Reserve/Fuel Sensor

[Johnrg]

My fuel level sensor is on when tank is full. I know a few folks have had this issue. Initially I assumed it was since bike was on it's side stand and tank was low but not the case. While it would be lit after a kick start, it would not light up when electric started. Well, now it is just on in both cases. I assume the switch is stuck/failed. Has anyone repaired the sesnsor or is it just replace the asembly if available at around $47. TIA.

 

[AndrewS]

I see in the wiring diagram that the 2013s also have a resistor inline with the wiring of this sensor. It's possible that one of the legs has broken, which results in the light staying on. It happened to my 2009.

There's a thread where someone explains how to test this before cutting into the harness to get at the resistor. I'll see if I can find it again...

Okay, found it here: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/fuel-reserve-light-refuses-to-go-off.11695/

Although it is particular to the older bikes, the same idea may work if you disconnect the sensor, rather than the fuel pump.

I also wonder, if you had the petcock closed on the right side, would it indicate low fuel, since (I believe) that is where the sensor is located?

Actually, I guess you'd have to have both petcocks closed, as well as the fuel drained from the crossover line, for that to be the case.

 

[Johnrg]

I think mine is the tank sensor itself. I put a multimeter on the leads from the petcock and it appears shorted. Disconnected and running the light is off. Found the part #8000H4008 and have ordered it.

 

[Johnrg]

New sensor/petcock installed and back to normal. Easy fix. Strange thing is the old part seems to test OK on the bench

Just tested the newly installed more fully and yes it's fixed. Stays off till 89 miles on the odometer and then light up. Then goes off after a fill up... ta da!

Hard to say what failed on the old one wires look fine.

 

[2thdrinOR]

So for the mechanical pygmy like myself, to do this the gas tank should be emptied?

 

[Johnrg]

No. Just pull the tank and lean it forward or on the opposite side to the petcock hole. If the tank is full just drain some from the hose from the petcock. You could lean the bike left and close the left petcock and allow the right side to drain down and then swap the right petcock if you don't want to pull the tank.

 

[Trenchcoat85]

So for the mechanical pygmy like myself, to do this the gas tank should be emptied?

hey doc, what problem are you trying to solve?

for fuel level indicators, our bikes use a reed switch which is easy to test on the bike with a multi-meter; also- they're pretty reliable. All other other huskys i've run across use a thermistor.

 

[2thdrinOR]

hey doc, what problem are you trying to solve?

for fuel level indicators, our bikes use a reed switch which is easy to test on the bike with a multi-meter; also- they're pretty reliable. All other other huskys i've run across use a thermistor.

2013/14 TE310R (red head). My amber low fuel light is constantly on, even with full tank of gas. It's not a huge deal, just annoying. I saw another post that said these bikes get 90 miles before a functioning sensor light comes on and then I figure about another 15 miles till empty?

 

[Trenchcoat85]

2013/14 TE310R (red head). My amber low fuel light is constantly on, even with full tank of gas. It's not a huge deal, just annoying. I saw another post that said these bikes get 90 miles before a functioning sensor light comes on and then I figure about another 15 miles till empty?

I think johnrg says that.

On my 310, when the fuel light was "working" (because it's on almost always on now)- would come on at about 20-25miles (with 50-60 miles remaining). which was useless for me. Later, I believe, the pull-up resistor broke, and now the led is on pretty much full time (actually, it's kinda blinks for a bit).

I'm guessing it's your resistor- it's in the wire harness near the regulator I believe; I'd guess one of the leads is broken because of husky's piss-poor design. Solder it, support and see if your fuel reserve led behaves a bit better. Chances are it's going to go from totally useless to semi-useless. but who knows? -johnrg has got the right stuff.

you can test your reed switch by unplugging it and using an Ohm-meter. full tank==open/infinite ohms; empty tank==<2ohms (guessing; might have 'em reversed). All of this while it's still installed in the tank.

 

[Johnrg]

I simply pulled the sensor/petcock and replaced with a new one. Problem gone. $45 part. I gambled and won.

 

[2thdrinOR]

Thanks guys for the info...so glad I finally got the add to ask questions and get answers from the collective wisdom here.

 

[2thdrinOR]

Well, I think I'm going to put the $45 towards a low Seat Concepts seat and just use my trip meter and carry a couple of liter fuel bottles. Thanks for the input guys. Now to get that Kouba link installed...

 

[Trenchcoat85]

Well, I think I'm going to put the $45 towards a low Seat Concepts seat and just use my trip meter and carry a couple of liter fuel bottles. Thanks for the input guys. Now to get that Kouba link installed...

1 liter will get you 10 miles without any effort... and you could stretch it to purt'near 20 miles if you tried (via short shifting, coasting, low speed, steady throttle, maybe without an air filter, high tire pressure, etc). That's 14-25% of your putative range, which should be plenty until you figure things out.

your plan is a good one.