• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Removing a AC cylinder

Bigbill

Bigbill

Husqvarna
Pro Class
I notice every time I pull an air cooled cylinder the vintage earth comes out of the four stud holes. It's caked on the studs from years of riding. This extra dirt gets into everything. The dirt gets in between the opening on the head and cylinder. Now is there an easier way to pull a cylinder to avoid the dirt mess during the disassembly.?
How do you guys deal with it? Do you hang the motor upside down?

I have thought of looking for o rings I could install at the top of the cylinder studs to keep the dirt under a limited control. Maybe put the o rings in the stud hole or use silicone?
 
Bigbill said:
I notice every time I pull an air cooled cylinder the vintage earth comes out of the four stud holes. It's caked on the studs from years of riding. This extra dirt gets into everything. The dirt gets in between the opening on the head and cylinder. Now is there an easier way to pull a cylinder to avoid the dirt mess during the disassembly.?
How do you guys deal with it? Do you hang the motor upside down?

I have thought of looking for o rings I could install at the top of the cylinder studs to keep the dirt under a limited control. Maybe put the o rings in the stud hole or use silicone?
Click to expand...

Yes, flip the bike upside down and remove the cylinder before you take the engine out of the frame.
 
When you do eventually get the cylinder off (I had to use a disc cutter to grind into the barrel and cut through a stud the other day - not for the feint hearted!!!) Upon replacement, apply a film of silicone around the stud and hole at the top of the cylinder. Although this will mean you have to gently break the bond next time, at least the hole will not fill up. We also use plenty of gasket paste around the base gasket to form a film over where the cylinder studs exit the crankcase. This stops the cases rotting if water does get down there....

hope this helps!

Andy
 
Thanks guys I don't see this problem ever covered in the past. I know it's there.

Now what gasket paste do you use on the base gaskets?

How often do you torque the base gaskets?

I'm not sure how many guys relize this but the new bikes need the torque on the base gaskets too.(2t)

I never stop learning. I'm always asking questions looking for different ideas. Being a class A machine tool builder, a car n truck mechanic, and a lead tech in the engineering group for the biggest elevator company in the world I see things from both sides of the fence. As a lead tech we worked on new product development. Plus investigate why things break in the field. The easy fixes can be a tac weld. The hard fixes lead to a redesign. Or finding a vendor to supply what's needed.

The new bikes are complicated to me. The milk truck era was simple. I think the newer bikes are too complicated. Or way over complicated. The super cross factory mechanics must not be sleeping at night. Just my ramblings. You guys need this stuff for your riding style.
 
I use 'Blue Hylomar' on the base gaskets and centre case gasket and Silicone on most other joints and none on the clutch cover...

Andy
 
I put sealant on one side of the clutch cover on the cover side. If I ever have to remove it the gasket stays on the cover and remains reusable in a pinch.
 
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