• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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Radiator hose - a tight fit...

Johnrg

Johnrg

Husqvarna
Pro Class
I have a hose that appears to be getting chewed up a bit by one of the under tank hex screws. The under tank fitting is very close to the nipple from the water pump as well so options, to me, would be shim the tank up in front or replace existing with a flatter head phillips or button allen head in that one location. Appears that it has already chewed through the braided sheath. Next is the hose itself. My warranty is up in another month so may have the dealer address it in case that hose has begun to get chafed or the tank has deformed. These bikes are really tight in places, so every time I've cleaned her, I'm checking for abrasion, etc... Worth keeping an eye on things.

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Mike-AK said:
I think I would go with a button head allen or torx screw.
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Took her in to the dealer for a look as I figured Husqvarna should see in case all current 310s are like this. Having the 600 mile service and valve check done while there. Should know what they decide later today.
 
I cannot see how this could not be a model specific problem (presumably 2013 TE310R), so if it is ok with you I will move this to 4st where it seems a better fit.

Common Topics -> 4st
 
Johnrg said:
I have a hose that appears to be getting chewed up a bit by one of the under tank hex screws. The under tank fitting is very close to the nipple from the water pump as well so options, to me, would be shim the tank up in front or replace existing with a flatter head phillips or button allen head in that one location. Appears that it has already chewed through the braided sheath. Next is the hose itself. My warranty is up in another month so may have the dealer address it in case that hose has begun to get chafed or the tank has deformed. These bikes are really tight in places, so every time I've cleaned her, I'm checking for abrasion, etc... Worth keeping an eye on things.

View attachment 24684View attachment 24686View attachment 24685View attachment 24687
Click to expand...

My 2013 TXC 310 rubbed a hole at this very place Sunday ! Luckily I noticed water spraying straight away ! . My bike had phillips head from factory .

Will "wrap" new hose with piece of the old ! Needs to be checked on all TEs, TXCs 2012s and 2013s (with stupid "larger" Tanks! ).
 
mine was hitting the rad hose as well and there was actually a slight leak of fuel where it was also hitting the fuel line on the fuel valve(petcock) barb fitting.
The installation of the CV4 hoses seemed to give a tiny bit more clearance, for the fuel valve I just used a wedge and left it in for a while so the tank would get some clearance memory, its fine now. I also thought to add couple washers under the rubber washers or double/triple up the rubber washers on the alignment pins if needed. The required clearance is very small. I noticed with a full heavy tank it closed the gap more from tank flex.
 
those X-light's are so freaking packed tight they have all sorts of rubbing issues. I love how those bikes handle and run but man they seem to have their fair share of issue related to stuff being to close to other stuff. (technical gargin)
 
FIXED!

Was a bit peeved. Got to the dealer to pick up my bike after valve check and this item. Well... photos sent to Husky and a TE was on the floor with button heads but they wouldn't make change without Husky's input. They did stuff a big rubber extra washer and a longer screw up front to space and secure the tank but it left my right side plastic shroud barely inserted into the upper plastic slot.

I was a a bit peeved (to put it mildly) that they didn't look at the bike on the floor and note the button head screws and buy a few. Good thing is Husky is alerted and I may get a hose and some screws from them. Decided to tear it all apart and do it myself the right way. I live near a fantastic fastener store and they had exactly what I needed as shown below. A 3mm button head. So I have a 5mm thick or so rubber gasket sleeved over the guide for the tank and tightened down it looks good. I am clear of the hose and the nipple as you can see with the feeler guage sitting there with no pressure to slide it past. I may add a slim washer on top of the rubber just because engines do vibrate and things do shift over bumps ;-)

Glad I'm not alone and hope this is helpful to others. You can get at this screw without removing the tank fortunately. Comes up just enough in front to get the washers on or off and the inside screw replaced.

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I doubled up the rubber spacers since last post and added some loctite to the threads so I'm gaining a little more room. Probably best to sandwich a metal washer in there so you could snug it as you just crush the rubber washers by reefing on it. Upshot is I have at least 3mm between petcock/hose and water pump and a hair more between radiator hose and sender screw. The plastic tabs between schrouds and side panels fit as they should.

