• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

PC V with Auto Tune = Holy Grail. for the 2008 & 2009 Husqvarna EFI bikes

Took her out for a 60 miler today, the longest single ride I've done so far. I hate to say it, but I'm about ready to give up on the autotune. At around 6k rpm the bike feels great, but below that I could tell something funky was going on. When I got home I hooked her up to the laptop and looked at what the autotune was trying to do. At higher rpms things looked fine. Add a little fuel here, take a little away there. Down lower it was still doing weird stuff. At the 15% throttle range there was one spot where it was trying to add 14% in one cell and take away 17% in the rpm cell below it! A few minus 10's and then some plus 8's. I zeroed the block of cells from about 3500rpm 10% to 5000rpm 60% throttle then accepted the rest of the changes. I was told the autotune was supposed to be the best thing since sliced bread but now I'm having my doubts. It may be time to suck it up and take it to EDR in portland and have a custom map made.
 
Has anyone done a comparison of the PC V/Autotune and the JD Jetting FI kit? I know the JD one will not create maps etc, but it is cheap and it works (I know-I have one)
 
seymore said:
It's been awhile since I looked at those values, but the adjustments were made while watching the real-time AFR value and making adjustment to get near 13.2-13.5. It's only going to be the first few cells in those columns since the RPM's won't very high for 0 & 2%. Any of the higher RPM's in lower throttle position will be during rapid deceleration. That where you can adjust for deceleration popping.
I have the AFR table loaded with 13.2 for the power map and 14.4 for better MPG.
Click to expand...

Do you add fuel for deceleration popping? Once you do this you will you need to disable auto tune?
 
Mine has some popping on decel, but I haven't addressed that yet. For any values you manually enter into a cell on your map you will want to disable auto tune (insert 0 value) for the corresponding cell on the auto tune "target AFR" portion. Otherwise, the auto tune will just over ride the values you put in.
 
I have the Bazzaz Z-Fi + Z-AFM which is their "Auto Fuel Map" on my GSXR 1000 and it works great. I've noticed the other day that they are now offering the Z-Fi MX for the Husky's. If they made it for my 2008 SM450R I'd buy it considering how much I love the one in my GSXR.
 
gixxer188 said:
I have the Bazzaz Z-Fi + Z-AFM which is their "Auto Fuel Map" on my GSXR 1000 and it works great. I've noticed the other day that they are now offering the Z-Fi MX for the Husky's. If they made it for my 2008 SM450R I'd buy it considering how much I love the one in my GSXR.
Click to expand...

They have a section for Husky but no products in it.
 
View attachment 10064View attachment 10064 I would like to share this with you all. I have a 2009 TE250, with an Athena 300kit and powercommander5 with auto tune. The dyno graph shows the B4 and after results off everything done. Im running the factory set map and the autotune is out off the box. It was running a bit lean down low (Hence the bit off hesitation) and needs a bit off time to remap.
 

Attachments

  • Photo0552.jpg
    Photo0552.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 38
  • P1020314.JPG
    P1020314.JPG
    162.8 KB · Views: 112
Tee-Dub said:
Took her out for a 60 miler today, the longest single ride I've done so far. I hate to say it, but I'm about ready to give up on the autotune. At around 6k rpm the bike feels great, but below that I could tell something funky was going on. When I got home I hooked her up to the laptop and looked at what the autotune was trying to do. At higher rpms things looked fine. Add a little fuel here, take a little away there. Down lower it was still doing weird stuff. At the 15% throttle range there was one spot where it was trying to add 14% in one cell and take away 17% in the rpm cell below it! A few minus 10's and then some plus 8's. I zeroed the block of cells from about 3500rpm 10% to 5000rpm 60% throttle then accepted the rest of the changes. I was told the autotune was supposed to be the best thing since sliced bread but now I'm having my doubts. It may be time to suck it up and take it to EDR in portland and have a custom map made.
Click to expand...

