• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Rear brake feel

T

turboslacker

Husqvarna
A Class
My 2009 TXC250 rear brake requires very little force to lock up. I don't believe there is any problem with it. I'm just wanting more progressive feel so I can apply slight to moderate drag without full tire slide. I know that the braking is quite incredible on modern bikes, but man could I use more feedback thru the boot feel when riding slower steep technical trails.

Any ideas on hardware adjustments or riding style?
 
I had the same issue with Yam WR250, my solution was to remove some of the brake pad material to lessen the contact area and therefore reduce the braking effect, see picture below.



images
 
Might try popping the piston out of the caliper and making sure everything is nice and clean-when the seals get dirty the piston does not float as well and the brake pads are always tight on the disc; this results in overbraking
 
Could just try adjusting the pedal so you have more "free play" before the brake is engaged.
 
Carving on the pads is a time honored fix. Cutting some large grooves also improves the mud handling capabilities. I used DP carbon pads (front) once and the grabbed better than the stockers. Cam.
 
Fully agree with KCcam. reduce pad area, then cut groves then, create more play in the pedal. I would one at a time and suck and see.
 
Noticed same thing. These brakes are very good on both ends. With new boots though had to really keep a light touch.
 
duggoey said:
Could just try adjusting the pedal so you have more "free play" before the brake is engaged.
Click to expand...

This worked for me on my '10 Te 250. At first the pedal was set pretty high and I was having the same problem with lockups. Adjusting in extra play allows you to have a bit of a softer touch on the brakes. I can't say I've ever wanted less braking power (or horsepower for that matter) but good modulation is a must.
 
Indorider said:
This worked for me on my '10 Te 250. At first the pedal was set pretty high and I was having the same problem with lockups. Adjusting in extra play allows you to have a bit of a softer touch on the brakes. I can't say I've ever wanted less braking power (or horsepower for that matter) but good modulation is a must.
Click to expand...
I have long legs and without adjusting the pedal i find sitting anywhere else but over the rear wheel makes it hard to have your foot on the pedal with out depressing it (due to he hip/knee/ankle angle). The free play gives a much more progressive feel and tends to lock up less as you have to press it further to engage it.
 
Same here. Wasn't so pronounced with my Gaerne boots but with my Sidi's I was having to point my toes out (before adjusting) to keep from riding the brakes.
 
Just adjusted mine, cam and shaft adjust as far as they would go. Should keep my foot at a better position for braking. Seems every bike I need to do this from the factory.
 
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