
Great info! It appears the short chasers are everywhere but here.

Fastenal ordered M6-1 x 8mm flange. It is 10mm long while the factory bolt is 8mm long. No go on the thread chaser at Fastenal.

So I will trailer her to a shop Saturday morning, they will chase the threads.

Could the extra 2mm in length be a problem?

Once the threads are chased, should I run water through the water pump or lower hose connection and tilt her booty up in the air allowing the water to flush out the water drain plug hole? Then flush as normal, then fill with coolant?
Click to expand...

Yes, flush it with water until it comes out clean. I flushed my old coolant out until it ran out of the drain clean. Then filled it up with water and ran it for about 30-40 seconds. The water came out nasty again so I repeated the drain fill run dump and it finally flushed clean. Then with drain bolt out used about 50psi compressed air to blow out residual water, let it sit for a few minutes after leaning bike left and right and repeat blow out. Then I let it sit for a few hours with radiator cap and drain bolt out, did one final air blow, replaced bolt and filled. Probably a little more extreme than most, but my stock coolant had turned a nasty brown color after 1300 miles.
 
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