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Rear Wheel Adjustment Bolts - Corrosion?

K

KLOC

Husqvarna
AA Class
When I first got my TE630 I attempted to put anti-seize on the rear wheel adjustment bolts.
I didn't remove them, just backed them out a long way, coated them with anti-seize and ran them in and out. They turned without issue.

Over time these bolts have become more and more difficult to turn. I've never been able to get these bolts completely out of the swing arm for fear of breaking them off in the swing arm, so once every two weeks or so I remove the rear wheel, apply more anti-seize, and run the bolts in and out as far as I dare to try to keep as free as possible.

My axle is quite far back in the adjustment range to provide clearance for endurance ice racing tires and have no intention of changing the axle location other than to adjust for chain wear and to avoid chewing up the shock cover.

Giving the bike a once over today I found these damn bolts have again become most difficult to turn, despite the bike sitting in my garage since November waiting for the lakes to freeze up.

I got them broken loose and the rear wheel aligned, but it is starting to look like the swingarm is going to have to come off, filled with penetrating oil, the bolts completely removed and replaced, and the threads in the swingarm cleaned up.

Haven't found any vent holes or other places moisture could be sneaking in, but I'm suspecting the rubber plugs in the side of the swing arm covering the link fastener.

Anyone else noticed their adjustment bolts seizing in the swing arm?
 
It certainly sounds like you may need to address the problem directly - and probably service the swingarm bearings, shock mounts etc while about it. It is evident that your weather is extreme (on the cold side as opposed to here ;)) and this has implications with these kinds of adjusters etc. I would suggest that after cleaning up the threads etc, and maybe SS bolts and a good waterproof anti-seize is what is needed - here you get Tectyl based aerosol products that are often used a rust inhibitors but do not dry firm or wash off easily.
 
The bolts on my 610 are a little stiff, but don't seem as bad as yours, but I have never tried to take them all the way out. If mine get that hard to turn I will try some heat. Aluminum expands twice as much as steel when heated, so heat might do the trick.
 
If you are running the axle that far back it is possible you are bending the bolts and distorting the threads.
I generally run with as little adjuster exposed as possible for my gearing.
 
Yeah, I'd like to run the axle more towards the front, but I like to keep as much clearance as possible between the rear ice tire and ... everything else.
I took a close look again today and the bolts are straight and the exposed threads are good.
Taking out the plugs in the sides of the swingarm revealed that the inner lips on both plugs were mangled during assembly.
Undoubtedly, moisture has got past these plugs.
 
I just recently did some swingarm maintenence, I try to keep the adjuster bolts lubricated with water proof grease or anti-seize, the adjuster bolts were hard to remove, what I found when removed was the part of the bolt protected by the swingarm threads (and grease or ant-seize)was fine, but the internal/exposed end of the bolt inside the swingarm not protected by the threads (making sense?) was surprisingly corroded, I tried to clean up the ends of the adjuster bolts as much as possible, but anticipate that at some time I will be fixing the threads in the swingarm and getting new bolts. I suspect you will chew up the threads in the swingarm when you attempt to remove the bolts...:(
 
The swinarm plugs really do not seem that tight or sealed, maybe needs some additional silicone sealer? Also KLOK you may consider spraying some aerosol rust inhibitor lube (Q20, W40 etc) down the inside of the swingarm with the assistance of one of those thin red nozzles? Would help loosen the bolts and also protect them in future from moisture.
 
KLOC said:
When I first got my TE630 I attempted to put anti-seize on the rear wheel adjustment bolts.
I didn't remove them, just backed them out a long way, coated them with anti-seize and ran them in and out. They turned without issue.

Over time these bolts have become more and more difficult to turn. I've never been able to get these bolts completely out of the swing arm for fear of breaking them off in the swing arm, so once every two weeks or so I remove the rear wheel, apply more anti-seize, and run the bolts in and out as far as I dare to try to keep as free as possible.

My axle is quite far back in the adjustment range to provide clearance for endurance ice racing tires and have no intention of changing the axle location other than to adjust for chain wear and to avoid chewing up the shock cover.

Giving the bike a once over today I found these damn bolts have again become most difficult to turn, despite the bike sitting in my garage since November waiting for the lakes to freeze up.

I got them broken loose and the rear wheel aligned, but it is starting to look like the swingarm is going to have to come off, filled with penetrating oil, the bolts completely removed and replaced, and the threads in the swingarm cleaned up.

Haven't found any vent holes or other places moisture could be sneaking in, but I'm suspecting the rubber plugs in the side of the swing arm covering the link fastener.

Anyone else noticed their adjustment bolts seizing in the swing arm?
Click to expand...
yes just had this exact problem with me wr300. bolt snapped off in swingarm! whatever you do DO NOT snap it off in there! was an absolute painful mission to get it out(busted multiple long type drill bits, punches, picks etc-expensive exercise). eventually got it out and put a SS insert in there and all good now. have now greased every steel bolt/alloy thread on bike-electrolysis me thinks. swingarm had small amount of dirty water in there when tipped upside down. yeah i reckon water entering thru rubber plugs for linkage access however the 300s have small screw holes on swingarm where chain guard was that are uncovered on mine that would let water in. mite drill a small drain hole in each underside of swingarm just before adjuster area so any water can escape. hopefully the oil trick of filling the swingarm will work for ya, sounds feasible-i shoulda tried it! heat it up maybe too?! good luck mate and keep em greased :)
 
rel
shawbagga said:
...mite drill a small drain hole in each underside of swingarm just before adjuster area so any water can escape.
Click to expand...

this +1
the problem isn't as much water getting in as it is water can't get out. Other bikes have this same issue and this is the best way to resolve. You'll be fighting a losing battle to try and get the swingarm perfectly sealed and waterproof. Sometimes a "bandaid" is the most reliable solution. If you're worried about an open hole then keep small rubber plugs in them and remove plugs and drain after washing. After draining shoot some WD-40 or other penetrating type spray in the hole.

