• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Piston ring Gap.. how much is Ok and not.. on TE511 !!??

9880sts said:
How big is the Ring gap when new ? any Measurements available ?
Click to expand...


Interesting that the Husky shop manual does not specify. Only "tech specs" is that they are installed with: lower ring "EK" is top, upper ring "Top" side on top (duh). Gaps are 180 opposites. Nothing about gap spec.
 
Can't find any TE specific measurements myself either....

The old-school rule of thumb of 0.004" per inch of bore works out to 0.016", or 0.41mm. (101mm bore = 3.9763 in)
Dunno how close that will be for high performance bike pistons....
 
oops Liner looks new. Heard they are tough. Could you just rering it or have to get the whole kit? Pull it yourself?
 
My manual says 0.6- 0.8 for piston clearance. I would assume this tolerance would also be for rings, considering comp ratio of 12:1
 
I had a proper Diamond hone and Brush out done at .. The Crankshaft Rebuilders in Blackburn.
Bore is so smooth and absolutely perfect. Just not to rough and to smooth.
New Piston with minimum tolerance from Woessner.

I also had the chance to make my own Crankshaft TDC stud ... with the Piston and barrel removed , you have a good look at the hole in the Crankshaft. First it looks like a Balance hole. But this hole lines up perfectly with the Bolt underneath.
Standard M8 Bolt , 50mm long . I tapered the Bolt on the front and Brushed the thread . This allowed me to insert the bolt with my bare fingers and feel the hole in the Crankshaft. Once the bolt is finger tight , your Crankshaft will ot turn anymore and is also in the perfect Spot for Camshaft Installation and Valve Clearance adjustment.

If you are not sure about the proper feel for the hole in the CC, you can also use a Phillips head # Screwdriver. round shaft. Insert and get a feel for the Center hole. Once you got that , you can remove the Screw driver and insert the Bolt...

So far , i reckon it is a good Engine. With the play i had in Piston and rings , i still had great Starting action and torque.

Cant Wait now to have it back together.

Tomorrow i need to adjust the valves. Need some Shims for that... Without these Shims i could be done by now.

Have a look at the Picture... more will follow.

piston rings.jpgTDC Installed.jpgTDC Stud.jpgShims.jpg
 
9880sts said:
I had a proper Diamond hone and Brush out done at .. The Crankshaft Rebuilders in Blackburn.
Bore is so smooth and absolutely perfect. Just not to rough and to smooth.
New Piston with minimum tolerance from Woessner.

I also had the chance to make my own Crankshaft TDC stud ... with the Piston and barrel removed , you have a good look at the hole in the Crankshaft. First it looks like a Balance hole. But this hole lines up perfectly with the Bolt underneath.
Standard M8 Bolt , 50mm long . I tapered the Bolt on the front and Brushed the thread . This allowed me to insert the bolt with my bare fingers and feel the hole in the Crankshaft. Once the bolt is finger tight , your Crankshaft will ot turn anymore and is also in the perfect Spot for Camshaft Installation and Valve Clearance adjustment.

If you are not sure about the proper feel for the hole in the CC, you can also use a Phillips head # Screwdriver. round shaft. Insert and get a feel for the Center hole. Once you got that , you can remove the Screw driver and insert the Bolt...

So far , i reckon it is a good Engine. With the play i had in Piston and rings , i still had great Starting action and torque.

Cant Wait now to have it back together.

Tomorrow i need to adjust the valves. Need some Shims for that... Without these Shims i could be done by now.

Have a look at the Picture... more will follow.

View attachment 42472View attachment 42473View attachment 42474View attachment 42475
Click to expand...

Helmut, that ring gap is massive! Looks good now though. :thumbsup:

thanks for posting the info on the TDC bolt, I'll whip one up at home for myself, Cheers.

Hope it's all back runing smooth real soon mate.
 
9880sts said:
I had a proper Diamond hone and Brush out done at .. The Crankshaft Rebuilders in Blackburn.
Bore is so smooth and absolutely perfect. Just not to rough and to smooth.
New Piston with minimum tolerance from Woessner.

I also had the chance to make my own Crankshaft TDC stud ... with the Piston and barrel removed , you have a good look at the hole in the Crankshaft. First it looks like a Balance hole. But this hole lines up perfectly with the Bolt underneath.
Standard M8 Bolt , 50mm long . I tapered the Bolt on the front and Brushed the thread . This allowed me to insert the bolt with my bare fingers and feel the hole in the Crankshaft. Once the bolt is finger tight , your Crankshaft will ot turn anymore and is also in the perfect Spot for Camshaft Installation and Valve Clearance adjustment.

If you are not sure about the proper feel for the hole in the CC, you can also use a Phillips head # Screwdriver. round shaft. Insert and get a feel for the Center hole. Once you got that , you can remove the Screw driver and insert the Bolt...

So far , i reckon it is a good Engine. With the play i had in Piston and rings , i still had great Starting action and torque.

Cant Wait now to have it back together.

Tomorrow i need to adjust the valves. Need some Shims for that... Without these Shims i could be done by now.

Have a look at the Picture... more will follow.

View attachment 42472View attachment 42473View attachment 42474View attachment 42475
Click to expand...
So, did you lose your shims?
 
When i disassembled , the shims fell out of its seat on the Intake side.
Thats why i set them with grease. You dont want them to fall into the Oil Gallery.

But the most annoying thing again are the DEALERS in AUSTRALIA. Once for Fuk sake again !!!
Selling those bikes and dont even have the Intake halround shims in Stock .. 2 in the Melbourne area.

So if you drop your bike off for Service, the chance they wont even touch your Intake is pretty big. Its a bit like..... oh well just enough gap there, so we want order the Shims in.....

I lost all my trust and faith in any Bikeshops here... My Branch manager got a Yamaha R1 .. and he's at the same point.

They only Employ Un qualified Guys. People who have never done a proper Apprentice ship as a Mechanic. And it doesent matter which Mechanic Apprentice ship as long there is some one who shows them the need of making it right and the details needed. Not to accept the saying " that will do "

If one of my Apprentices says that , he can walk. And one of them did.
 
Engine back together and running. Damn i could not believe how much Power loss i had...

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFJJbkYRGIw&feature=share


Have a look at the Mounting plate .. this plate came loos twice on my bike. Now with the ENgine out , i put Loctite on it...
Also a shot of the 449/511 Clutch .
one picture of the Gearshift Lever. Installed with a 10.9 bolt and 2 Washer as Spacer. With that Set up , the Lever wont come lose again.

Also Sparkplug after 3000 km.
Tomorrow ill go for a Ride.. cant Wait now !!!

ps: The Engine Rebuild at least Top end is not as bad as it sounds. With the M8 Bolt , you can easy center the Crankshaft.

Clutch 511.jpgGear shift lever 10.9 bolt..jpglower mount.jpgThhe plug new .old.jpg
 
That is not good for only 1800 miles?!

How the hell could that ring gap get that big!?!


Like....how could they wear that fast without scoring the liner?

I am hoping my bike will hit 10k without a teardown.....Might have to budget for some parts...
 
huskylove said:
That is not good for only 1800 miles?!

How the hell could that ring gap get that big!?!


Like....how could they wear that fast without scoring the liner?

I am hoping my bike will hit 10k without a teardown.....Might have to budget for some parts...
Click to expand...


Airfilter wasn't properly slide in.. Hot summer ride over 2 days..
 
Why does your bike shoot a foot long flame every rev?

Mine surely does not do that...even when it was stock in racemap II.....

Is that an overly rich then lean causing ignition in the exhaust?
 
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