• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

Primary Gear on crankshaft.

Bigbill

Bigbill

Husqvarna
Pro Class
I picked up a 2080 cr 250 engine. I have a stuck primary gear on the crankshaft. I tried a puller with heat and nada wont budge, I’m thinking it’s galled on the crankshaft taper. This is my first one like this. Any suggestions?
 
You need a more robust puller. Put up a picture of what you have. I put a picture of what I have used lately:lol: , I think I have something more robust. That is all I can find a picture of though. I only have found galling on automatic crank drive tapers. Probably has something to do with the fact they are quite long. Anything is possible I guess could have been put together wrong or loose.crank gear puller.jpg
 
There is probably an eighth inch of so between the gear and the nut. It makes things stay in place that way.
 
Keeping the nut shallow will retread the stud Incase it gets burred, good job frank.

I need a larger puller. Thanks.

Everything was going so good too. We were moving right along till the gear won’t cooperate. First engine, here we go.
 
Bigbill said:
Keeping the nut shallow will retread the stud Incase it gets burred, good job frank.

I need a larger puller. Thanks.

Everything was going so good too. We were moving right along till the gear won’t cooperate. First engine, here we go.
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obviously you want to be real careful nothing slips..that magnesium is real close. ive always used the factory husky puller and they pop off pretty easy, similar to what andy sells.
 
I just purchased a gear puller like fran..k has plus a large craftsman puller I always used before that’s Mia. Thanks guys.
 
I just purchased more gear pullers with the bearing pulling plates too. Now need a hydraulic press. Being retired I don’t have access to this stuff anymore.
 
Bigbill said:
I just purchased more gear pullers with the bearing pulling plates too. Now need a hydraulic press. Being retired I don’t have access to this stuff anymore.
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while its certainly nice to have a press around, what do you need it for? certainly not needed to work on a swede engine. just a case splitter, crank puller for reassembly, and whatever puller you want use to remove the primary drive gear.
we have talked about how the tusk universal splitter and crank installer work well.
 
I would like a press for changing connecting rods and changing bearings. I do other work too. I did purchase the husky case splitting and assembly tools. Plus I have a local connection we’re I can borrow the orginal husky tools too.
 
Bigbill said:
I would like a press for changing connecting rods and changing bearings. I do other work too. I did purchase the husky case splitting and assembly tools. Plus I have a local connection we’re I can borrow the orginal husky tools too.
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pressing out your own rods means you need v-blocks and a dial indicator to true them again as well...at least thats how ive always seen it done my local shop. keep the two halves concentric to each other and then check/correct runout at the crank ends.
 
I have the vee blocks, two live centers, two mag base dial indicators for doing cranks. I split cranks on the gravely tractors many decades ago.
 
You can get a 20 ton press from Harbor Freight. I was at Frank DeGray's auction in 2007 and scored a 20 ton American made hydraulic press for $75. I only had to flush and bleed the hydraulic line and top the reservoir. I also got crank masks that I had to open up to get the 430 crank into it.
 
I used the larger craftsman two jaw puller finally she came off. Never seem a primary gear this tight. Finally got the case split, cleaned, inspected, new bearings, new seals. Next bor the cylinder and port it. She’s a ‘80 250/cr case number 2079. She’s 48 years old and gonna run again. It felt great to split a case again. My son is learning with hands on too.

A hydraulic press is next. I have the steel and a magnetic base drill I bartered for. I’d like to fabricate a wider working area press so cranks would fit in the open width. It wouldn’t take long to drill the uprites after making a template.
 
Bigbill said:
I used the larger craftsman two jaw puller finally she came off. Never seem a primary gear this tight. Finally got the case split, cleaned, inspected, new bearings, new seals. Next bor the cylinder and port it. She’s a ‘80 250/cr case number 2079. She’s 48 years old and gonna run again. It felt great to split a case again. My son is learning with hands on too.

A hydraulic press is next. I have the steel and a magnetic base drill I bartered for. I’d like to fabricate a wider working area press so cranks would fit in the open width. It wouldn’t take long to drill the uprites after making a template.
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i use a magnetic base drill all the time at work...truly a wonderful invention! we used to have all jancy units, but since most workers abuse them and drop them they get cheaper units made by milwaukee. they all take standard twist drill bits, we drill alot of holes 1/2-13/16 in size. i actually have a "slugger", made by jancy. they use a rotary cutter, kind of like a broach. no pilot hole is needed, just a dimple or punch mark.
 
I picked up a used 575 husky chainsaw they couldn’t start at a pawn shop and started it up and bartered it on Craig’s list for a mag base drill which are very expensive. As you know we can do a lot of work with a mag base drill. I have a brand new 575 husky already.
 
Bigbill said:
I picked up a used 575 husky chainsaw they couldn’t start at a pawn shop and started it up and bartered it on Craig’s list for a mag base drill which are very expensive. As you know we can do a lot of work with a mag base drill. I have a brand new 575 husky already.
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what kind of drill is it?
 
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