• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Rear brake pedal replacement

J

Joe Schmoez

Husqvarna
Hi everyone,
I recently acquired a 2013 te511, and the darn rear brake pedal seems to be really high. I've tried to adjust the rear brake linkage and adjustment the slack adjuster but the lever is still slightly higher than the peg still.

I'm assuming the rear brake pedal is bent so I started looking for a new one but can't find a replacement other than 100 dollar OEM. Is there any ktm, or other husky model that will fit this bike?

Maybe something like:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Pedal...ash=item28327c9bf1:g:IxUAAOSwAuNW4xWu&vxp=mtr
 
Joe Schmoez said:
Hi everyone,
I recently acquired a 2013 te511, and the darn rear brake pedal seems to be really high. I've tried to adjust the rear brake linkage and adjustment the slack adjuster but the lever is still slightly higher than the peg still.

I'm assuming the rear brake pedal is bent so I started looking for a new one but can't find a replacement other than 100 dollar OEM. Is there any ktm, or other husky model that will fit this bike?

Maybe something like:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Pedal-Foot-Brake-Lever-CNC-Rear-KTM-125-525-SX-SXF-EXC-XC-2008-2015-/172645719025?fits=Make:KTM&hash=item28327c9bf1:g:IxUAAOSwAuNW4xWu&vxp=mtr
Click to expand...


I think OEM is it now. there used to be aftermarket but I am not so sure nowadays.

however, make sure that you understand that pedal height adjustment is done by setting the eccentric aluminum pedal stop. simply loosen, rotate in the direction that you need and re-tighten. the linkage then may need to be adjusted to the correct contact point.

good luck.

ps- you will be able to edit (and delete) your old posts when you become a full-fledged member. post on the "moderator approval" thread in the office forum IIRC to catch the eye of one of our moderators (there is only two of 'em at the moment)
 
shawbagga said:
If it's the same pedal as same year 125/250/310s then a few aftermarket on ebay. AS3 etc
Click to expand...

nope. and they are problematic; I think they get caught or hung-up on obstacles maybe because the tip is more exposed. I dunno.

my son just replaced his (with OEM) but it wasn't that long ago that there was an aftermarket pedal available.

also, to the OP- rig up a brake snake when you get a new one.
 
kirbybikes said:
My solution for the 630 (Post #2, with pictures). Not sure if it will work on your 511 but might help sort the adjustment out.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/630-rear-brake-foot-pad-adjustment.23305/
Click to expand...

That's a pretty good solution you had there (gluing a larger diameter steel pipe to outside of the stock aluminum eccentric. I also like these solutions from the same thread:

this one uses a larger diameter piece of aluminum stock:

img_1072-jpg.19062



this guy used an aluminum brazing rod and put a lobe on the existing adjuster:

20140201_101102-jpg.36823
 
Joe Schmoez said:
Hi everyone,
I recently acquired a 2013 te511, and the darn rear brake pedal seems to be really high. I've tried to adjust the rear brake linkage and adjustment the slack adjuster but the lever is still slightly higher than the peg still.

I'm assuming the rear brake pedal is bent so I started looking for a new one but can't find a replacement other than 100 dollar OEM. Is there any ktm, or other husky model that will fit this bike?

Maybe something like:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Pedal...ash=item28327c9bf1:g:IxUAAOSwAuNW4xWu&vxp=mtr
Click to expand...

Two things here.
1/ it's the eccentric stop that sets the pedal height.
The round stop with the offset hole can be rotated after loosening off the Allen bolt and locked at the height of your choosing. You then set up the free play via the link adjustment nuts. (You must always have a small amount of play before the rod pushes on the piston)

2/ There's no aftermarket brake pedal available for these bikes. They are very strong, and can usually be straightened if needed.
You can fit the earlier 250/310/510 pedal, however they are shorter, and the tip is much closer to the footpeg.
If you have long feet, it may not suit.
 
Dangermouse449 said:
Two things here.
1/ it's the eccentric stop that sets the pedal height.
The round stop with the offset hole can be rotated after loosening off the Allen bolt and locked at the height of your choosing. You then set up the free play via the link adjustment nuts. (You must always have a small amount of play before the rod pushes on the piston)

2/ There's no aftermarket brake pedal available for these bikes. They are very strong, and can usually be straightened if needed.
You can fit the earlier 250/310/510 pedal, however they are shorter, and the tip is much closer to the footpeg.
If you have long feet, it may not suit.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the information. I've adjusted the rod (1 in the pic) so low that it touches the top metal of the brake pedal (2 in the pic). Even with that adjustment the pedal tip still points up from the peg. I've adjusted the round metal object (3 in the pick) as far as I can but if I do any more the rod will be pushing on the brake. I thought of shaving down the rod so I can adjust it more but parts seem to be difficult to come by for these bikes. I would hate to modify it and then realized I messed up somehow. The pic below is not from my bike. My clevis (The part the rod screws into) seems much shorter. You think the person I bought this bike from used a different rod or brake pedal? Mine doesn't have the Husky 'H' as in the pic below. Perhaps he bought a higher aftermarket one or something?
pedalImg.JPG
 
Joe Schmoez said:
Thanks for the information. I've adjusted the rod (1 in the pic) so low that it touches the top metal of the brake pedal (2 in the pic). Even with that adjustment the pedal tip still points up from the peg. I've adjusted the round metal object (3 in the pick) as far as I can but if I do any more the rod will be pushing on the brake. I thought of shaving down the rod so I can adjust it more but parts seem to be difficult to come by for these bikes. I would hate to modify it and then realized I messed up somehow. The pic below is not from my bike. My clevis (The part the rod screws into) seems much shorter. You think the person I bought this bike from used a different rod or brake pedal? Mine doesn't have the Husky 'H' as in the pic below. Perhaps he bought a higher aftermarket one or something?
View attachment 83049
Click to expand...

(take pics of your setup)
  • adjust the pedal (first) to where you want it. that picture shows the eccentric midway on the pedal (IOW, pedal in higher position). and lower or remove the rod if you have to, to get the pedal where you want it.
  • now adjust the rod so it contacts the piston, but does not push it in too far.
  • done
Betcha your brake pedal & clevis are stock- but pictures will tell the story. don't shave anything yet until we figure out what is what. Something is going on here- 'cause this ain't rocket surgery.
 
on 'mo: the rod is (usually) tapered on the end, and fits into a conical depression on the back side of the piston. If the rod is not fully into this "hole", your adjustment may be off.
 
I'd suggest that you have a bent pedal.
The photo is of my TE449.
New genuine ones are still available and are not crazy dear. Be sure to fit a brake skake cable to the tip as in the picture to prevent the new one being damaged.
DSC_2755.JPG
 
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