• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Power Commander III

Well, as many of you know, I have my bike over at JDJetting to have a custom PC EFI map created to correct the dying that is going on with my 2008 TE 450. James has a really nice set-up at his home and even has a nice loop on his property to try things out. Anyway, to the findings:

Before messing around with any fuel mixture parameters, James wanted to get a graph/picture of what the Dyno told him. Initially, the curve looked very normal (uneventful) and the horse power runs up to 47...like a normal bike would. Here's where everything goes weird. After about 8 minutes as the bike warms up, the HP starts to sign-off and dwindle to about 37. Needless-to-say, James is confused and has never seen anything like this except maybe a Yamaha and the infamous grey wire.

Well, to make sure it's not the Power Commander, he unhooks it re-setting it back to the normal Power-up kit mode that I usually ride it as. The only difference in the outcome is the fuel mixture, but the bike does the same sign-off to 37'ish HP. Not satisfied, James puts the O2 sensor in to cross reference and notices that the bike is obviously leaner and runs a lot hotter, but does the same sign-off. He has no clue what it could be and said that the average person would never even notice this in the woods because the torque down low is great and everything to about 60 mph is normal before the decline in power, which is still enough to get the bike to almost 90 mph. Where you would see a difference is if you were in a drag race with the exact same bike and it started to walk away from you. That being said, it still has more power than a 250.

Anyone have any ideas?

"The first string of runs (3-9) were consistent and uneventful. The second set of runs to check the results (runs 10-16) with the motor more warm showed reduced power on the top-end." James
TE45008FIPC3AHPAirFuel.jpg


TE45008FIPC3BHPAirFuel.jpg


"There is not sign of anything being wrong with the bike in terms of how it idles, runs, pulls forward, or sounds. I don’t know why the power curves aren’t like the first string of runs." James
TE45008FIPC3AvsBHPAirFuel.jpg


TE45008FIStockvsPC3AirFuel.jpg


"The 3 red are with PC3 and the blue is with the stock ignition box. All the runs make about the same power up to 60mph. Notice that the air/fuel is the different with the blue (stock map), but the power is nearly unchanged in runs 16, 18, and 29. The best power was on run 9." James
TE450_08_FI_Stock_vs_PC3_max_hp_Air.jpg


TE450_08_FI_Stock_String_Dropping_N.jpg


In all cases, there was an eventual 10 HP loss at about 8 minutes of Dyno time! This has nothing to do with the PC as confirmed in Power-up trim and O2/lambda sensor in...all had the same 10 HP loss.
 
Jeff Tasky is going to call James to troubleshoot. After that, James will work his magic and start to make his adjustments.
 
Motosportz;24957 said:
I see all the images just fine. :excuseme:
Click to expand...

The must be in your cache from yesterday...

I get a bandwidth exceeded on all the pictures.

Someone needs to step up and get a Smugmug account. :D The owner is a rider and runs ADVrider on the Smugmug dime. Not a bad company to support, plus the service rocks.:thumbsup:

Later,
 
Motosportz;24957 said:
I see all the images just fine. :excuseme:
Click to expand...

That is because once they are queued up in your cache they will remain visible regardless of where the links are viewed. I can't see the pics on the thread on TT either.


Very strange why the power went down once the engine warmed up. I'm sure James/Jeff/fitness will follow up :thumbsup:
 
I thought what Keith had to say below might have some validity!

MOTORHEAD;24908 said:
Yeah, but there's a water temp sensor in the back of the cylinder that sends inof to the ECU. There's also air temp built into the throttle body. The air boot runs very close to the pipe and could b e heating the air coming into the throttle body. The ECU could be adjusting the ignition and FI based on one or both of these readings.

Also, do you have the valve cover vent still going into the air boot? That is another source of heated air?

Back fire screen in?
Click to expand...

Also, I think the way my Rekluse is either set-up or worn might have something to do with it.

James' Dyno set-up has two huge exhaust fans built into the rear of the room on either side that suck air up and out the rear, which causes a 20 mph rush of cool air to channel towards the front of the bike through two frontal ports. Maybe if I brought in a supplimental exhaust type fan and aimed it right at the bike...took off the radiator guards and put the radiator louvers back on...flushed out my radiator fluid and refresh with Evans (?)...re-tooled my Rekluse for quicker/harder engagement with less slip...all to keep the bike running as cool as possible, the bike might show a different HP outcome!?!?
 
Yeah, the clutch thing is a good idea, too. I've questioned mine a few times with just normal riding and the dyno has a lot more load.
 
Just to make sure I have the PC III hooked up correctly, I was supposed to splice into the orange wire correct? There were 2 orange wires, but one of them was all orange and the other one was half orange and half black so I spliced into the all orange one. What exactly is that splice for and what is the all orange wire for?

Thanks,

David
 
I'd have to go look and see, but I was thinking it was the Yel / blk wire. It's the one that's very top right side. Like wire #1.

How's the JD dyno tune going?
 
I have a power commander III usb on my Yamaha R1 2002, but i dont really need it.

Is it possible to modify the wiring harness to make it work on my TE510 2008?

Thanks
 
simonetti;111544 said:
I have a power commander III usb on my Yamaha R1 2002, but i dont really need it.

Is it possible to modify the wiring harness to make it work on my TE510 2008?

Thanks
Click to expand...

As far as I know all Power Commanders are identical to each other. You may or may not get support from Dynojet, but in essence you need to install the proper injector connectors - not all bikes use Mikuni efi.
 
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