Redhead 310 wont start when hot

[Soderberg]

I sold my 2011 310 in October and bought a new 2014. The old bike always started, no matter what. The 2014 starts after half a second when cold, but is a pain in the ass when it has been driven more than 2-3 minutes. Works smooth as long as its running but as soon as I get it to stop of some reason it takes between 30 sec to 1, 5 minutes to get it running again. Had three stops in a 3 hour competition a while ago. It delayed me at least 4 minutes because of this. Every practise a couple of stops make me furious. Sometimes it is close that the battery goes dead before the bike starts again. If this continues I will soon need a new starting motor and also a new heart to my body cause of rage.
Ola

 

[Tinken]

Check your valve lash.

 

[Soderberg]

It has been like this since new, now 16 hours on it. Shouldnt the valves be adjusted from the factory?

 

[Tinken]

It has been like this since new, now 16 hours on it. Shouldnt the valves be adjusted from the factory?

If they were adjusted too tight from the factory, then when the valves heat and stretch, they will release compression making it difficult to start when hot.

 

[Rob1965]

That happened to mine. After approx 15 hours, my valves were way off.

 

[Aaron8]

When it doesn't start: do you hear the fuel spin up when you turn the key on? If not, most likely fuel pump failure. I had to replace the one on my '11 te310.

 

[Johnrg]

My intake were .05 and .06 at 700 miles. Would spin up but not start at times when hot. Adjuested to spec, .15, and not been an issue since.

 

[STEVEL]

Does anyones TXC/TE 250/310 2013 spin up on the starter with the clutch in and in gear?

I have clutch drag a little so impossible, ive read to put Mobil 1 0w40 car oil so i will order some. Is this the same as Mobil 1 and suitable for bikes?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111267124017?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

or

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=181292699442&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:GB:1123


I also seems to have 'done in' another Sprag Clutch, is this common?

I have the the revised starter gears fitted with new starter and sprag but only lasted 8 weeks!

And what are the BEST valve clearances please, TINKEN are u 'the man'?! Thanks

 

[STEVEL]

If they were adjusted too tight from the factory, then when the valves heat and stretch, they will release compression making it difficult to start when hot.

Hi but u say set clearances closer on exhaust decomp side yes?

What clearances do u use?

Please see post above also thanks

 

[fire1998]

My 13 TXC 310 had a hard time starting hot till I put a 5 amp Turntech battery on it. Hell this past weekend bike was smoking hot and stalling and bike always fired up. Try a stronger battery.

 

[STEVEL]

My 13 TXC 310 had a hard time starting hot till I put a 5 amp Turntech battery on it. Hell this past weekend bike was smoking hot and stalling and bike always fired up. Try a stronger battery.

It has a 6.3 amp Yuasa battery with 130CCA so no problem there, its kicking it up when Hot thats the problem also

 

[Tinken]

Check valve lash, set within manufacture spec.

 

[STEVEL]

Check valve lash, set within manufacture spec.

All valve clearances were set when new starter/sprag clutch/re-map were done, the exhaust de-comp wasnt set closer as recommended i dont think, what do they all need to be set at thanks

 

[STEVEL]

Check valve lash, set within manufacture spec.

Ok exhausts are both .25 (010) and inlet .18 (007) and .15 (006).

On the exhaust side a smaller gauge feels ok but the bigger sizes just keep pushing in then top out at .25, surely i cant compress the valve spring with a feeler gauge!!??

So with my gaps only one bang on maybe

I have to get to TDC on kick and have a full kick to start when warm/hot, i dont need TDC when cold!

Surely my gaps as they are wont hinder it being kicked up easy? (leccy start failed again)

Thoughts anyone

 

[Johnrg]

Decompressor was hardly working w/ left exhaust at .229. In spec but the problem. Tightened and problem solved. Since, I have had no start issues kick start or electric.

 

[STEVEL]

Decompressor was hardly working w/ left exhaust at .229. In spec but the problem. Tightened and problem solved. Since, I have had no start issues kick start or electric.

OK well it feels like im forcing it upto .25 and even got .28mm, is it possible im compressing the spring/valve with the feeler gauges?

I tried to go higher on intake but topped out as above, i will measure shims and try others

 

[Mike-AK]

I hate it when you can't get a hot readhead started. Did you check the alcohol level?

 

[STEVEL]

Decompressor was hardly working w/ left exhaust at .229. In spec but the problem. Tightened and problem solved. Since, I have had no start issues kick start or electric.

Remeasured and decomp at 009/.229 so took down to 007/.18 fingers crossed!!

 

[ray_ray]

I also seems to have 'done in' another Sprag Clutch, is this common?

Hope you get around this starting issue ...

What is this Sprag clutch issue you referred to?

 

[STEVEL]

Took decomp valve clearance to 005 in end but found that my Fan Temp sensor was at fault, i mistakenly unplugged instead of my engine temp sensor to test and it fired straight away when unable beforehand, now it doesnt pop n cut out and then not re-start for 1-2-5-10-15 mins as did before, still not a perfect starter but wayyyyyyyyy better and most will take 30 secs if stalled and hot!