Now if Husqvarna would upload the '13 Service Manual to their servers we'de be all set. Service Dept. assumed it would be online and brought my thumb drive for it but not yet available. I also sent a PDF to Husky USA regarding the above issue. If they feel it worth adressing... a kit with 1 screw and proper metal/rubber spacer would solve this.
 
Johnrg said:
I doubled up the rubber spacers since last post and added some loctite to the threads so I'm gaining a little more room. Probably best to sandwich a metal washer in there so you could snug it as you just crush the rubber washers by reefing on it. Upshot is I have at least 3mm between petcock/hose and water pump and a hair more between radiator hose and sender screw. The plastic tabs between schrouds and side panels fit as they should.

Now if Husqvarna would upload the '13 Service Manual to their servers we'de be all set. Service Dept. assumed it would be online and brought my thumb drive for it but not yet available. I also sent a PDF to Husky USA regarding the above issue. If they feel it worth adressing... a kit with 1 screw and proper metal/rubber spacer would solve this.
Click to expand...

I just wish they would go back to the smaller tank ! You only lose about a litre.

But all these problems GONE, and you can get to Air Filter and Spark Plug / Coil easier.

My Tank "Flexes" about 5mm at the bottom near that pipe so although you have clearance, will it still rub when you ride it ?

I wrapped the Hose with a piece of old hose to protect it .
 
Did 60 miles in the dirt today and a stack of rubber washers/spacers won't cut it. They just compress more under load and bumps. I just installed (3) 1/2 inch (ID) hardened steel spacers on top of 1 rubber washer when I got home (washers fill the space and the rubber just so not to reef on the plastic tank. They were the only size washers I could find that fit over the post and within the cavity under the tank and they are perfect. I can tighten it down firmly and tank will sit level. I also had to slot the holes in one shroud to move it up as it barely fits into the side panel slot now that the tank is raised (due to variation in height of both radiators). 4-5 mm is how it's spaced and should be solid now. I heard that someone at Husky USA has the same issue and also shimmed the tank. They are sending my dealer a replacement hose but they are not adressing screws or anything else.

So the fix in the end is 3 hardened 1/2 inch ID washers (shown below), on any rubber washer to fit. And a 3mm Allen head/Button head screw to replace the hex screw.

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Just got a set of these Zip Ty spacers. Each spacer is 5 mm. thick and will get your tank spaced as it should be and avoid any clearance issues. Just place one on the front tank mount.

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Are there any problems with the side panels or seat lining up after installing the spacers? I'm assuming you use all three (one on the front pedestal and one on each of the two rear pedestals)?
 
Mike-AK said:
Are there any problems with the side panels or seat lining up after installing the spacers? I'm assuming you use all three (one on the front pedestal and one on each of the two rear pedestals)?
Click to expand...
Just one is all you need on the front. These are 5mm and your sidepanels and tank panels will appear more aligned. No effect on the seat. The photo below shows the alignment of the panels after being shimmed. Better than stock!

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This must be a '13 "Red Head" specific problem. My 2012 TE310 doesn't have a hose anywhere near those screws.
 
My girl and I just bought a pair of '13 TE310r's, we both developed leaks in this same area at 40 and 140 miles. Hose replacement and buttonhead screws fixed it up.
Dealer says never heard of this issue.
Must be only with the '13 redheads. I say recall and easy preventative fix.

leak.JPG

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Just looked at the factory setup.

The rear posts each have one rubber washer.

The front post has a metal washer and a (thicker than the two rear) rubber washer.

No sign of chaffing on the radiator inlet hose.

WP_000927 (2).jpg
 
If your hose is clear you are very lucky and only other thing is to slide something thin or a few mm thick between your petcock barb and top of water pump housing just to make sure your petcock is not resting on it. That and the radiator hose were the tell tale signs of the need for the spacer/s and lower profile screw. Maybe Husky actually added a thick metal spacer after all on the last bikes.
 
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