Power Commander is a pretty great unit. but really the fact of the matter a lot of times dealing with a single cylinder engine it is difficult to have a impact on such a narrow range of a specific rpm or tps range. like u are saying "14%@ 15%TPS or 17% to 10% @ whatever Rpm. the characteristics of a single are not the smoothest which makes it hard to make small changes such as this. don't get me wrong im sure a bunch of people have great running bikes with this set up, but lets sit back and think about what truly goes into getting a bike with this set up(PCV/AT $600) to really run optimally ? Dyno time with experienced tuner, $300-500 also a good amount of your own time goes into monitoring the set up yourself with a laptop. Really in my opinion this sounds like a lot of work,time,money for such a simple engine that many manufactures use carburetors on them just up to a few years ago, mainly went to fuel inj for EPA reasons. Now running the small piggybacks like the EHS,JD,Jardine these types of units work great for the money on a single. Anyone can use it with simple understanding of a carb. the install on one of these takes like 10mins, and it starts working and tuning right then anywhere and anytime with a push of a button. and for about $200 or so it should be pretty affordable to most. kinda a no brainer for adding more fuel for simple mods like pipe/air box mods... unless someone found a way to strap the husky with a supercharger/Turbocharger or a bunch of spray i really have no good reasons to suggest to any of my friends the waist there money on the PCV/AT. Holy Grail??? this just simply is not true.
 
Is there any way to datalog Autotunes AFR values?

I'm quite happy with results, except i had serious problems with low throttle%. Autotune was making 2% and 5% too lean and bike stalled very easily when taking off with slow revs. Zeroed 2% and 5% tables and turned autotune off from there so now it seems to be fine!

Wheelies @ 4th gear easily, last summer it was hard to get it up with 3rd gear even with clutch(well i'm not so good at it though:) )
 
Hi guy's, new to this forum but experienced with bike electrics, PCV and the lot.
For all who have issues with the autotune and PCV here is the following permanent solution.
What happens is that dynojet has been lazy and fitted the negative for the PCV and the negative from the sensors on the same wire to the negative on the battery.
Some bikes have this issue including the Husky (also R1 many others). You can check this easily by connecting you laptop to the PCV and iddle the bike. The TPS signal should be steady unless you actually move the throttle, on the husky it is not. Also have a look at the wiring diagram and the negative from the TPS and other sensor is NOT directly connected to the negative of the bike but to the ECU only.
Fix: Cut the black/ white wire going from the PCV to the negative of the battery, there are 2 wires in the little loom, don't cut the black just the black-white!
Now extend that wire all the way to the ecu follow the PCV harness to make it easier. Solder and heatshrink your connection etc...
Connect the extended wire to the black wire from the ECU with one of the left over wire taps in your autotune kit. The black wire is on the underside of the plug and disconnecting the plug makes it easier.
Refit everything and connect laptop and start the bike. Now you should have a rock steady TPS signal. Recalibrate the TPS signal and have another go at autotune. The results should be much better.
 
I have PCV with autotune on a 2010 txc250. 2 races ago bike ran great. Last time out not so great. Low RPMs it stumble and wasn't running very smooth and with the throttle opened up it would spit and sputter. Came home and hooked up the laptop and the only changes made by autotune were in the 80% throttle column. Some rpms changed 20%. This time out same thing, only changes were in the 80% throttle column. Around 3000 rpm as much as 20%.
Why are there only changes in the 80% throttle column?
 
If you run the bike with the laptop plugged in, does the display report the throttle position correctly? It could be reading the TPS wrong. Just a guess.
 
Recently purchased an '09 TE310 with PCV and AT... I'm a Mac user, what am I supposed to do in order to access the maps and computer GUI? Don't really want to by a windows machine, ewwwww.
 
michaelyogi said:
Recently purchased an '09 TE310 with PCV and AT... I'm a Mac user, what am I supposed to do in order to access the maps and computer GUI? Don't really want to by a windows machine, ewwwww.
Click to expand...
Unless I am mistaken, you need a windows machine. Not all software runs on a Mac. (I just transitioned to a Mac recently, so I do understand).
 
