• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Rebuilding a1985 cr500... got some questions

Quick question guys. My clutch had 6 discs and 7 fibers. In the parts fiche I have it says the 6 speed 500cr, which I have, has 6 metal and 7 fiber. The set I recieved has 7 metal and 8 fiber. I trust the parts document but just want to make sure. Should I run more plates or is it not designed to.
 
Just to recap- push rod is not bent. I have not removed the actuator cam because when shining a light in the main shaft I can see the cam and it doesnt look mangeled. I still want to remove it to be sure but the carb is in the way. Does the arm need to be at a certain position to be removed or is its position irrelevant? I figured out the adjusted nut on the hub and I will try and get the right actuator free play once I get my new springs and such in the mail.
 
You have a nice looking in very good shape 427 clutch ring gear. These are hard to come by. The 500 can also have the 076 one piece ring gear this
does have more plates but uses a different thickness disc 3.0 vs 3.5

No real position needed just remove the screw. I would replace the seal with a sealed bearing in its place
10x22x6 ZR2 seals or a 69002RS
 
I got plates from ebay from an 85 500 CR XC. They do look thick, compared to my shot plates at least. I assume I only use six metal and 7 fiber vs the 7 and 8 since its the 427 basket. I wanna make sure I have the right plates first though before I run it.
 
TahoeHusky said:
View attachment 57501 disks are shot good thing I have replacements. All the other components look great. This is my first swede husky as some of you may know and I am amazed at the quality. Each gear is heavy enough to go on a tractor. This thing will never die! Built to last.
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the small gear on the back of the clutch that is driven by the kicker and its idler are what go bad, but yes overall pretty solid machines. keep the oil changed!
 
you have a spare starter pawl right? big bores like to snack on those from time to time :eek: whats the back side of the pressure plate look like
 
The back side looks decent. All the components look fine cept for like paint chips on the inside of the cover and just color distortion. No pitting or cracks though.
 
Alright got my springs and gaskets in the mail. Put in my plates and springs and figured out the adjuster screw and got the 3-4 mm of play in the actuator arm then added the cable. Clutch feels normal again so Im happy there. I need to buy some more oil before I ride so Ill update again in a few days. Thanks guys.
 
may want to double check the play at the actuator after a good ride on those new clutches to make sure theres still play. as your clutch wears the play disappears. on the other hand you want as little play as possible to get good engagement and feel. either way im sure you will be good to go. just something to look for. these bikes have alot of torque so it shouldnt be too needed to ever really abuse the clutch
 
Yeah Ill see how it goes on the first ride. Other than that. Got new pirelli tires front and rear. Got the scorpion xc up front standard size and the scorpiom mx in the back (cheap combo) and upped the size from 110 to 120/100 18. So we will see how she hooks up now.
 
TahoeHusky said:
Yeah Ill see how it goes on the first ride. Other than that. Got new pirelli tires front and rear. Got the scorpion xc up front standard size and the scorpiom mx in the back (cheap combo) and upped the size from 110 to 120/100 18. So we will see how she hooks up now.
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I run the biggest M5B on the back of mine
 
2premo said:
I run the biggest M5B on the back of mine
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I saw that one and it was a 130. The tereflex tire online is 140 haha but I was worried that it wouldnt fit. Ill try the 130 next time.
justintendo said:
sounds like its rounding into a good bike. these machines are very rewarding when set up right.
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Thats what I like to hear. I want the bike to be good and reliable. There are still some petty decent problems thought. Most pipe mounts are broken so some welding and bolt work is in order as well as some stripped bolts which im pretty mad about since i hate taking the value down. It seems the magnesium strips pretty easy. Just using hand tools one of the sidecover bolts stripped easily with literally no force. But whatever it should be fine. I might heli coil it one day. Other than that i cant wait to hit the trail on the big bore and throw some sod. No one believes me when I tell them how sick this bike is but do u think it actually stands up to modern bikes? I think it does in speed at least hah
 
most riders do not have the skill to make a modern bike shine over yours. when the suspension is set up correctly and geared right its a very good machine. the big bore swedes have power to hang with just about anything really, power is one thing i dont think you need to worry about, especially with the how the power is set up. broad torque is useful. some people on cafe arent fans of the single shock swedes but i think they are some of the best playbikes made with awesome ergos and seats.
 
I ride with many guys on new bikes and they cant believe how well my 400 can hang. I can go farther up the hardest hills and ride faster on the roughest terrain and sit down while passing them lol. Nothing better than watching other riders in better shape and younger than me being pissed that i'm not as tired or fatigued as they are after a 40 mile ride.
 
86 400 XC said:
I ride with many guys on new bikes and they cant believe how well my 400 can hang. I can go farther up the hardest hills and ride faster on the roughest terrain and sit down while passing them lol. Nothing better than watching other riders in better shape and younger than me being pissed that i'm not as tired or fatigued as they are after a 40 mile ride.
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i agree, you can sit on these things thru some gnarly terrain. there are times to stand but other times i like to sit. the fatigue factor on these bikes is great, long as you dont mind a few vibes..
sometimes its nice to be able to not wear your knees out standing all day hitting your head off everything.
 
The suspension is so cushy and soft it soaks up anything. Even with two people on it! (When my other bike blew up). As to what you said regarding people prefering the twinshock, I like the twinshock design and air cooled would have been nice and simple but I like the liquid cooling and the rear shock is cush. The bike just feels nice to ride
.
 
I tried my twin shock A/C 430 on some single track last month thinking it would be a blast. Well i had to make it disc brake at least before i ran it.
Was ok and the way it revs out was fun, but the 86 it just seems so much safer at speeds and way better low end power.


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