• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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Race Map 3 on TE511

mlorenzini

mlorenzini

Husqvarna
A Class
For those of you who have Race Map 3 on the TE511 what does it read on the dash? I just receive mine back from being sent off for remapping and it reads Race Map 2 just as before. Isn't it supposed to show 3?
 
mlorenzini said:
For those of you who have Race Map 3 on the TE511 what does it read on the dash? I just receive mine back from being sent off for remapping and it reads Race Map 2 just as before. Isn't it supposed to show 3?
Click to expand...


No, the update is 'Map set 3', it still has two maps installed, Map I & Map II, One road map for o2 sensor & one for race use no o2 as before.

Sooooo, it will still show Map II on the dash with the jumper plug installed.
 
Ok I had the jumper plug installed and the O2 sensor removed already. I plugged in the remapped ecu and that's it. Does this mean I'm running Map 3? Or do I need to unplug the jumper?
 
mlorenzini said:
Ok I had the jumper plug installed and the O2 sensor removed already. I plugged in the remapped ecu and that's it. Does this mean I'm running Map 3? Or do I need to unplug the jumper?
Click to expand...

Ok, so there was an original pair of maps in the first models - Map set 1. Then they came out with another pair of maps for the newer models - Map set 2.
Then they released a pair of maps for the Akrapovic racing exhaust called Map set 3.
ALL these sets have two maps loaded in them - Map I which doesn't show on the dash & Map II which does show when the jumper is installed.

If your ECU has been upgraded to Map set 3 & you have the jumper installed you are good to go. :thumbsup:

It won't say Map3 anywhere..... it should run better though with less stalling.
 
Ok so it won't show 3 on dash. So what effects should I expect? I stalled a lot a low revs with clutch in before. I also boil fuel and some mild popping on decel. I understand Map 2 was lean. Should I expect less popping, less stalling, and less heat? What about power/torque? Any gains there with map 3?
 
My bike is an Aus deliver bike so we get different ECUs to you guys.
The maps are richer, so should be better than standard for most of the probs you just mentioned.

The primary TPS voltage has an impact on the running of these bikes also especially down the bottom .
It should be at 0.7v factory setting, lots of them are lower at like 0.6v....
 
Ok so that last thing you said about TPS voltage, I don't know anything about that. Is there something that needs to be done there?
 
mlorenzini said:
Ok so it won't show 3 on dash. So what effects should I expect? I stalled a lot a low revs with clutch in before. I also boil fuel and some mild popping on decel. I understand Map 2 was lean. Should I expect less popping, less stalling, and less heat? What about power/torque? Any gains there with map 3?
Click to expand...


less stalling , but if it is still hard to start sometimes or still stalls easy, increase the low idle speed. Factory stting is 1850rpm -1950rpm. But for tight single track with lots of clutch use, you should increase the low idle. makes it so much better to ride. I turned my brass screw half a turn out for more idle..
Race MapII will remain in the dash.
You should have much more response and less of a heat problem.

Let us know how you went .
 
Mines turned out 5 1/4 turns from all the way in, matched my te449, also running fmf and put quiet core back in for back pressure. Also did tps reset all at same time, flameouts are a thing of the past now, no issues at all
 
No idea. TPS resets did not change anything at all on my 2011.
Did it at home, out in the bush where-ever, read & re-read the how to, did not change flameouts or idling issues on my bike one bit.
Maybe it helps the newer models with the different wiring, not sure.

Idle screw can help for sure.
As you can see by the different settings for different peoples bikes posted above, there's no '1 magic number' of turns.
Just be aware that as you open it up more (anti-clockwise) you also add more inlet air making the mixture leaner.
Take note of how many turns it is at now(to come back to if needed) & experiment a little at a time, 1/4 turn each adjustment.
 
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Umm you're over thinking this. Go ride it man! You now know where the idle screw is. Adjust and experiment only as needed, but screwing around with everything before you even take it out isn't going to tell you anything about what actually needed adjustment and what didn't. Think of the scientific method...make only one change at a time, evaluate the result, and then begin with adjusting ONE thing at a time.

Not trying to be harsh, but DM was right several posts back, kick tire and light fire!
 
mlorenzini said:
How do you know if you need to do the TPS reset?
Click to expand...
Not sure stalling I guess. I decided to do all at once after reading recommendations on the te 511 platform. Not sure what pipe you have but after installing the fmf it stalled worse than stock. 449 was 5 1/4 turns out but as said above different bikes seem to need more or less. Did tps reset cause I went from 2 turns out to the 5 1/4 so I figured I'd reset it all at once. It was also recommended with the fmf 511 it needs back pressure so core went back in. Before I did all this it would pop when I let off the throttle now no more anything just runs strong and no issues. I'm not running anything but smog junk off, fmf, and map 3. The 511 was way more a pain in the ass than the 449 but now both mine run nice. Good luck and happy riding
 
I disconnected the positive battery terminal. Left it unplugged for 30 minutes and pulled in the clutch and held starter button on for 10 minutes to discharge capacitor. I believe Tinken recommended to put quiet core back in for the back pressure, worked great (thanks Tinken) also they do seem to run better after about 600 miles or so or after the break in. You'll know if you turn the tps out too much it won't want to unrev.
 
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