• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Rekluse Z-Start Pro issue

Huskinator said:
I had a problem like this once. It turned out to be the clutch control rod. Sometimes the end gets smashed and also the metal spacer ball can get deformed. This will shorten the rod and cause symptoms like you are describing. When You are checking the gap on the rekluse plates also check the rod and ball for damage.
Click to expand...

I'll check that out after I bleed the clutch.
 
That missing fluid in the master went somewhere, you probably can bleed it and buy some time but I'd bet the slave cylinder may be going south. There is a reason there is aftermarket slave parts from 7602 and Zipty.
 
sharpie1 said:
That missing fluid in the master went somewhere, you probably can bleed it and buy some time but I'd bet the slave cylinder may be going south. There is a reason there is aftermarket slave parts from 7602 and Zipty.
Click to expand...

That's what I was figuring. So how do I tell if the slave is shot? Can I just get a piston from 7602 or would a new zipty housing be needed? Just need to know what to look for. I would think that if I take the slave off and I see clutch oil that its leaking?
 
You will not be able to tell by looking at it if it's leaking. If the snap ring broke the slave housing you will see that. If the stock slave housing is still good you will only need the 7602 slave cylinder piston. The Zip Ty housing is a good upgrade if you have the money.
 
ahHA!! I've had the exact same issue except without the creeping forward issue. Also have a z-start pro. THis is a "new to me bike" and have been gradually doing all necessities ie(changing fluids, bleeding brakes etc). On my last ride (only had a couple of road rides with one off road experience on it so far), I noticed that the clutch does not engage or over ride at all...pulled master cylinder off and also found oil to be super low. The search for 10w mineral oil began....found...topped off master cylinder and bled system, top down (seemed to work). Will test this today to see if it is the issue. Interesting regarding upgrade...will do this as well..if levels drop.
Pressure in clutch lever is now more firm vs completely empty. Let's see if this works...if not...will do a back fill process to remove air..if that doesn't work...upgrading slave cylinder etc. Let me know how yours turned out?
 
i'm going to work on the bike in a little while so i'll let you know how it turns out. with all the reading i was doing, i went ahead and ordered a slave cylinder from clay earlier in the week. i'm guessing since it has to travel cross country, i'll see it mid week next week.
 
i unbolted the slave from the bike and inspected the inside of the slave housing. everything looked pretty good. no damage anywhere. i didn't take the cylinder out of the house, i figured i didn't need to. i then bled the clutch with the mityvac and put everything back together. i topped off the reservoir and started up the bike. i first noticed that on the right side of the clutch reservoir, every time i pulled the clutch in and out, some mineral oil would drain out of what looks like a little weep hole. can you guys confirm what this is. if need be, i'll snap a pic of it.
anyway, i pulled in the clutch, put the bike into first gear and for the most part, it just rev's like it should. every few so often, when i rev the bike, it will slowly rock forward but very slight.
so as of now, it seems to be back to normal. i just don't remember what normal was and where the clutch engaged when i first installed the rekluse. i'm pretty sure with the rekluse, that you need to pull the clutch in a lot more compared to the stock clutch.
since i rode around the driveway some, i'm going to let the bike cool then check the gap, the frictions disks, drive plates and push rod and ball.
 
I now have a working clutch with my Rekluse...just topped it off with SAE 10 mineral oil and bled it in similar process as brakes..problem solved...so far...will watch it..
 
one step forward and 2 steps back. like i mentioned before, the bike was acting normal after i bled the clutch. after the bike cooled down, i opened up the clutch and checked that out. the frictions were good, the drive plates were good but the gap seemed to be a little to much (by a hair). i was able to push both feeler gauges in with slight tension. so i put in one of the thicker drive plates as per the instructions and put everything back together.
just as i tightened up the last bolt, here comes a package from 7602!!! perfect timing. so i figured i would put the new 7602 slave in and that was a piece of cake.
after i got everything bled, i started it up and there was no forward movement when in first gear, clutch pulled in and revving the bike.
now for the 2 steps back......
i just rode the bike around the driveway and down the road some and the clutch slips a tremendous amout now. it just slips and slips and slips then finally catches. definatley not the way its supposed to work.
so i put the bike back on its side and took out the thicker drive plate and put the one i originally had in it. once again put everything back together and i had the same result...super clutch slippage.
so the only difference from when i had it working after the first initial bleed and now is that the 7602 racing slave cylinder.
i did notice that prior to installing the 7602 slave, it was a little beefier than the stocker. beefier i mean by being thicker, prob like 3/16 of an inch or so.
i didn't have any more time to work on it so i put everything away.
this is what i'm thinking is the issue is. something is putting pressure on the push rod and that is causing the rekluse to slip a lot. a friend mentioned to me to check my clutch play and to set it all the way out, check that i did not over fill the reservoir and he said something about different gaskets on the slave housing. i may have over filled the reservoir because when i put the cover on, fluid came out of the top.
i'm done messing with it today but what do you guys think?

definately happy with the fast shipping from 7602, nice one clay!!
 
after finding a few threads and speaking with clay (7602 racing), i learned that due to the new slave being bigger than stock, the new cylinder pushes on the rod just a hair too much. that is what makes the clutch slip like crazy. my options were to cut down the rod or get a smaller ball bearing. i opted to get a smaller bearing. so after searching for a few hours, i came up with two sizes (i'm sure if i searched more i could have broadened my range). one being 5/32 and the other 3/16. i did the math on another members cutting and it was just about 5/32. now remember the one with the rekluse is 7/32.
i put the 5/32 in and bled the clutch. now the bike is back to the way it was. i think i just may have to bleed the clutch again. after i was done bleeding with the mityvac, i pumped the lever and noticed some small bubbles coming up in the reservoir. i decided to just tie the clutch lever open over night and that should make all the bubbles come to the top. i just didn't feel like messing with the bike anymore today.
anyway, everything is back to normal so i'm happy!!!:thumbsup: thanks again to everyone for their help and input
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top