• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Rear brake locking up

Ok. So I ordered a new switch and a new brake pump. My rear brake works better than ever but I still don't have a rear brake light. I am dumbfounded. There has to be something that I missed though I don't know what it is.

:banghead:
 
Gotta figure out what part of the circuit is wrong...

One thing that happens where it seems the brake light does not work is when the "brake light" is always on. This is caused by being incorectly wired, or the front miniswitch is out of place, or one of the hydro switches is actuated because of the adjustment of the brake themselves.
ANother- bike is running while testing...right? (part of the ac cicuit)

So the front brake switch works? is that a mini-switch or a hydro-switch?

The rear- is that a hydro switch?

The rear light has 4 wires: and an 1157 bulb I am guessing? If the front switch makes the brake light work- then your rear switch "should" work too- concentrate on what the rear brake switch is doing then.

There are 2 wires coming from it- where those two wires are connected to the wires for tail (one from front of bike and one from tail)- eliminate the brake switch wires and check for continuity when the brak is pressed- it should show NONE "open" circuit when not pressed and Full Continuity "closed" circuit when pressed... (an Ohm meter or multi meter will test this. Or take a flashlight apart and put that in seires circuit with the switch.

the two wires that the switch should be connected to - will make a closed circuit and turn your brake light on if connected. If they are the right wires- connect them together and your brake light should come on. If the one headed toward the front of the bike is a Positive and and does not have a short or break - it should be good. At some point- something has to be found wrong here!
 
HUSKYnXJnWI;109511 said:
Gotta figure out what part of the circuit is wrong...

One thing that happens where it seems the brake light does not work is when the "brake light" is always on. This is caused by being incorectly wired, or the front miniswitch is out of place, or one of the hydro switches is actuated because of the adjustment of the brake themselves.
ANother- bike is running while testing...right? (part of the ac cicuit)

So the front brake switch works? is that a mini-switch or a hydro-switch?

The rear- is that a hydro switch?

The rear light has 4 wires: and an 1157 bulb I am guessing? If the front switch makes the brake light work- then your rear switch "should" work too- concentrate on what the rear brake switch is doing then.

There are 2 wires coming from it- where those two wires are connected to the wires for tail (one from front of bike and one from tail)- eliminate the brake switch wires and check for continuity when the brak is pressed- it should show NONE "open" circuit when not pressed and Full Continuity "closed" circuit when pressed... (an Ohm meter or multi meter will test this. Or take a flashlight apart and put that in seires circuit with the switch.

the two wires that the switch should be connected to - will make a closed circuit and turn your brake light on if connected. If they are the right wires- connect them together and your brake light should come on. If the one headed toward the front of the bike is a Positive and and does not have a short or break - it should be good. At some point- something has to be found wrong here!

Thanks for the info. I guess that will be my last resort. I will keep you posted if/when I find something out. Thanks.
 
Quick test is to connect + power to a bulb then thru the pressure switch to -. Push pedal if no lite it's switch related. Have seen the hole under the switch in the master plugged not alowing fluid to give any fluid pressure to activate switch.
Later George
 
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