• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Race Prepping A 11/12 Te 250/310.

JasonfromMN

Husqvarna
AA Class
My starter question is can I remove the headlight assembly without any problems with the electrical and fuses? It's kinda heavy.

Has anyone removed the fan from the rt radiator? Any I'll effects? It's also heavy.

I'm running 12/50 gears and am pretty happy with that. I'd like to get a shoari battery soon before the race season starts here. Where do you set your forks in the clamps?

What else have YOU done?
 
I took the whole headlight/numberplate off and replaced it with the TXC number plate. It requires making a little bracket to attach the number plate at the top, but the bottom plugs right in to the lower bracket. No issues with the electrics. I also pulled the entire rear light/plate assembly.

We have enough slow stuff that I'll keep the fan. 13/57 gearing right now, although I'll probably switch to 12/something for clearance.

New springs front and rear. And I'm trying to get the clickers set. I'll probably want to have the valving re-done, but I figure I'd get better results if I can tell the tuning shop what it's doing for me. Just changing the clickers is making a big difference, though.
 
The TXC has the same charging system and it is delivered w/o lights so it should be fine.

My radiator fan has never come on and I ride tight eastern woods.
 
I put in a Ballistic 4 cell battery which weighs 13oz - I think it's just a little weaker than the stock battery but it weighs a lot less (although I can't really feel it) *RockyNMountain $100

Rekluse *Motocity in Avondale, Az where I bought the bike $789 (too f'in much but ...)

Some Polisport Sharp hand guards to keep the cactus off. *closeout MotosportsSuperstore $15

Tubliss inserts so I can run low tire pressures when I want - and no worries about flats. *$85 each

Akrapovic Race system will be here this week - I need a spark arrestor *ChromeAddiction $590

Probably need to get a JD Tuner for the Akra exhaust (injection has been perfect stock) and suspension revalved by Javier when I figure out where it's lacking (it's pretty damn good stock) and maybe refit my old WER steering damper (bike doesn't really need it but it might take some edge off in rocks and allow me to pull myself back into position on the bike without changing direction so much)
 
IMGP0002.JPG
Jason, I would contact Fred @ FAR on the racing form. He said he is willing to help CH members
to get more Huskys raicing. That said, I bought a TC front plate and rear fender from motoplastics,
it is a simple swap out. The fuses I just zip-ty the bundle to the sub-frame instead of mounting to
the rear fender (no pcv or JD on this bike). Also installed a T.M.D chain guide, less friction and looks bullet proof.

If you do not plan to ride it on the street anymore? yes strip it to the TXC ,they are the same bikes....

If you leave the dash on ??? the brake line and speedo cable will need to be lead behind the plate (like
it shipped). With the dash removed, the plate will fit flush with the triples and will bolt right up, and
brake line willl go in front, like the TC /TXC.
 
I took the whole headlight/numberplate off and replaced it with the TXC number plate. It requires making a little bracket to attach the number plate at the top, but the bottom plugs right in to the lower bracket. No issues with the electrics. I also pulled the entire rear light/plate assembly.

We have enough slow stuff that I'll keep the fan. 13/57 gearing right now, although I'll probably switch to 12/something for clearance.

New springs front and rear. And I'm trying to get the clickers set. I'll probably want to have the valving re-done, but I figure I'd get better results if I can tell the tuning shop what it's doing for me. Just changing the clickers is making a big difference, though.

Are you using the computer? Cant imagine it would fit with the TXC plate. I would like to find a way to use both if it didn't look too dorky.

Does the TXC use some kind of enduro computer?

View attachment 14107
Jason, I would contact Fred @ FAR on the racing form. He said he is willing to help CH members
to get more Huskys raicing. That said, I bought a TC front plate and rear fender from motoplastics,
it is a simple swap out. The fuses I just zip-ty the bundle to the sub-frame instead of mounting to
the rear fender (no pcv or JD on this bike). Also installed a T.M.D chain guide, less friction and looks bullet proof.

If you do not plan to ride it on the street anymore? yes strip it to the TXC ,they are the same bikes....

If you leave the dash on ??? the brake line and speedo cable will need to be lead behind the plate (like
it shipped). With the dash removed, the plate will fit flush with the triples and will bolt right up, and
brake line willl go in front, like the TC /TXC.

Did you leave your dash on? yours looks pretty natural with the TC front plate. This bike has never been street ridden so I though id ditch(but keep) the non essentials. Good idea on F.A.R. I think ill try that.
 
Are you using the computer? Cant imagine it would fit with the TXC plate. I would like to find a way to use both if it didn't look too dorky.

Does the TXC use some kind of enduro computer?



Did you leave your dash on? yours looks pretty natural with the TC front plate. This bike has never been street ridden so I though id ditch(but keep) the non essentials. Good idea on F.A.R. I think ill try that.

Yes, with the dash on, the brake line chafes in front of the plate .No on the TXC enduro computer. The TXC is the same bike we have, with out the crap. TXC is "RED STICKER" in CA. My bike's plated HA HA, and its intended purpose is " the Ultimate 250" . Street legal (Beer Getter), Race (SuperMoto) and Cow trailing (Dirt) Two sets of wheels,brakes, gearing and so many options...........
 
Are you using the computer? Cant imagine it would fit with the TXC plate. I would like to find a way to use both if it didn't look too dorky.

Yes, I did have to make a little extension for the plastic tab that holds the TXC plate at the top. The brake line does rub but it doesn't seem too bad.

IMG9657-M.jpg
 
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