• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc power upgrades

Fredrik

Husqvarna
A Class
What is the best upgrades for more power on the cr125?
Relative to the cost.

It is stock exept fmf powercore.

Is boysenreeds better than vforce3 or it is only minor difference?
vhm top?

Ps. must be 125cc for the class we compete in.
 
A better chamber will help with power. It seems the FMF gnarly and fatty offerings are somewhat different in terms of tuning the power curve. Pro Circuit has some great stuff, but if you go that direction you'll need to use a PC silencer as well. You can also mess with squish on top, go for a racing head, machine the stock head, port the cylinder,etc. Just depends on your budget.

Consider where you can shave weight too. A stock pipe is usually heavy compared to aftermarket, aluminum parts weigh less than steel, etc. The lighter it is, the better power to weight ratio.
 
... bike is heavy as hell in muddy conditions so don't waste time on£££ light stuff go for engine mods.
Porting and squish will be best bet.
Spot on fueling. Race gas etc

Depends on what your after and what racing you do.
You after top end or acceleration ?
Off road on road?

Best performance mod for cost #1 experience.
 
Hi, motocross, missing the aggressive takeoff. Gone from 50 to 51 sprocket as most recommend.
Is squish/top compression best for money?
Jetting is good.

Thanks,
 
Get a pipe, then fix your squish. I'm not sure where it is with the 125, but my 150 was 1.2 or 1.3 mm. I now have it at .75. HUGE difference in power. Enough so that I went back to the 50T, and could probably even go 49. You probably should machine the head to get the squish down, but since it's a 125, you may be able to do it with base gasket, or even run with no base gasket
 
Not that expensive Google how to measure squish band. I use plastercene plastercene at 4 points on piston crown, lube it up with some oil put head back on without o ring s in as it will be of in 3 mins. Wind motor over then undo head carefully peel off a lump of plastercene then measure with callipers the flat part at the edge before the dome. It will be something like 1.8 mm I imagine.
Measure the other three take the average.
Take head to machine shop and get them to take off the excess so work out how small it needs to be and get them to machine off the required amount.
Then pay them like 30 bucks cash in hand an stick it on ya bike.
Check the squish again am anal like that.
Then bolt her up an kick her over.
After filling back up with coolant.
 
Breaking out the rear wheel in corners also (not efficient driving yet spectacular effect to play with)

If you doing the more gnarly stuff the motor engine is really good in idling and having traction without abusing your clutch. (mountain goat ability)

but a fire road is better to be avoided as it is very easy to over ref the engine to long and heat it up to much.

Robert-Jan
 
i would say you give away a few hp running a fmf pipe- i would say you ll get more top end power from a stock pipe.
FMF is more for enduro - it makes the power delivery more linear instead peaking on top
 
I've run both, modded the bike, then run back to back tests with both and I. Would disagree. The Fatty makes more power everywhere. The stock pipe it a turd, IMO
 
I've run both, modded the bike, then run back to back tests with both and I. Would disagree. The Fatty makes more power everywhere. The stock pipe it a turd, IMO

whic silencer do you run? i ve got the TC2 and im very disappointed with the power on my 2013WR
 
Stock. In testing I've never noticed a difference swapping out silencers, though I've never used a TC on a race bike, just stock vs same length, or shorties
 
i ll have to keep the stock one for the road reg inspection so thats why i m running a TC2 as its not that noisy.
 
I wonder if N America and Europe get the same pipes ?? I saw mention of FMF FIM legal pipes in an article recently.
 
Back
Top