• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

POWERDYNAMO MZB IGNITION

eveready

eveready

Husqvarna
AA Class
Has anyone here had any business with the German factory direct online shop? The reason I ask is because of the price difference compared to buying here in the US.
 
eveready said:
Has anyone here had any business with the German factory direct online shop? The reason I ask is because of the price difference compared to buying here in the US.
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I just recently got mine from there. Took about a week to get it. Make sure to get the puller as well. I got the A/C system that used my existing mounting plate as it was slightly less expensive. Kit number 71 25 799 for my '87 430. Easy install and I recommend them. My cost all up was $313.
 
Just as an aside, some folks are concerned about the lack of a key way in the rotor (flywheel). Using machinery handbook as our reference we find tapers less than 15 degrees tend to be "self locking" (for example the common Morse taper as used on drill presses). The taper on our crankshaft easily meets this criteria. Torque to spec, re-torque after a short time running and you are good to go. Don't forget to lap the new rotor to your crank.
 
Thanks, I think I will go that route. I have a 76 360wr with bad Motoplate. All of the Husky supplers want $500 plus shipping, compared to $270 plus shipping. Hard to believe someone has to make $200 on a part, but I find that a lot on Vintage Husky parts.
 
I have bought 2 of these recently. The lack of a keyway makes no difference at all. Just make sure you lap the flywheel to the shaft. Mine was the DC system for my '78 390 Auto and '78 390 WR six speed. Brilliant ignitions !
 
Good info you guys. However the keyless rotor seems like a timing hassle even though the taper fit is plenty to secure the flywheel/rotor. The key way provides an easy reference where the flywheel/rotor needs to mount for proper timing. Don't you need to use a timing disc or dial indicator every time the flywheel/rotor is installed?
 
I would think that you would need to time the flywheel each time it is removed. That's the price to pay for this setup with no key way provided. In my application this is acceptable to me. Not sure how often flywheel removal is required but this would be an extra step.
 
and not that big a deal to throw the dial indicator in there and time it up. would be nice if there were a key way tho.
 
No, you do not have to retime the rotor every time you remove it. When you do the initial installation, set the engine at TDC without the flywheel installed and mark the cases to line up with keyway. After you set the timing rotate the engine back to TDC and mark it on the cases to line up with the timing mark on the rotor. If you have to remove the rotor just put the engine on TDC and line up the marks.
 
Darrel78 said:
I just recently got mine from there. Took about a week to get it. Make sure to get the puller as well. I got the A/C system that used my existing mounting plate as it was slightly less expensive. Kit number 71 25 799 for my '87 430. Easy install and I recommend them. My cost all up was $313.
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Darrel,
I just installed a PowerDynamo AC ignition on my 87 250 rebuild. Is the AC version a digital or analog ignition?
Do I need to use a thin electrode spark plug and a non-resistor plug cap? I think it came with a plug cap.

Thanks,
Dave
 
The paper work that came with my system recommended non-resistor plugs and caps. I'm running a NGK B8ES plug in mine. I'm thinking that the A/C system is a simple analog system. Mine is working well so far; no complaints here.
 
Dave, I used an H4 halogen headlight bulb in mine after getting the power dynamo system installed. Very bright and easy to see at night now.
 
Darrel78 said:
The paper work that came with my system recommended non-resistor plugs and caps. I'm running a NGK B8ES plug in mine. I'm thinking that the A/C system is a simple analog system. Mine is working well so far; no complaints here.
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Thanks, I'm running B8ES plugs in all my Swede Huskys.
I think I timed the bike right, based on the instructions. Used a dial gauge in spark plug hole, found TDC then moved back the rotor to 2.0mm BTDC.
Guess I'll see when I try to start it. :-)
 
Well it's time to order a new POWERDYNAMO MZB IGNITION. My question is do I or the AC or DC? I would like to run Preston Petty enduro lights without a battery.
 
You can use either AC or DC with incandescent bulbs and no battery...

If you want to use an LED bulb you'll need the DC system... DC will also let you add a small battery if you ever decide to (can come in handy if engine stalls).
 
AC vs DC question
cars haven't used generators for decades but have DC operating systems
they use a rectifier, it cuts half the wave to allow only one half the sine to be DC
you can find motorcycle rectifiers too since most street bikes run AC charging systems
 
Both PD systems are AC power out of the stator... DC system has a rectifier/regulator. AC system has only a regulator.
 
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