• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

PC V with Auto Tune = Holy Grail. for the 2008 & 2009 Husqvarna EFI bikes

Once connected and the bike is running I have a look at my instant AFR and it is locked in at 9.99 and does not fluctuate at all as is typical. Note that I have 13.2 dialed in as the target AFR. Even when I blip the throttle the PC is locked in at 9.99

Any ideas on what the issue might be?

Thanks Dan

If the Auto-tune module has power, the most common problem is that the CAN BUS termination plug is not installed on the unused CAN BUS port of the auto-tune module. Many time the rubber boot connector cover gets installed with the thought of sealing dirt & water. You need the termination plug installed!
 
With PCIII's I've had on other sportbikes I could set the TPS on the power commander with the ignition on but the motor off. I've noticed on my Husky I get no values for TPS unless the engine is actually running. How have you guys re-set the TPS on the PCV on your bikes? Is it ok to crack it to full throttle under no load while running to set the max TPS value?

One way to do the TPS cal; with the bike in neutral, slowly rotate the kick starter while performing the calibration. When the ECU detects any pulses from the crank position sensor, it activates the ignition power relay.
 
No kick starter on my bike. I re-set it just doing a quick spin to full throttle and it seemed to work fine.
 
If the Auto-tune module has power, the most common problem is that the CAN BUS termination plug is not installed on the unused CAN BUS port of the auto-tune module. Many time the rubber boot connector cover gets installed with the thought of sealing dirt & water. You need the termination plug installed!

CAN plug is in?
 
Don't forget that you can still make manually entered fuel adjustment values in the base map cells. Adjustments of base map cells that have corrisponding zero's in the AFR map cells, there will be NO auto tune adjustment.

I had to adjust the base map cells on my 08 TE450 in the 0% & 2% columns to get the idle AFR correct.

What do you adjust your base map cells to in the 0% and 2% columns? What AFR do you run for power? What AFR do you run for milage?
 
What do you adjust your base map cells to in the 0% and 2% columns? What AFR do you run for power? What AFR do you run for milage?
It's been awhile since I looked at those values, but the adjustments were made while watching the real-time AFR value and making adjustment to get near 13.2-13.5. It's only going to be the first few cells in those columns since the RPM's won't very high for 0 & 2%. Any of the higher RPM's in lower throttle position will be during rapid deceleration. That where you can adjust for deceleration popping.
I have the AFR table loaded with 13.2 for the power map and 14.4 for better MPG.
 
I noticed some 0 squares in fuel table at low rpm and i noticed afr is pretty fat at low rpm. Is there a reason for 0 squares or should i add 13,2 afr to them? I feel some stuttering 3000-3750.


Edit: no adjustment for 0 cells ok. How much i should take fuel out then ?
 
My bike is in "power up" mode and my dealer added about 15% at all 3 stock settings with the i-beat before I picked up the bike to go with the FMF pipe we did. Mine was idling so rich that I put in -17's down the 0 throttle category for the idle range of 1600-2000 rpm and it helped a lot. It starts better and doesn't die out nearly as much when blipping the throttle or coming down from high revs. My autotune is still trying to remove fuel at the 10% range though and I don't like it. Its down to -20 in a couple cells and I'm feeling some surging at cruise throttle inputs and 5-6k rpm. I may just keep riding it and see how it wants to adjust. If I don't like it I may add more fuel back in and disable the autotune from the 10% column too.
 
I noticed some 0 squares in fuel table at low rpm and i noticed afr is pretty fat at low rpm. Is there a reason for 0 squares or should i add 13,2 afr to them? I feel some stuttering 3000-3750.


Edit: no adjustment for 0 cells ok. How much i should take fuel out then ?
Ummm... the cells are like an excel spread sheet with rpm on one axis and throttle opening on the other axis. 0 in a cell means the Power Commander is not adding or subtracting anything. -10 takes 10% of the injector pulse width out at a particular cell, +10 adds 10% injector pulse width at a particular cell.

