• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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Rekluse Z-Start Pro issue

kjclark7

kjclark7

Husqvarna
AA Class
i've got a 08 te510 and last year i installed a rekluse zstart pro. i've been very happy with it and up until now, i've had no issues. i noticed that when i rode my first enduro last week, the bike was creeping forward while in first gear sitting stationary. i didn't really take much notice to it then and just rode the bike. well today i took the bike out just to clean off the sand and i noticed that when i pulled the clutch in all the way and blipped the throttle, the bike moved forward. just to be clear, i have the clutch pulled in all the way (not half) and the bike moves forward when throttle is applied (just like if the clutch was not pulled in). it used to not be like that so i don't know what changed.
does anyone know what the issue is and how to remedy it? i have yet to open up and look at the clutch plates but i figured i would pick your brains first. thanks in advance.
 
Rekluse EXP with a hydraulic clutch reqires the gap to be set - and occasionally checked. If you don't have the installation and adjustment directions they are on the Rekluse site.
 
not sure if the slave cylinder is going bad or not but the zstart pro does need a certain gap. i'll have to check that and go from there.
how can i tell if the slave cylinder is shot or not?
 
If you check the gap on the Z-start Pro and it's within spec and the clutch fluid level is normal, it's the slave cylinder. If the slave is bad, I would upgrade to the Zip Ty slave housing and the 7602 slave cylinder piston.
 
If the Rekluse was working fine before it's most likely a bad slave. The cheapest fix would be to get the o-ring from George at Uptite.
 
Xcuvator said:
`When the Rekluse goes out of spec from wear, it engages at a higher RPM.
Click to expand...

Agreed - but the bike is surging when at a stop in gear which indicates the adjustment is a little off and if that is fixed it may not drag when the clutch lever is pulled. If the clutch still drags after adjustment then the clutch operation needs to be looked into.
 
MikeB said:
Agreed - but the bike is surging when at a stop in gear which indicates the adjustment is a little off and if that is fixed it may not drag when the clutch lever is pulled. If the clutch still drags after adjustment then the clutch operation needs to be looked into.
Click to expand...

I misunderstood. I thought you said it would surge with the clutch pulled in when blipping the throttle.
 
i called rekluse tech support today and explained to them the issue i was having. he said i should first bleed the clutch line and see if that corrects the issue. he said if that does not fix the problem, then look at the drive plates and make sure they all are straight. if any have a bend/wobble to them, that could cause the issue. i probably won't be able to mess with it until this weekend but i will try bleeding first. then open up the clutch and check the plates and gap.
now to reiterate, the problem i'm having is when the bike is stationary (or moving for that matter) and the clutch is pulled all the way in, the bike still moves forward when throttle is applied. it should just rev (like being in neutral) but it moves forward.
the reason why this concerns me is that being a somewhat newer rider to 2 wheels offroad (2 years), i sometimes get whisky throttle and use the clutch to kill the power and save my rear end. otherwise, the bike rides/shifts fine. i just don't have a clutch lever to override the clutch. make more sense?
if all that checks out, i guess i may have a bad slave cylinder.
oh, what type of fluid is in our clutches??? dot3/4/5 or mineral oil?
 
kjclark7 said:
i called rekluse tech support today and explained to them the issue i was having. he said i should first bleed the clutch line and see if that corrects the issue. he said if that does not fix the problem, then look at the drive plates and make sure they all are straight. if any have a bend/wobble to them, that could cause the issue. i probably won't be able to mess with it until this weekend but i will try bleeding first. then open up the clutch and check the plates and gap.
now to reiterate, the problem i'm having is when the bike is stationary (or moving for that matter) and the clutch is pulled all the way in, the bike still moves forward when throttle is applied. it should just rev (like being in neutral) but it moves forward.
the reason why this concerns me is that being a somewhat newer rider to 2 wheels offroad (2 years), i sometimes get whisky throttle and use the clutch to kill the power and save my rear end. otherwise, the bike rides/shifts fine. i just don't have a clutch lever to override the clutch. make more sense?
if all that checks out, i guess i may have a bad slave cylinder.
oh, what type of fluid is in our clutches??? dot3/4/5 or mineral oil?
Click to expand...
OK, makes sense.
mineral oil.
 
i've got bmw mineral oil from my gs1200. i'm sure that will be good enough? having never messed with the slave cylinder before, anyone have any pics or how to's to change it out?
 
I use the cylinder to bleed from the bottom. Fill the cylinder through the bleed hole with a syringe with the cylinder removed. Then compress the piston to push the fluid up to the master cylinder, add fluid if needed till the reservoir is full, then release the piston. Verify reservoir level and should be good to go. Check the slave piston snap ring groove while the slave cylinder is off. It is common for them to break, especially with an auto clutch, because the piston can be mistakenly over extended by the rider. Don't pull the clutch in unless the engine is running-
 
i'm a visual person, any tutorials of what you just explained. i'm sure i will figure it out once i dive into it but seeing is believing for me.
would it be best to get the piston from 7602 to upgrade? would i need anything else?
 
If you remove the three 6mm bolts that hold the slave cylinder on you can see if the snap ring groove is good. Before you order a piston you need to find out if that is all you need. The snap ring is all that the piston has for a stop and on the stock cylinder it isn't very robust considering what it has to do.
Zipty Racing makes a very good replacement cylinder. I have one on my 450.
 
the zipty racing replacement cylinder would come with the snap ring or is that seperate? any difference between the zipty one and the 7602?
as far as bleeding goes, it seems that a lot of people do the syringe method from bottom up. i have a mityvac, is there a disadvantage of doing it that way or is it just preference?
thanks again for all the info, its much appreciated.
 
**update**
i was up early this morning to make an airport run and when i got back, i figured i would investigate a little. i just popped off the clutch master cylinder to see how the fluid looked and found that it just barely covered the bottom of the reservoir. i took sucked out the old oil, cleaned the inside of the reservoir and filled it up with the bmw mineral oil that i had. i put the cover back on and it seems like the clutch lever firmed up a little. with it being 6:45 when i did this, i did not start the bike up and try it out. don't think my wife, kids or neighbors would appreciate the arrow exhaust note as a wake up call.
i then popped open the front brake reservoir and that too was low. so that was topped off and i'll probably do a flush of that later also.
i hope that was my problem and not something else but i'll see if i can figure it out later.
i'm a little disappointed in myself that i haven't checked those levels sooner. i keep up on the engine oil, coolant and everything else, just forgot about the brake/clutch. which reminds me, i have to do the gs soon. looks like a brake/clutch flush this coming weekend for the bikes! might as well add in my wifes fz6 to the mix also. anyone else want in???
 
just went out and started the bike up and it still moved forward with the clutch pulled all the way in. i was able to spin the rear tire while the bike was locked in on the handy lift. i was hoping that was the quick fix but i'll have to bleed it in the next few days. i'll keep you posted.
 
I had a problem like this once. It turned out to be the clutch control rod. Sometimes the end gets smashed and also the metal spacer ball can get deformed. This will shorten the rod and cause symptoms like you are describing. When You are checking the gap on the rekluse plates also check the rod and ball for damage.
 
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