• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

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All 2st Recluse riding tips/questions

ks9mm

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hello gang,

Looking for some riding tips with recluse clutch

I am loving the no stall feature, but what do you do when you need to raise front wheel to jump over log or something? Especially with this super hard clutch pull and little feel?

Is there any way to lighten up clutch pull with recluse exp?

Also, what's the proper way to ride through deep sand?
 
I installed a core EXP on my 310 and I was out today getting a feel for it. You can pretty much ignore the clutch lever from what I am finding out. I was practicing lofting the front wheel in 1st, 2nd and 3rd. Never touched the clutch once. In 1st gear it lifts the front wheel with ease as long as I am rolling a bit. The Rekluse will do the work for you if you let it. Mine came with a hydraulic clutch slave and the clutch pull feels the same as before. If you have a cable pull then I can see what you mean.
 
Hmmm..help me understand something pls, how does it work with hydro clutch? I thought you have to maintain some tension on the recluse to make it work.. How can you maintain tension on hydroclutch?


So you are bouncing the bike and gunning it to lift front wheel?
 
Not sure how the hydro clutch part works TBH. My guess is the install gap is paramount while setting it up though. I don't need to bounce anything to loft the front wheel, just roll the throttle and the Rekluse slips the clutch and does all the work for me. 1-3 gears it is easy to wheelie. From a dead stop it won't lift the wheel from what I have tried so far but I am just getting used to it. I may be able to pull i the clutch manually, rev the throttle and pop it to lift the wheel still but unsure at this point.
 
Two different set ups here, the 4 stroke uses aadjustable slave cylinder that allows you to adjust the rekluse. For our cable clutch 2 strokes you adjust the cable to set the rekluse. The 4 Stroke can use the exp pro that does not affect clutch pull but the pro is not offered for the 2 strokes. I run just the exp in my 300 and a clutch arm extension to make the pull easy. On the 165 I use an easy pull clutch lever and a special exp set up from Fred Wilmington of Wilmington Powersports that works well. In both cases you can still use the clutch normally and with the 300 no clutch and a blip of the throttle will get me over about anything. It takes some break in and the only oil I like is rotella to keep high speed clutch slip yo a minimum. You'll need to keep an eye on your adjustment while things are breaking in but I assure you both my bikes would be laying on top of you if gas it from a dead stop. I guess I don't ride sand or anything else any differently with a rekluse, kinda forget it's there until I need it.
 
Thanks chums! Can you pls elaborate a bit on the clutch arm extension to make pull lighter on 300?

Thanks!
 
That device will help in quite a few different when on the trails ... Like the other day when I had to cross around a tight spot over a small creek bridge and was up against a tree ... it was very awkward and I had to put my clutch hand out to hold the bike up against the tree aor something .... The bike just held its place till I was ready to touch the throttle and ease over the bridge ... And it worked very well crossing over ...

What can also happen is this same situation, is that as your are easying around an obstacle like this, you have to be able to shut the throttle off to spot the bike to stop ir be able to walk behind the bike to keep the throttle under control ... In my case, as the bike was easy away from me, I was twisting the throttle more and more .. Sort of a slow-motion whiskey throttle at .01 MPH...
 
I do not have a Rekluse, but:

what do you do when you need to raise front wheel to jump over log or something? Especially with this super hard clutch pull and little feel?

I don't use the clutch to wheelie over stuff at speed on the trail, I just give the throttle a "flick" and smoothly shift my weight a bit and give the bars a "tug." I would expect the same would work for a Rekluse. I do use the clutch to loft the front over things at very low speed, like trials-ish obstacles or to do a wheelie turn.

Also, what's the proper way to ride through deep sand?

A Rekluse shouldn't make any difference here. The biggest things with sand are constant throttle and having a light touch on the bike and letting it move around some without fighting it. Chopping the throttle or grabbing the front brake are not good, and if you fight the bike to try to make it go straight it'll wear you out right quick.

You'll have lots of opportunity to practice your sand riding at the enduro next weekend. :D

Can you pls elaborate a bit on the clutch arm extension to make pull lighter on 300?

See this post: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2011-wr300-bomb-proof-mods.29288/page-3#post-268707
 
You'll have lots of opportunity to practice your sand riding at the enduro next weekend. :D

See this post: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2011-wr300-bomb-proof-mods.29288/page-3#post-268707

Looking forward to it! Last time, pine barrens won! I fell mebbe like 5 times in the sand! But I was getting better as I rode more..

Yeah.. I don't want to weld clutch arm.. There is lot of stress on it already from recluse pre tensioning. To be honest, this will be my first ride with recluse on the trails. Terrorizing neighborhood does not count..
 
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