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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Rear Axle Torque Settings
- Thread starter Bagman
- Start date
SAM511
Husqvarna
AA Class
Bagman,
IMHO, use 80Nm on the rear and 40Nm on the front and you will not go wrong.
Most manufacturers specify 100 Nm.
I have safely used these settings for 20 years regardless of what the manuals say and have never had any issues, or for that matter never had a failed bearing either.
On another point I have been a bit conservative on 2 other torque settings over the years. I have always set Front Axle Clamp bolts at 15 Nm, and the Front Fork Clamp bolts at 17 Nm top and 13 Nm bottom.
huskyte310
Husqvarna
AA Class
Seahorse
Husqvarna
AA Class
I also own a 2005 TE250...
Normally I follow manufacturers recommended torque settings pretty slavishly. Particularly for items such as Front axle and fork clamp settings, as mentioned in SAM511's post above.
However, in the case of the rear axle nut, a bit of commensense should prevail.
No doubt you have the 27mm ring spanner which comes stock with most Husqvarna's...This is what you will carry in your trail pack and consequently have to use out on the trail.
You can pull the axle-nut up to the recommended torque setting all you like when working in your shop at home, but believe me, it will be almost impossible to undo with that pokey little supplied spanner out on the trail.
Do this little test at home. Make sure the axle and nut are lubricated with waterproof grease, then pull the nut up by hand using the supplied 27mm spanner, to a point you "feel" is right. Then, if you own a torque wrench, set it on a low setting and gradually work the setting up until the nut just starts to move...If the reading at which the nut moves, is close to some of the practical settings mentioned above....you are good to go..!!
Now, more importantly, double check that you can actually undo the nut relatively easily....taking into account that the bike will more than likely be precariously balanced on a fallen tree, stump, or something similar when working on it out in the bush.
The largest amount of weight you will be able to exert on the tool trailside, will be by placing your foot on it and pushing using your body weight....(If you have to jump up and down on it it is too tight for practical use.)
Hope this helps...
Seahorse
Husqvarna
AA Class
Coffee sells a really nice axle wrench in the Cafe Husky store (we call them "spanners" here in Australia).
It is made from aluminum, so nice and lite....I must save up for one....