• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

petcock for mid 70s gas tank

dumpbear

dumpbear

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hello everyone does anyone have a fix for a petcock with a broken barb end i have 3 that work fine except for the barb is broke on all of them I've never seen a replacement part for them.I wondered if anyone found something to replace it.Thanks for any help in advance.
 
well i got to diggin around looking for a hose barb for my karcoma petcock and i finally found them at Capital Cycle in Sterling VA they are for a BMW but they fit my husky just fine they just came in the mail today the price is 2.95 apiece and they have the rebuild kit for them too.I thought you guys would like to know it seems like all the ones you see on ebay have broken hose barbs.And Ron i did a pass along a guy at work needed a petcock for a tank he just bought for a 76 cr he's restoring now he has one! thanks again Ron.
Tompetcock barb.jpg
 
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Go to Capital Cycle and type in petcock the barb # is 16 121 233 366
the petcock rebuild kit # is 16 121 233 000Z
i don't know if the rebuild kit is for our huskys but for 10.95 you ain't out much let me know if it work's LOL I googled Karcoma petcock there were alot of places that sold rebuild kits i don't what they fit cause i was lookin for the barb and Capital Cycle was the only place i found them.Now i should go back and look up the rebuild kits i know i have at least one that weeps pretty bad.Good luck .Hey don't buy to many they will think they got a hot item and jack the price up:lol:
Tom
 
How do I disassemble the Karcoma petcock to rebuild it? I have the Capital City rebuild kit. I haven't figured out how to open the petcock. From my 1974 Husky 250CR. Attached pix *_2.jpg shows the view with the lever facing up.
Appreciate any help you might be able to offer.
 

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There's a snap type ring on it. That's a pain to remove but it's doable make sure you oil it all up when you put it back together.
 
Has anyone had success rebuilding these stock Karcoma petcocks? I purchased 3 rebuild kits a year ago from Bing Power Systems (they are a US Karcoma distributor) and the black rubber valve insert was to thick. I had to sand it thinner from 3.14mm to about 2.3mm to get it to work, it was a hassle. It required a bench vise to compress the valve assembly enough to get the ring clip into place.

This picture is what I bought from Bing Power Systems. Looks similar to the kit from Capital City.
 

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The first picture shows a socket where I cut a slot with a hacksaw for the lever to fit through. Works perfect. 1/2" I think. The second picture shows the kit I got from the Bing Agency in Kansas City; about $23 so the Capitol City kit sounds much better. You can see how much thicker the new gasket is, and when installed the lever is so hard to turn I think it might break. Bill, will oiling alone help this? Crash, how in the world did you sand it down? I bought some rubber coated gasket material to make my own, but I don't have a punch to knock out the holes. Maybe I can find one on eBay.
100_3351.JPG 100_3353.JPG
 
vintagecs said:
The first picture shows a socket where I cut a slot with a hacksaw for the lever to fit through. Works perfect. 1/2" I think. The second picture shows the kit I got from the Bing Agency in Kansas City; about $23 so the Capitol City kit sounds much better. You can see how much thicker the new gasket is, and when installed the lever is so hard to turn I think it might break. Bill, will oiling alone help this? Crash, how in the world did you sand it down? I bought some rubber coated gasket material to make my own, but I don't have a punch to knock out the holes. Maybe I can find one on eBay.
View attachment 47403 View attachment 47404
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I have the same rebuild kits from Bing also,I haven't rebuilt mine yet as they are still working but I always use some type of oil on new assemblys of rubber to metal.
I wonder about the thickness of the rubber washer.
Keep us posted how that works..
Good idea on the socket.
 
I will be doing the same thing.
Originally, I was going to buy just some, same thickness gas/chemical resistant rubber, then punch out holes with leather punch. Then use gas resistant washers/orings for thread joints. Then I saw these kits so ordered one to try.
Guess we will all get it figured out.
 
Hey vintagecs,
I sanded the rubber valve seat by pushing it back and forth over 320 wet and dry, it took half an hour. The process tore micro chunks of rubber from the holes making them somewhat like a crater, but enough area between the holes remained level. Bottom line was the valve didn't leak.

I called Charlie at the Bing Agency and ask about the excessive thickness and he told me I just needed to make a jig to squeeze the valve assembly together. I made the same tool as you did and used a bench vise as you did but without success. It wouldn't go together. Its apparent that no one at the Bing Agency uses this product.

I have two more kits and was considering making another valve seat thinner by sliding it around on a hot plate. I've melted the rough edges of rubber hose before using a soldering iron and had pretty good results. I'm still pondering this idea. :thinking:

In regards to the liquid rubber, is it thin enough to just pour into the valve body to the required depth?
 
Try this:
Get a washer with center hole same size as the outer rubber size. Washer should be thickness of what you want to make it.
Then outer washer will be your height to guide you. Use a new razor blade and using washer as guide to be level, you should be able to slice excess off like slicing bread with a guide. Put lil Wd40 on razor blade.
 
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