• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Really stupid newbie question?

montanaman

montanaman

Husqvarna
A Class
So getting ready to do my first oil change on my 2011 TE250 and I am stumped as to how to get at the drain bolt that is tucked under the frame? I've figured out its a 12mm bolt but there is no way I am getting a socket wrench up there with any chance of turning it. Is there a special tool that gets to the that bolt? Seems like an awkward place to put something like that considering how many times you need to use it. Thanks
 
Open end wrench is what I use. I can't even get any of my 1/4" drive sockets up in there. You'll have to use your fingers to finish removing the plug once you've broken it loose with a wrench. It's a mess so be prepared for a little "spillage" while you get the plug out. Don't forget the metal screen behind the plug, too.
 
IMG_0380.JPG

Yep, my skid plate is in the way so I couldn't verify the size but 12mm sounds right. You can slip an open end in front of the white crossmember in the center of the pic. I have to use both hands to work the plug out and still glop oil all over. I let most of the oil drain and then snag the screen that is seated behind the drain plug. Takes a little coordination for sure. Use a big drain pan!
 
Got it. Mission accomplished. Took a minute to get the metal filter out after getting the drain bolt off. I was afraid of pushing it in to far before realizing you cant. Old oil looked pretty dirty for about 4 hrs riding time. Did not see any metal shavings. Replaced paper filter... took a minute to get to the 3rd bolt that is covered by the rear brake. There is a oddly shaped washer in there that I think I got back in place correctly. However I did not get one of those 3 screws threaded in properly and when I started the bike after filling it with new oil it was leaking badly.. oh no !! I quickly found my mistake and re-fitted that screw. Put some more oil in ( Castrol 4T 10 w 40) and fired it up. All seems well. Time to take it out this weekend and hammer it !!
 
benwiggin2 said:
wow, 2011 procedure seems like a PITA until you get it down-pat, huh?
Click to expand...

I think it will get easier the second time around. I still seem to be getting some leakage around the cap that covers the paper filter. Wondering if is that odd shaped metal ring that goes in there first?
 
If all of this was accomplished with the skid plate still attached I demand to see photos of each and every step! :eek:
 
benwiggin2 said:
wow, 2011 procedure seems like a PITA until you get it down-pat, huh?
Click to expand...

It's not that bad after a couple of iterations. Hardest part is not making a mess getting the plug out as it is tucked up under the crossmember and difficult to get your fingers on it. Gots to be careful threading it back in for the same reason. You get used to it! Wish 7602 would come up with a g-wiz solution for it! I think theses x-lite engines are going to be around long enough for the effort. HINT, HINT, HINT CLAY!
 
Wish 7602 would come up with a g-wiz solution for it! I think theses x-lite engines are going to be around long enough for the effort. HINT, HINT, HINT CLAY!
Click to expand...

This x-lite drain plug is proving to be more troublesome than the older twin cams we make a plug kit for.
 
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