13.2 afr is what you would put in as a target afr for the autotuner module.
My bike is in "power up" mode and my dealer added about 15% at all 3 stock settings with the i-beat before I picked up the bike to go with the FMF pipe we did. Mine was idling so rich that I put in -17's down the 0 throttle category for the idle range of 1600-2000 rpm and it helped a lot. It starts better and doesn't die out nearly as much when blipping the throttle or coming down from high revs. My autotune is still trying to remove fuel at the 10% range though and I don't like it. Its down to -20 in a couple cells and I'm feeling some surging at cruise throttle inputs and 5-6k rpm. I may just keep riding it and see how it wants to adjust. If I don't like it I may add more fuel back in and disable the autotune from the 10% column too.
The system is fairly flexible, you can manually adjust the cells to your liking but if the autotuner is on and enabled those cells would be subject to change. But I believe that the autotuner is either on or off, and could not just disable it for one particular throttle opening.

Keep in mind that while the auto tuner is really nice, it is not perfect and all sorts of things will cause it to not work perfectly.
this is why a power commander with auto tune is a problem get rid of you auto tune and all will be good
Much can be learned with an autotune module.
 
My bike is in "power up" mode and my dealer added about 15% at all 3 stock settings with the i-beat before I picked up the bike to go with the FMF pipe we did. Mine was idling so rich that I put in -17's down the 0 throttle category for the idle range of 1600-2000 rpm and it helped a lot. It starts better and doesn't die out nearly as much when blipping the throttle or coming down from high revs. My autotune is still trying to remove fuel at the 10% range though and I don't like it. Its down to -20 in a couple cells and I'm feeling some surging at cruise throttle inputs and 5-6k rpm. I may just keep riding it and see how it wants to adjust. If I don't like it I may add more fuel back in and disable the autotune from the 10% column too.

Any chance you can get the bike connected to iBeat and reset the CO values back to 100%? I theory PCV should be able to offset the extra fuel, but there may be some real world issues that creates some odd behaviors.

When you say "-20%" are combine both values in the trim and base map?

I have found that the AT works great for creating a good base map, but can sometimes get confused under certain aggressive riding. I prefer to disable or remove the AT after you have a good base map. The "0" AFR values in the 0 & 2% is because AT can have problems getting solid AFR reading at low exhaust flows. The cells are better adjusted by manual enter values in the base map.

Also don't always assume all issue are from the PCV, it could be something a simple as a bad spark plug.
 
The system is fairly flexible, you can manually adjust the cells to your liking but if the autotuner is on and enabled those cells would be subject to change. But I believe that the autotuner is either on or off, and could not just disable it for one particular throttle opening.
You can go into the trim settings and set zeros to what ever throttle position you want and the autotune wont affect that column.
Any chance you can get the bike connected to iBeat and reset the CO values back to 100%? I theory PCV should be able to offset the extra fuel, but there may be some real world issues that creates some odd behaviors.

When you say "-20%" are combine both values in the trim and base map?

I have found that the AT works great for creating a good base map, but can sometimes get confused under certain aggressive riding. I prefer to disable or remove the AT after you have a good base map. The "0" AFR values in the 0 & 2% is because AT can have problems getting solid AFR reading at low exhaust flows. The cells are better adjusted by manual enter values in the base map.

Also don't always assume all issue are from the PCV, it could be something a simple as a bad spark plug.
The nearest dealer for me is a 2 hour round trip. The -20% is the total fuel its removing at a few rpm ranges for 10% throttle. That is after adding in the autotune trim from my last ride to what the base map was already taking out. I would like to get a good map set up, then remove the autotune module. While it is fun to play around with, I've debated on taking the bike to a shop with a dyno and just getting a custom map made. I will say, the bike seems to have great power when I'm hard on the gas, it just seems to be hunting around a little when cruising along at a steady speed/rpm.
 
