• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Relkuse Clutch

S

skywalker951

Husqvarna
AA Class
I pickup a new honda crf250x with a relkuse clutch and love it! Thinking of one for my 610, has anyone done this mod and how do you like it?
 
I have a RMS 856 Pro in my 610. The clutch is the one sold for TE 450 510 and WR 250 300. It works very well, actually better than the other two Rekluse clutches I have in Huskys. I set it up with 6 TC balls, the engaement is very positive and the manual over ride feels like a stock clutch.
I don't think it could work any better. As a side benefit, the cable should last forever because there is almost no load on it. I put a shorty lever on and can one finger it.
 
Xcuvator- You are saying you have the Rekluse Pro made for a TE450/510 in your 610!? If so that is awesome. My two 450's (a KTM & Honda) both have the pro model, and I purchased the Core for my wifes TE250. I really do not like the Core version, and it was crazy expensive since it had to have the cover as well. The main issue I have with the core is that it has creep no matter what settings I put it at. No with the cheaper pro model (I have owned three of these) I have never not been able to adjust them to perfection. I would love a pro version in my 630 but I am on the fence since there is no kick start on the bike. It would sure suck not to be able to push start it!
 
I've pickup a RMS-856 Z-Start Pro for my 2009 TE-610 and wanted to inquiry in what tuning works best. My only experience was with a KTM 640 and settled for a low RPM and hard engagement tune. The biggest difference between the KTM and the Husky kit is the number of tungsten balls. The KTM came with 27 TC balls. In your opinion, would the 610 be better severed with more than 6 TC balls. The recommended breakin springs for the TE-510 are a C200L5 and a C150L2. Is that what your running? How does the engagement RPM and engagment rate compare to the tuning guide for the TE-510?

Any help from the community would be very much appreciated.
 
The RMS 856 is made to fit a 450-510 and WR250-300. I spoke to Rekluse and I don't know if they ever recognized the fact that they work in a 610 too. Another member (Hammer I think) was the one to figure it out and do the first install. He said he just followed the 450-510 recomendations.
I have 6 TC balls, C200L4, C150L2 and one .048" drive plate.. I may be replacing the C150L2 with C150M3. I had the C150M3 in before and like the engagement better. The engagement is just a little too soon with the C150L2. The other option would be to remove 2 TC balls and leave the springs alone.
I have put three of these clutches in and I end up changing the springs several times on each one before I decide what I like the best.
I am very happy with the way it works, especially the over ride.
Good luck
 
I phoned Rekluse and talked to Patrick Koether after I found out it work in my 630 and was told to mind my own business and not do R&D for them.

Sorry for trying to sell a few clutches for you.
 
hammer said:
I phoned Rekluse and talked to Patrick Koether after I found out it work in my 630 and was told to mind my own business and not do R&D for them.

Sorry for trying to sell a few clutches for you.
Click to expand...

That's a pretty poor attitude for someone making their living selling parts to a small community like this. He'll want to apologize or accept whatever consequences come from his discussions with you.
 
I also phoned rekluse and they said the 510 clutch would work, however they would not warranty the clutch. They say the 610 puts out to much torque? A owned a 510 and torque was at a premium.
 
skywalker951 said:
I also phoned rekluse and they said the 510 clutch would work, however they would not warranty the clutch. They say the 610 puts out to much torque? A owned a 510 and torque was at a premium.
Click to expand...

I would be surprised if they actually compared the torque. Most likely heard the 610 number and got scared, not knowing that 570=610 in Husky speak.
 
Thanks Xcuvator, the tuning advice is much appreciated.

A note for the thread. Changing from a steel to a tungsten carbide ball is like upping the number of balls by two. A steel ball has a nominal density of approx 0.28 lbs./cu in. and tungsten has a density 0.54 lbs./cu in.

I hope as people tweak their tune, they will post their setting and what lead them to make the change. Since it doesn't appear that Rekluse will be publishing a tuning chart any time soon. :D
 
Teeblatt said:
Thanks Xcuvator, the tuning advice is much appreciated.

A note for the thread. Changing from a steel to a tungsten carbide ball is like upping the number of balls by two. A steel ball has a nominal density of approx 0.28 lbs./cu in. and tungsten has a density 0.54 lbs./cu in.

I hope as people tweak their tune, they will post their setting and what lead them to make the change. Since it doesn't appear that Rekluse will be publishing a tuning chart any time soon. :D
Click to expand...
Be sure to set the gap up at the small end of the spec and check it after riding it for an hour or so. That is why I mentioned the .048" drive plate.
 
Xcuvator said:
Be sure to set the gap up at the small end of the spec and check it after riding it for an hour or so. That is why I mentioned the .048" drive plate.
Click to expand...

Three quick questions, I'm ordering RMS-856 Monday for 09 TE610,

1. Do you have a trick for keeping the oil pump shaft from dropping out when you remove clutch cover with bike on left side? (don't say drain oil and tip bike on right side:D)

I ride mostly sand, very tight woods and some cypress swamp mud (roots & stumps) around home and THINK I want the clutch to drag slightly at idle for engine braking, and engage hard. Sounds like the recommended Med-Hard settings for the 510. I assume I can 1-finger the clutch if it wants to engage too hard in the wet and to back up in tight areas.
2. So, can you describe what your settings, C200L4 /C150L2 w/ 6 TC and 21 steel balls yielded?
3. What RPM does your TE idle?
 
Stolenfant said:
Three quick questions, I'm ordering RMS-856 Monday for 09 TE610,

1. Do you have a trick for keeping the oil pump shaft from dropping out when you remove clutch cover with bike on left side? (don't say drain oil and tip bike on right side:D)

I ride mostly sand, very tight woods and some cypress swamp mud (roots & stumps) around home and THINK I want the clutch to drag slightly at idle for engine braking, and engage hard. Sounds like the recommended Med-Hard settings for the 510. I assume I can 1-finger the clutch if it wants to engage too hard in the wet and to back up in tight areas.
2. So, can you describe what your settings, C200L4 /C150L2 w/ 6 TC and 21 steel balls yielded?
3. What RPM does your TE idle?
Click to expand...
I anwered you questions in the PM you sent.
Good luck
 
I have an RMS-856 on order as well, for my '08 TE610. Hopefully I'll be able to get some time to put it in later this month.
 
huzar said:
I have an RMS-856 on order as well, for my '08 TE610. Hopefully I'll be able to get some time to put it in later this month.
Click to expand...
When did you order? The have had one of the 6 or so springs on backorder. You may want to request shipmet of the springs they do have. I am.
 
Found one on eBay that had been used for ~10 hours... judging by the description, I think it was the same one that was posted here a couple of months ago. Figure I'm not risking much for $350
 
huzar said:
Found one on eBay that had been used for ~10 hours... judging by the description, I think it was the same one that was posted here a couple of months ago. Figure I'm not risking much for $350
Click to expand...
Mine is scheduled to be here Thursday, and I'll be installing Saturday with the C200L4, C150L2 six TC balls and 21 Steel ones. I'll let you know where I get engagement. What springs do you have with your kit? I may be trying the C150L3 or M3 whatever it is that was Xcuvator finished with. My bike idles a little higher than his.
 
Right now that's all still greek to me... maybe I should just bring the bike down to Skoals and ask Xcuvator to help with the install, given he appears to be the resident expert on this ;)
 
huzar said:
Right now that's all still greek to me... maybe I should just bring the bike down to Skoals and ask Xcuvator to help with the install, given he appears to be the resident expert on this ;)
Click to expand...
Pretty good video's on the Rekluse website. Of course I say that before doing the install myself:)
 
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