Power staying on - pump, lights, etc - 2014 TE310R

[Mucci]

I was having no spark issues that I was able to resolve by grounding the Power and DC relays with jumper wires. While messing around with other tests I blew the main fuse. Now when I put a new fuse in everything is turned on - lights, dash, fuel pump, O2 sensor…

I believe on this bike the regulator is what switches the ground for the Power and DC relays. When I test for continuity at the R/R pigtail (unplugged) I’m seeing 70 MOh between the ground and Power Relay wires and the same between the ground and DC relay wire.

Is that normal? My assumption is those should be normally open circuits until they’re told to switch / make the ground connection. I just want to make sure this is correct before buying a new regulator.

 

[pvduke]

short answer: you popped/welded something by "messing around". something is way wrong. IF there are no smoked wires, and it runs SAFELY, and nothing is on fire, test the mag output at the batt with a DVM. then hit the kill button (mag/CDI/Coil/ground circuit). that may tell you if the reg is toast or not. get a new VR anyways but do not install until the problem has been fixed. hopefully CDI didnt pop as well. check power to same then disconnect and see if "the lights go out".

if evreything is still constant hot, you need to start at the batt and CAREFULLY work forward with all circuits disconnected, re-connecting one at a time and checkign fuses for pop and constant hot. use a gator clip on the POS side with a long lead so you can yank and toss it fast to avoid burn-down or use a Power Probe (really just get one). when you find the one circuit that is causing constant hot, back/fwd trace from there. check all looms for even the slightest damage- that means, you guessed it, un-wrapping. take pictures of stuff.

be super careful and scientific. make sure all the plastics are off and the tank is off and have an extinguisher handy. track you work on paper. do not do this w/o tracking your work. or you will just chase your tail.

before the above, check for loose/fouled grounds. disassemble all switches, clean and test, i've seen arcs cause a switched circuit to close- even very little tiny ones, it dont take much. remove all bulbs. remove any load that is not critical to operation and check/clean and dielectric grease all connectros. leave no stone unturned. not even a tiny one. don't jump to conclusions. be methodical. baby steps. even if you find the cause- beware of down/upstream issues. keep going. someting big time bad happened. pretend it's God's bike and he's watching.

once it's fixed, replace all relays and fuses when done. it's a pretty simple loom actually. you can do it. just takes time. time costs nothing if you DIY.

 

[Mucci]

Figured it out. Popped the regulator. The epoxy was cracked on the backside and it smelled....not good.

 

[Mucci]

short answer: ....

First off, thanks for taking the time to run through all that.

The R/R obviously had an "event" since the back was blown out, however when plugging in the new one from RM Stator the power is still on.

This leads me to questioning how the "Power" and "DC" (lighting) circuits are controlled on this bike. It's a keyless EFI model, so something is automatically switching those circuits instead of a keyed ignition. I've read through the FSM and can't find anything that talks about where that switching is happening.

If I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly everything that pulls power from the (R)ed circuit has a constant 12V supplied by the batt.
If that's right it appears to mean everything is waiting for that ground connection to happen in the Regulator.

So my question / assumption is that the R/R is doing the switching after being triggered by incoming AC voltage from the stator.

If any of this is incorrect please let me know. If it is correct... it probably means there's an issue at the regulator since the DC and Power circuits are grounded as soon as it's plugged in. Either it's defective or it's a model that doesn't have the internal switching feature this bike requires.

 

[Mucci]

Diagram for reference

 

[pvduke]

i cannot diagnose wiring issues online.

i can say you have a stuck relay or fouled/welded bar switch if it's all HOT all the time. ive seen this a lot when the batt is hooked up backwards or there is a wild/loose/fouled ground or chaffed wire/short to ground.

something got missed. start over. youll ge it. see my last. keep at it. power probe is your friend.