You can go into the trim settings and set zeros to what ever throttle position you want and the autotune wont affect that column.
Interesting! I did not know that..

It has been a while since I've worked on an efi bike or autotune.. perhaps something in the newer models?
 
You can go into the trim settings and set zeros to what ever throttle position you want and the autotune wont affect that column.

I believe you meant to say that you can enter zeros into any throttle%/RPM cells in the AFR table and autotune will be disabled for those cells. If want to disable atuotune for a particular throttle percentage, you need to enter zero's in the whole column in the AFR table. This is what the default AFR map has in the 0% & 2% columns.

You can also override any of cells in the trim map by manually entering values and sending the table to the PCV. This change would continue to be modified if the corresponding cell in the AFR table is greater than zero.
 
I believe you meant to say that you can enter zeros into any throttle%/RPM cells in the AFR table and autotune will be disabled for those cells. If want to disable atuotune for a particular throttle percentage, you need to enter zero's in the whole column in the AFR table. This is what the default AFR map has in the 0% & 2% columns.
ummm....

I've been telling people to simply set the pcv map to all zeros and letting the autotune do its magic.. is that reasonable advice? I believe so.. but want to be sure.
 
You could, it would just possibly take longer to get the end result. I started with the base map the PCV comes with for the 510.
 
You can go into the trim settings and set zeros to what ever throttle position you want and the autotune wont affect that column.
The nearest dealer for me is a 2 hour round trip. The -20% is the total fuel its removing at a few rpm ranges for 10% throttle. That is after adding in the autotune trim from my last ride to what the base map was already taking out. I would like to get a good map set up, then remove the autotune module. While it is fun to play around with, I've debated on taking the bike to a shop with a dyno and just getting a custom map made. I will say, the bike seems to have great power when I'm hard on the gas, it just seems to be hunting around a little when cruising along at a steady speed/rpm.
Set the Autotune table to zero for 0-5% colums... it leans it out to the max for all of these values and makes the bike run hot.

I went in to my fuel map and added fuel across the board for 0% and 2% and left the stock mapping for 5%... runs great, I can pull the front up with throttle only in 3rd with 16/41(tall) gearing because it is so snappy. I added fuel at idle and off idle so it runs cooler at a traffic light only.
 
Here is the latest in my PC saga. So I connect the laptop into the PC-V & Autotune on my 2010 Husky TE-510 to have a look at the latest trim levels the autotune has generated and make sure everything is OK. The bike has been running fairly well, but I like to see what is going on.

Once connected and the bike is running I have a look at my instant AFR and it is locked in at 9.99 and does not fluctuate at all as is typical. Note that I have 13.2 dialed in as the target AFR. Even when I blip the throttle the PC is locked in at 9.99

Any ideas on what the issue might be?

Thanks Dan
Is it the delay before autotune kicks in? There is a setting where you can ignore values for a fixed time (to allow for warm up, etc.). I forgot about this and plugged in to mine last night for the first time in many months, saw 9.99 for the longest time and was all pissed off it wasn't working... then it finally started to kick out #'s after I was messing with the wiring. Turned it off and it did the same thing upon startup, then I remembered the delay. I had mine to 60 seconds, which is a long time if you think it should work right away.
doh.gif
 
Has anyone tried the LCD unit? Looks to be a better way to go than strapping a notebook to your handlebars (danbartol ;) ) and for the Husky would be like a new display.

I have a PCIII on my Aprilia SXV and if it is compatible with both the PCV and the PCIII I will buy one to use on both bikes. I can get a wideband O2 and do my own tuning with the display, but they have a different model listed for the PCIII and PCV... if one LCD unit could be used on both bikes I can justify the $$ to myself, but if it requires one for each then I won't.... any ideas or experience?

Edit: I'm referring to this:
http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/Products/LCDUnit/powercommander_lcd.aspx
lcd_200_coming_soon.jpg

lcd_on_sportbike_2_l.jpg
 
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