• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

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All 2st Possible front fork issues

Sthorny

Sthorny

Husqvarna
A Class
Hi
Finally I've been out on my 2004 cr 250 for the first time in ages but have came across a couple of issues hopefully you guys can help with. Firstly as I'm not really an experienced rider I was unsure there was anything wrong until I got it confirmed today when I gave a friend a shot of my bike ( who is experienced ).
It seems that the bikes front end does not want to turn in and just wants to go straight on?
I built this bike from the frame up and got a good deal on used forks from a TC 250 2007 so I striped them down fitted with new seals I also filled with 7.5 wt fork oil as advised from my local dealer as I'm a big lad.
The rebound is all set as stock. Any help would be great on this.
Secondly my front brake is crap!!! . I fitted a brand new wavey disc when building the bike and fitted new pads I've bleed the brakes loads of times but after a lap or so it just fades away and the lever just about touches the grip before it starts to work???? Again any help on this would be great thanks.
 
You need to give us more info about what is wrong with the bike. You say it "doesn't want to turn in," does that mean that it is hard to turn the handlebars?

What was wrong with the stock forks, why did you switch?

Do 2007 TCs have the twin chamber forks, for those in the know?

Brake fad like that sounds like a fluid/air issue to me.
 
Hi Kyle thanks for replying. The handle bars turn perfectly freely it just seems that front end doesn't grip as it should.
I never had stock forks to try as I built the bike from the frame only and sourced everything separately I couldn't get CR forks and was told the TC ones would be the same.
The brakes have been bleed loads of times but I could try again.
 
Possibly the front brake caliper alignment is off and the pads are dragging and its causing a weird feeling in the steering and also getting your fluid hot.
 
pull the front caliper off take it for ride,see if it did anything.You can ziptie the caliper up out of the way just for short ride.
If that didnt solve the issue id look where the tubes are sitting in the triple trees.If you have them up to high in the triples the bike will tend to go straight.Does the TC frontend have adjustible triples?If there out of adjustment itll pull the bike straight.
I say this thinking you might have the tubes set high cause your a big lad.
 
K5PL5 said:
Possibly the front brake caliper alignment is off and the pads are dragging and its causing a weird feeling in the steering and also getting your fluid hot.
Click to expand...
Hi when the bike is on the pit stand the front wheel spins freely.
 
AWM said:
pull the front caliper off take it for ride,see if it did anything.You can ziptie the caliper up out of the way just for short ride.
If that didnt solve the issue id look where the tubes are sitting in the triple trees.If you have them up to high in the triples the bike will tend to go straight.Does the TC frontend have adjustible triples?If there out of adjustment itll pull the bike straight.
I say this thinking you might have the tubes set high cause your a big lad.
Click to expand...
Hi if you mean the tubes barely sticking out the top of the trees then yes I do I was trying to increase the ride height as I'm 6ft 2". How much should the tubes stick out the top of the trees?
Sorry maybe should of said the triples are from a CR it's only the forks I got from a TC
 
Well it should have three lines round the top of the fork tube.Thats a factory guide of sorts.
Im no expert in any fourm,im sure theres better people here to talk to on this subject.
But if the triples are adjustible and set angling out,making your wheel base longer,itll want to go straight.There to depending on where your fork tubes are in the triple as far as heigth will determin on at what angle and how quick the bike will turn.If you have the fork tubes high in the triples it to makes your wheel base longer.
Even where your rear axle is in the swing arm will change wheel base and steering angle.
So if you have the trifecta,rear axle far back in swingarm,tubes flush in the triples,and the triples raked out,,in my opion it would corner like a hay wagon.
 
Has your sag been set?
Where your rear suspention is set will put or take weight on and off your front end also.
Sounds like you just gotta get your chassi tuned properly.Get the tape measure,a good friend,and google brother google.:thumbsup:
Beers are optional,depending on how you'd like the best results.:D
 
AWM said:
Has your sag been set?
Where your rear suspention is set will put or take weight on and off your front end also.
Sounds like you just gotta get your chassi tuned properly.Get the tape measure,a good friend,and google brother google.:thumbsup:
Beers are optional,depending on how you'd like the best results.:D
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info yeah I've just been reading up about it looks like there's a lot of variables that could be causing the under steer seems like I'm going to have to put the hours in to fix this one
 
I did set the sag before on the rear but think I'm going to start from scratch and do the lot again
 
If you do get all the way in it,you might want to have the suspention sent out and set for your weight and riding style.Best money you'll spend on your bike.There again in my opinon.
But your good size guy,and most factory suspention is set for 170lbs rider.So your fighting the chassi laws of pyhiscs before you even start.
But you wouldnt have to adjust your suspention to compinsate for anything,like weight an height.
Once you get it straight,youll be mad at yourself for not doing it sooner.
 
AWM said:
If you do get all the way in it,you might want to have the suspention sent out and set for your weight and riding style.Best money you'll spend on your bike.There again in my opinon.
But your good size guy,and most factory suspention is set for 170lbs rider.So your fighting the chassi laws of pyhiscs before you even start.
But you wouldnt have to adjust your suspention to compinsate for anything,like weight an height.
Once you get it straight,youll be mad at yourself for not doing it sooner.
Click to expand...
Yeah only problem is I don't really have anywhere local that could do this for me
 
Yea i have to send mine out to.
I have a friend from your side of the pond and he recomended a place not to long ago.Give me a second and ill find ya a link.:cheers:
 
w
AWM said:
Yea i have to send mine out to.
I have a friend from your side of the pond and he recomended a place not to long ago.Give me a second and ill find ya a link.:cheers:
Click to expand...


www.k-tech.uk.com

They were recomended by rally race friend.Been told good things,but i have not used them.Hope it helps.
 
Nice one cheers. There a fair bit away but I'll give them a phone in the morning to see what they can do
 
Sending the suspension out is a good idea, but you don't necessarily have to jump to that right away. Here are two things you could work on that could be really useful:

1. Give a better description of what is happening. Right now, you just said it "sometimes doesn't turn." We need to know more. What Are you riding on when this happens? What type of terrain? How fast? What inputs are you putting into the bike? How does the bike "feel"?

2. Make sure that everything is set to the right baseline setting. You need to set your front and rear sag, set the forks to the right place in the triples, check fork alignment, all the clicker settings.

Then go from there!
 
Hi Kyle the track i use is mostly a hard clay surface the problem seems that when Im trying to go a bit faster round banked corners the front end doesn't grip like other bikes i've driven.
Since my first post on this thread i have done a bit more research it seems i am going to have to try and set the rebound and compression rates on the forks.
When i fitted them i just set them as per factory setting which are obviously no use for where im riding.
Is there any hint or tips for doing this or is it just going to be turn them a couple of clicks and do a lap or two?
I am going to check my sag sizes again and take it from there.
 
Ok i think i may of solved my front brake issues.
There seems to be an adjuster were the piston goes in to the master cylinder on other husky's ive been looking at, mines does not have this ?? is that a feature that was on newer bikes only or should my 2004 have it?? i looked up the part list and there isn't one listed but ive seen it on other 2004 husky's?
If so can i buy this as a separate part or is it actually part of the master cylinder?
 
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