I changed the title of this thread to clarify that it was about the 2008 & 2009 Husqvarna EFI bikes. Dynojet / Power Commander V with Auto Tune worked REALLY well on the bikes I took to Dynojet Summer & fall of 2009, and experiments done locally on a 2008 TE (250?)

It is my understanding that the 2010 & newer bikes run much better, though obviously not perfect. And.... there are now other solutions besides Dynojet for the bikes, such as James Deans products in Washington state - though, to be honest, I have not kept up on how well any of these products work.

My goal in 2009 was to get at least a solution for the people who bought the 2008 & 2009 EFI Bikes cause they definitely needed a solution. Since it is now 2012, and the 2013 bikes are already announced, I will 'un-stick' this thread.
 
Just got my bike hooked up to a windows machine today... bike has been running hot and has a flame out when coming down to idle. Not a bad or even consistant flame out but it happens once in a while...
I zeroed out the trim map and I'll see what AutoT comes up with... When I get back onto a windows machine I'll check the Target AFR in the 0% and 2% column... lot of good info here...
Has anyone tried bikesparky's "negative wire fix" yet? Haven't looked at my TPS setting on the computer yet...
 
Ok, so I got back on to a Windows computer again and messed with the mapping again. I zeroed the 0% and 2% AFR columns first... I've had a bit of a flame out at idle. I then started the bike, let it warm up and adjusted the Fuel table at 0% and 2%... in order to get a 13.2 reading on the AFR at idle, I had to adjust the Fuel table to -24 on the 0% and 2% column. All the while having to adjust the idle after each change to the Fuel table... Remember to Send Map in order to affect changes to the tables. Just changing the values in the tables or columns does nothing until you Send Map to the bike. My bike now idles down just fine and seems to have more snap off idle now.
The other thing I did was to start mapping out a high MPG map... I do commute on my bike in the summer time. AFR table has been set to 13.8, Trim table zeroed, Fuel table zeroed (except 0%and 2% columns). This map is now being created while I commute this summer...
So, soon I hope to have some maps developed for mpg and power... Elevations for the MPG map- approx 1700' to 2200', ambient temps of 55-100F (24 hour temp range)... Power map- 2200' to 6000', ambient temps of 55- 90F (24 hour temp range)... Not sure if this info has much relevance with EFI... sure made a difference with with carbs... If nothing else it give you a starting point to work from...
The heat issue I talk of in the previous post seems to be related to my radiator braces... Enduro Engineering Braces seem to restrict air flow through the radiators... Still a working issue...
More later.
 
bikesparky said:
Hi guy's, new to this forum but experienced with bike electrics, PCV and the lot.
For all who have issues with the autotune and PCV here is the following permanent solution.
What happens is that dynojet has been lazy and fitted the negative for the PCV and the negative from the sensors on the same wire to the negative on the battery.
Some bikes have this issue including the Husky (also R1 many others). You can check this easily by connecting you laptop to the PCV and iddle the bike. The TPS signal should be steady unless you actually move the throttle, on the husky it is not. Also have a look at the wiring diagram and the negative from the TPS and other sensor is NOT directly connected to the negative of the bike but to the ECU only.
Fix: Cut the black/ white wire going from the PCV to the negative of the battery, there are 2 wires in the little loom, don't cut the black just the black-white!
Now extend that wire all the way to the ecu follow the PCV harness to make it easier. Solder and heatshrink your connection etc...
Connect the extended wire to the black wire from the ECU with one of the left over wire taps in your autotune kit. The black wire is on the underside of the plug and disconnecting the plug makes it easier.
Refit everything and connect laptop and start the bike. Now you should have a rock steady TPS signal. Recalibrate the TPS signal and have another go at autotune. The results should be much better.
Click to expand...

Great information! I was playing around with the TPS Calibration in the PCV Software today and noticed the erratic TPS voltage bouncing from .84 to around .88. Going to give this a shot tomorrow, thanks for the fix!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top