• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Rear brake locking up

wersmokin

Husqvarna
AA Class
Was riding yesterday on my 2000 husky and for some reason my rear brake locked up. I was able to bleed the brake off the rotor but had no rear brake afterwards. Any reason why the brake locked up? I am using DOT 4 brake fluid (not silicon based) So if anyone has any ideas of what it might be would sure be appreciated.
 
damaged/ crushed brake hose
too much fluid- heats up and pushes piston in brake cylinder
worn/ coroded brake pins
worn/ coroded cylinder/ piston walls
 
sounds like rust build up, sometime water builds up inside the system,
id flush it, ttake it apart, clean all the bits, assemble with Vasoline, {lightly} and rebleed.
 
only on the seals, it will keep them from tearing, and binding..like i said,,just a little, Vasoline evaporates pretty fast..
 
i use it very lightly when rebuilding master cyl, and calipers. as just a bit on my finger tip keeps the seals from binding up, and getting stuck, have yet to have a problem with it.
just did my VOR last spring, and rode it a week ago, brake still works like a charm..
as long as you dont slober a bunch on the seal, and leave it sit out for a while, you wont have an issue.
if you just whipe a thin coating on the seal, and make sure its not bunched up, then assemble and finish the job, your ok.
a lot of new seals are shipped in a light coating of grease.
that should be cleaned off with mineral spirits or rubbing alcohol, and then a light whipe of vasoline...remember light.
then assemble, ad brake fluid, and bleed them out.
saves the frustration of splitting a new seal, or having it fold back on itself when you assemble the shaft in the cycl, hole.
 
They make special grease for brake caliper slide pins. Great stuff i use it all the time. It sounds like you know what your doing. I just did not want the average joe to mess up and have problems later on.
 
I took apart the whole system and cleaned it. The real test will be tomorrow when I go riding. Thanks for the advice y'all!!
 
sometimes, when the pads get down, the piston will go beyond its travel, and lock thigs up.
sounds like your on the right fix...
 
wersmokin;85348 said:
Was riding yesterday on my 2000 husky and for some reason my rear brake locked up. I was able to bleed the brake off the rotor but had no rear brake afterwards. Any reason why the brake locked up? I am using DOT 4 brake fluid (not silicon based) So if anyone has any ideas of what it might be would sure be appreciated.

if someone replaced the pads after the system was topped up (never do that if it is low it means your pads are worn out or there is a leak) then flluid expansion can cause issues. also- if the rotor is bent it will rub the pads excssively and cause the system to overheat but that usually causes fade. grit in the master or petroleum distilates causes swelling of stuff and can cause issues. if you wash or submerge often your bike and dont ride it dry dragging the brakes the slider can corrode causing issues as well. check all links, the pedal and grease it and other stuff too. always clean the pistons before stuffing them back into the caliper for a lot of reasons.

always use only matching bake fluid for cleaning and assemble lube. use the recomended lube for slide pins, if any.
 
Well the brake works great! For now anyway. Now my brake light doesn't work!! Not sure what to do about that but I will have to fix it when I get home from vacation..=P
 
oldhuskychuck;85803 said:
if yer far enough ahead,,brake lights arent needed..right?

:D That's right! always accelerate to clear whats behind you before you brake just in case:thumbsup:

Might be air-wersmoken-
 
on the 4th race on my husky 2009 te250 the front brake locked up on the lip of a table top verry scary i managed to get off the track and managed to get it free by forcing it to turn then it was right been right since then preaty darn scary though :S considiering i wasnt even useing the brake
 
Well I have finally gotten around to fixing my brake light situation. Well it still doesn't work. My front or rear brakes work but not the brake light. I ordered a new rear brake switch and that didn't do the trick. Not sure what else I can do. My tail light works. Just no rear brake light. Grrrr this is annoying. The last resort is to order a new rear brake master cyclinder and a new front brake switch. If anyone can help I would appreciate it.
 
I doubt that the front and rear switch's both are bad ,,,But crap happens.. The rear is a pressure switch and the front on our 2010 TE 250 is a push button switch on the bottom side of the master cylinder.. That was a snap in unit ..

Try all the electrical connections at the rear fender and it may be the running light is ok but the brakelite side of the bulb is blown

Chow, Carl
 
:banghead:I have done everything possible I think. Cleaned connections and replaced the bulb. I still have running lights but no brake light. I am going to order a new brake pump from Hall's this week. They have it in stock. This is my last resort. If that doesn't work then I am not sure what else to do...

:banghead:
 
Did you use a multimeter to see if the brake switch is at fault?

Sometimes you could even get a bubble in the switch which prevents them from working properly. Just say'n before you order a new one.
 
I ordered a new switch. I installed it and still nothing. The only thing I can figure out is the rear brake pump but then I am not so sure. Just don't know what else to try.

:banghead:
 
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