• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Question re: front brake pad replacement...tight?!?!

ripnriding

ripnriding

Husqvarna
AA Class
Bear with me...have replaced pads on mt bikes and have found that for the first ride...pads have to wear in...a.k.a resistance from new pads on rotors. After a solid ride, this improves. Have also taken sand paper and ground away some of the pad to improve this i.e before a race so as to not have to suffer any more than needed.

So question here is this..replaced the almost non-existant pads that were on my Husky with new ones and did the usual things..pistons were extended out quite far to make use of the well worn pads that were already in it so when I tried to push back the pistons...met quite a bit of resistance. So, released bleeder and then pushed back pistons in caliper with existing pads..success. Installed new pads and bled brakes. Solid end feel and noticed quite a bit of resistance from pads on rotor. Figured this was the same scenario as with my Mt. bike pad changes so took it for a little road rip. Found, first off, wow...actual brakes and 2...so much resistance that when I let off of gas it was like I was hitting brakes. Rode around for about 15 km and came onto the brakes a few times.

Bike is now parked in garage on stand and have noticed a slight improvement....is this usual. WOuld I expect all things back to normal after my next ride or should I bring it into a shop to get this done proper. Thanks in advance
 
In my experience, I have never had to wait any time or ride any miles or sand off any pad to gain complete pad/disc freedom on many different bikes' pad changes, including a recent rear brake pad change on my TE450. Perhaps you have a blocked up master cylinder or brake line that does not always release the hydraulic pressure completely.
 
decision made...going to bring this into the shop and have the guys that do this for a living make it all right ;)
 
I would think that over time, you may have added brake fluid in your master cylinder with the old pads.

Could it be possible you now have too much fluid in the master cylinder?
 
Coffee said:
I would think that over time, you may have added brake fluid in your master cylinder with the old pads.

Could it be possible you now have too much fluid in the master cylinder?
Click to expand...

This is a common thing, worn pads so fluid is added, new pads need to lower fluid level. There has to be an air gap in the master cylinder, that is why there is a maximum fluid mark on most of them.
 
rancher1 said:
This is a common thing, worn pads so fluid is added, new pads need to lower fluid level. There has to be an air gap in the master cylinder, that is why there is a maximum fluid mark on most of them.
Click to expand...

Good point. I'll wait until I have an extra set of hands and bleed this a little better ;) I definitely have too much fluid in the mastercylinder. I was under the impression that you should fill it up to the point where (with bladder collapsed) you place cover on so that a small amt of fluid will purge out to keep air of out system. I figure a good solid bleeding/purging of fluid should fix this up then ;) Thanks guys...will let you know how it goes. Have to admit.....a newbie here and really enjoying the wrenching almost...almost as much as riding :thinking:
 
The Pops came over and had another set of hands....resolved...cause...too much brake fluid in master cylinder..proper bleeding with MC off and then a couple with it on and brakes have solid end feel and front wheel now turns freely. All is good with the world...Beer? I think so. Thanks guys
 
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