_
 
SilverBullet said:
rel

this +1
the problem isn't as much water getting in as it is water can't get out. Other bikes have this same issue and this is the best way to resolve. You'll be fighting a losing battle to try and get the swingarm perfectly sealed and waterproof. Sometimes a "bandaid" is the most reliable solution. If you're worried about an open hole then keep small rubber plugs in them and remove plugs and drain after washing. After draining shoot some WD-40 or other penetrating type spray in the hole.

_
Click to expand...

Agreed - will never be completely sealed and there will always be condensation in there anyway.
 
I'm thinking I'll pull the swingarm off, stand it on end, pour PB Blaster into it and let it sit for a day or two.
Hopefully, with a bit of heat, the bolts can be removed and the threads cleaned up.

If the bolts are still tight, they will be drilled or EDM'd out and steel Helicoils installed.

I was convinced the bike had vents in the bottom of the swingarm out of the factory. Not sure why I thought
that though.
 
Ok so my f'ing bolt on drive side just broke off. Its flush w the swingarm. I was trying real hard to go nice and easy so i could clean them up but i guess i was a day late and a dollar short What do i need to do to get this out??? Please describe step by step what you did so i can do my best to replicate i really dont want to pull the whole friggin thing off. In all my years, never had this happen on any other bike. Im pretty pissed right now.
 
shawbagga said:
yes just had this exact problem with me wr300. bolt snapped off in swingarm! whatever you do DO NOT snap it off in there! was an absolute painful mission to get it out(busted multiple long type drill bits, punches, picks etc-expensive exercise). eventually got it out and put a SS insert in there and all good now. have now greased every steel bolt/alloy thread on bike-electrolysis me thinks. swingarm had small amount of dirty water in there when tipped upside down. yeah i reckon water entering thru rubber plugs for linkage access however the 300s have small screw holes on swingarm where chain guard was that are uncovered on mine that would let water in. mite drill a small drain hole in each underside of swingarm just before adjuster area so any water can escape. hopefully the oil trick of filling the swingarm will work for ya, sounds feasible-i shoulda tried it! heat it up maybe too?! good luck mate and keep em greased :)
Click to expand...

This exact same thing happened to my very low hours 511 and I reckon it was the same, water getting in past the chain guard screws, and I too drilled a small hole on the underside of the swingarm after repairing the broken adjuster.
 
sorry to hear that...I had the same issue. When I put on the SME sliders i could barely get those things to budge and thought for sure they were going to snap off but luckily I was able to bring them in to where I needed...I am dreading having to do any more work on them for fear of snapping one off next time
 
944A2A0E-A0F7-4A77-8459-39EF0A26F1CC-2790-000004872A3ADE43.jpg
these are a nice replacement. SS bolt and only one nut to turn. My brake side was getting funky and I think the shop over did the set nut on that side causing the threads in the swing arm to get a bit messed up. I ended up keeping the nut for extra support.
CA2F51B9-C319-4BFA-928B-188C3D116CE1-2790-000004872F84218D.jpg
 
marcmo0 said:
Ok so my f'ing bolt on drive side just broke off. Its flush w the swingarm. I was trying real hard to go nice and easy so i could clean them up but i guess i was a day late and a dollar short What do i need to do to get this out??? Please describe step by step what you did so i can do my best to replicate i really dont want to pull the whole friggin thing off. In all my years, never had this happen on any other bike. Im pretty pissed right now.
Click to expand...
be much easier if you take swingarm off, its a 15 minute job to get it off max. might be easier to try to get the snapped bolt screwed through rather than back out cos that would be a real bitch to do! try heat it up first maybe(i didnt try that). soak in oil maybe. EZ outs or the like any chance? or drill a small hole in the snapped bolt and see if you can tap it in(screw in) with a sharp punch. or just try drill/punch it out(my style!). chances are youll destroy the thread but aint no biggie, helicoil(thread insert) will fix that. mine wasnt a pretty performance & it took multiple beers & excessive profanity to achieve! good luck
 
once you fix it grease them bolts to within an inch of their life! i religously spray wd-40 &/or silicone spray down the bung holes after washing bike to ensure doesnt happen again. drilled a 4mm hole under each side of swingarm just in front of adjuster area(lowest point possible) to allow water out. spray lube inside swingarm till it pours out!
 
Thanks Shawbagga. I started drilling it yesterday, but need a longer drill bit. I might just end up drilling it out all the way and helicoil. But, I am on my way out of town for 10 days, so I won't get to do anything with it till I get back.
Good thing I am a pro at mulitple beers and excessive profanity!!
 
The threads in my swing arm are long gone ...I just use the jam nut and bolt to adjust ,really there is no need to thread the bolts into the swing arm.I just push on the tire a bit when tightning up the rear axle...no problem then with stuck adjuster bolts in the swing arm anymore.
 
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