• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Race Map II Plug

firerider

Husqvarna
AA Class
Recently bought 2014 TE 449 and been doing lots of research here and other sites on the web. I was able to find the parts catalog with exploded views and part numbers. For the mapping plug listed for the 2014 model is a note that it is not available in the USA. Has anybody been able to locate one or should I search for one from a different model year? Are they all the same?
 
Thanks. I am new to this bike so I'm wondering what that plug will do for me in regards to performance. Will that alone uncork the bike a little bit or do I need to jump the plug and change exhaust, decat, etc.???
 
Thanks. I am new to this bike so I'm wondering what that plug will do for me in regards to performance. Will that alone uncork the bike a little bit or do I need to jump the plug and change exhaust, decat, etc.???
Im new to this too. I was really disapointed when I first rode my bike. It felt like an old 1980's 4-stroke 250. I have done nothing to the bike yet other then put the jumper in and it woke up. I can't wait to break in the motor so I can remap to racemapIII, add an exhaust and remove the secondary butterfly. I've read then it will become a rocket.
 
It true. It's a real pain to decat the stock exhaust and it will still be heavy. Go for an aftermarket pipe. But do go ahead and get it into MapII now. It will richen up the mixture and make for a safer, more consistent, and cooler running bike while you're breaking it in. Keep in mind these engines are pretty tight when new, so do oil changes often and switch to synthetic oil. This will help, but it really takes about 500 miles to truly get it broken in all the way. Do your research, ask questions here on the Cafe (welcome btw!) and trust Tinken.

ZipTy was the factory race team for the Italian Huskys and nobody knows them better. Tinken is their rep around here. Start here:
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/ziptyracing-directory-list-of-threads.39632/
 
Thanks. I am new to this bike so I'm wondering what that plug will do for me in regards to performance. Will that alone uncork the bike a little bit or do I need to jump the plug and change exhaust, decat, etc.???

The general consensus seems to be that one should put the jumper in. When you have a chance, get the ECU flashed with the BMW Map 3 (which your dealer should know as the Akropovic full titanium race map). You should be able to talk them into flashing it for free if you tell them the thing flames out and wants to kill you on the road, and you know map 3 will fix it. Then decat the stock exhaust.

The FMF will add some power, and it is much lighter as Huskynoobee said, but it's loud.
 
There are other choices besides the FMF. Akro has some too. I heard something about ProCircuit producing a slip on, but nothing yet. They do have a full system, and it's priced at around $1000. Most people go with the FMF because it's cheap, easy to get, and they have inserts for it.
 
Thanks. I am new to this bike so I'm wondering what that plug will do for me in regards to performance. Will that alone uncork the bike a little bit or do I need to jump the plug and change exhaust, decat, etc.???


So I just "Race Map II'd" mine for today's ride. Definitely a noticeable difference. Bike would stall quite a bit, at low speed w/o the plug. Ok, am I crazy, or does this also change the amount of engine braking? Very little engine braking after installing the plug. Maybe I'm imagining it, but it feels different.

Still having some stalls though. Just finished a hill climb, came back down was about to go up again, and the bike just stalled from idle. Didn't want to start back up either. Had to rev her a lot to keep it running. After a few minutes, it ran like normal again. Weird.
 
So I just "Race Map II'd" mine for today's ride. Definitely a noticeable difference. Bike would stall quite a bit, at low speed w/o the plug. Ok, am I crazy, or does this also change the amount of engine braking? Very little engine braking after installing the plug. Maybe I'm imagining it, but it feels different.

Still having some stalls though. Just finished a hill climb, came back down was about to go up again, and the bike just stalled from idle. Didn't want to start back up either. Had to rev her a lot to keep it running. After a few minutes, it ran like normal again. Weird.

That's exactly how my bike flamed out after doing Race Map II, and an exhaust. This helped: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2011-te449-running-well-with-factory-efi-system-finally.41069/
But I finally had to add a PowerCommander and AutoTune to get it running very well.
 
