• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st Rekluse question.

Glenn haynes said:
I'm pretty sure he was talking about the fww taking out the hit,rekluse should not effect the power at all if it set up right,hence the reason I go with the heavier wieghts. If shouldn't slip any where much past idle. a fully locked rekluse will not change the power.
Click to expand...
Yes your right, the FWW and the Lectron carb are what made the 300 more tamer.. The Rekluse and race head were the first 2 mods I did before even riding the bike, winter projects... The power band did hit much harder back then but now it just seems more smoother with a ton of power. I can't say as I'm a 100% sold on the FWW yet.
 
Steve-oh said:
Blair7 how did you adapt the ktm master cylinder to fit onto the WR300?
Click to expand...

I made a bracket with four holes from a bit of scrap alloy from work. My bike is in storage at the moment unfortunatly so I cant take a photo for you yet, but basically the holes on the MC are 50mm apart and the WR bracket has holes 40mm apart (I'm pretty sure it's that way around) so two holes to mount the bracket to the bike and two to mount the MC to the bracket. I found the idea on here somewhere in a previous post and that one has a pic, shouldn't be too hard to find. :thumbsup:
 
Steve-oh said:
I found in panic situations I would hit the none existence foot brake then grab the LHRB...that 1/2 second delay cost me a broken collar bone last year. I'm not sure it's best when racing to have a dedicated LHRB, to many quick decisions, at least for me. Although I did like the LHRB for tight single track slow going stuff and tricky down hills when I needed both feet down. I think a dual brake set up would be the ticket. I rode for about 4 hours in the mountains last weekend and don't recall using the clutch lever for anything other than starting the bike in gear. The bike can pop the front wheel straight up from a dead stop with out using the clutch lever, I real haven't had a situation yet where I need to pull the clutch in rev the motor to the moon and pop the clutch to get going. This bike just pulls and pulls. The engine just won't stall with the Rekluse, Lectron and FWW. However it has tamed the power band hit down. But I know there is no loss in power as the hills we were climbing proved that.
Click to expand...



I still use the LHRB..... but before ever hitting the woods I rode in the pasture for a couple of hours to get "it" in my head.;.... Riding the motard takes a little time to get used to the clutch lever tho . LOL
 
Glenn haynes said:
I'm pretty sure he was talking about the fww taking out the hit,rekluse should not effect the power at all if it set up right,hence the reason I go with the heavier wieghts. If shouldn't slip any where much past idle. a fully locked rekluse will not change the power.
Click to expand...



This..... when your on the gas it's just a regular clutch. The newer EXP models have great clutch feel for those that need it.
 
biggest downside of the A/C is no bump-starts & if you crash on that nasty hillclimb no engine brake when you bullhorn it back down the hill. Well unless you have the LHRB of course. LOL
 
BadMotoWeazal said:
biggest downside of the A/C is no bump-starts & if you crash on that nasty hillclimb no engine brake when you bullhorn it back down the hill. Well unless you have the LHRB of course. LOL
Click to expand...

Bump starting is a big deal to me. I purposely park to bump whenever possible.
I think the LHRB will be of more value to me than the Rekluse.
 
sabortooth said:
Bump starting is a big deal to me. I purposely park to bump whenever possible.
I think the LHRB will be of more value to me than the Rekluse.
Click to expand...
You can bump start it by loosening the cable at the perch with exp, but That would be for situations were you need a bump start. Kind of a pain to have to do it every time.
 
Glenn haynes said:
You can bump start it by loosening the cable at the perch with exp, but That would be for situations were you need a bump start. Kind of a pain to have to do it every time.
Click to expand...

Should note its not so easy top bump start a hydraulic clutch arrangement though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top