• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc Rear brake problems on 2000 wr250

haulin husky7

haulin husky7

Husqvarna
AA Class
I got a 2000 wr250 that has rear brake troubles, no matter how much i bleed them they never seem to build any sort of stopping power back. when they do build pressure back you ride the bike a couple of yards and the rear brakes start to fading thus having no pressure.
 
The system isn't clean enough inside. Contaminated fluid will cause problems including sometimes leaking fluid out or air in through the plunger or around the piston. If you have not completely disassembled the caliper with the piston out, and the master cylinder with the plunger out, you should try that. Make sure that everything is clean and dry before reassembling.
 
What she ^^^ said, +

Try removing the caliper and holding it straight up above the master and bleed them until they pump clean fluid.

You'll have to put something between the pads to take up the space of the rotor, or it might push the piston out.

If that doesn't work you may need to rebuild the master.
 
Yep, sounds like you need to completely disassemble the master and slave and clean it all out and inspect. I bet the master needs rebuilt (simple). then once it is all clean and new o-rings etc refill and bleed. your brakes will be like new again.

FYI - If you ride a lot I recommend purging and refreshing the brake fluid twice a year. Amazing how much better the brakes work when fresh.
 
Reverse bleed it. Get a nice turkey baster, safety wire a length of hose from the baster to the nipple and push the fluid from the bottom up using the T baster. It pushes the air up (where it wants to go anyway) and should push any contaminants through the system with it.
It will make a huge mess!

If that fails, it's time for a m/c rebuild kit.
 
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