That's exactly how my bike flamed out after doing Race Map II, and an exhaust. This helped: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2011-te449-running-well-with-factory-efi-system-finally.41069/
But I finally had to add a PowerCommander and AutoTune to get it running very well.


So Race Map II affects engine braking? Man, it felt like such a huge change. I was barreling down hills and having a helluva time keeping control.

Anyway, yeah, I'm not to keen on doing the butterfly cable removal, so it looks like Power Commander V will be what I go with. How hard is the PC V install? Worth the order from ZipTy?
 
So Race Map II affects engine braking? Man, it felt like such a huge change. I was barreling down hills and having a helluva time keeping control.

Anyway, yeah, I'm not to keen on doing the butterfly cable removal, so it looks like Power Commander V will be what I go with. How hard is the PC V install? Worth the order from ZipTy?


PCV is an easy install.
BTW, I was referring to the downhill followed by a sudden uphill causing most of my flameouts.
 
A JD Tuner is much cheaper than the PCV and easier to install and mount. My bike runs strong with absolutely NO flameouts. The PCV is popular here, but the JD was around first, and lots of folks have had good luck with them, myself included.
 
A JD Tuner is much cheaper than the PCV and easier to install and mount. My bike runs strong with absolutely NO flameouts. The PCV is popular here, but the JD was around first, and lots of folks have had good luck with them, myself included.

Agreed. Mine did help. I know Kelly is very happy with his. But I have come to the believe that there are less flameout and oil blow by issues with the 449. It seems most people get by with the JD on the 449 -- and that the 449 runs better to begin with. Mine was an absolute nightmare. It must have something to do with the extra displacement but with the same sized EFI and Map.
 
Agreed. Mine did help. I know Kelly is very happy with his. But I have come to the believe that there are less flameout and oil blow by issues with the 449. It seems most people get by with the JD on the 449 -- and that the 449 runs better to begin with. Mine was an absolute nightmare. It must have something to do with the extra displacement but with the same sized EFI and Map.

Yeah, I've not had the oil blow back on my '14 449. Flame outs have been a bit of problem, but I've also dropped the bike several times during rides, which always makes starting it back up tough. Maybe I just got lucky on the air box / oil blow back, as I've been filling the oil to the manufactures specs and I've had zero oil in the air filter box.

I ordered the PC V last night from ZipTy, so I hope it fixes the flame outs and engine braking problems. Probably could have gotten away with the JD tuner, but PC V seems to have a lot more support, and having the Zipty maps already on board will be a huge help.
 
Agreed. Mine did help. I know Kelly is very happy with his. But I have come to the believe that there are less flameout and oil blow by issues with the 449. It seems most people get by with the JD on the 449 -- and that the 449 runs better to begin with. Mine was an absolute nightmare. It must have something to do with the extra displacement but with the same sized EFI and Map.


There are actually two ecu p/no.s for the two different bikes in each year model, maybe a mapping issue with the 511 maps.
 
So Race Map II affects engine braking? Man, it felt like such a huge change. I was barreling down hills and having a helluva time keeping control.

Anyway, yeah, I'm not to keen on doing the butterfly cable removal, so it looks like Power Commander V will be what I go with. How hard is the PC V install? Worth the order from ZipTy?


The PCV will be a good way of correcting the mixtures.

The engine braking over-run issue is the 'self controlled' idle system. The PCV has no control over the idle speed system.
Some people have had success fiddling with idle screw settings & putting the ecu in a re-learn mode. This didn't work on the bike I have no matter where the settings were or how many electronic resets were done..
The above link to the butterfly removal also details how to remove the idle stud & take control of the idle speed with the brass screw setting alone.

Removing the second butterfly will help with flame-outs, as the electronics aren't quick enough to react to fast throttle inputs when the throttle is cracked wide open.

This is a video I shot in 720 frames/sec of the system in operation as intended by the factory showing the delay time involved.
Removing it stops it choking off the air.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Vn_9JxDOz8&feature=autoshare
 
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